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Listmates:

I built two 21" auto racks.  I can get them to work everywhere except coming out of my yard.  I have switch that goes directly into an 0-72 curve, and there is just not enough lateral movement in the couplers.  I could unscrew one side and let the boxes turn too, but then I lose the automatic centering of the couplers.  Any ideas on other approaches.

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@davidbross posted:

Listmates:

I built two 21" auto racks.  I can get them to work everywhere except coming out of my yard.  I have switch that goes directly into an 0-72 curve, and there is just not enough lateral movement in the couplers.  I could unscrew one side and let the boxes turn too, but then I lose the automatic centering of the couplers.  Any ideas on other approaches.

In other words, you have an "S Curve".  That is NOT a good situation for long close coupled cars. One method of increasing the swing of a regular Kadee coupler assembly, is to cut-out the sides of the gear box. If that doesn't work, then you will probably have to resort to on of those special "long shank" Kadee couplers (check their website for different styles & lengths).

 I’d try modifying the boxes as mentioned. I found on my layout that was all Gargraves flex track. 21” cars had no problems negotiating even slightly tighter than 072 curves in a few spots. 072 was my minimum when it was built. The key was. The layout was built with easements into the curves. I’ve seen diagrams and formulas on how to do this. I just eyeballed them. The one spot that had an 072 curve coming off a straight portion. Instant derailment.

 Without knowing your track plan or if it;s ballasted. If modifying the boxes doesn’t work. You might be able to take out the 072 turnout and replace it with a #4. The curve won’t be so abrupt and you can maybe go slightly tighter with the curve using flex track  to get where your going.

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