Another family heirloom!! SG 402 Lionel!

unfortunately I will be getting my Uncle Jim's trains shortly. He passed away unexpectedly last month. Dad gave me his trains a while ago. I feel we hold these trains in trust, for the future generations. I'm unsure what will happen to mine (well I guess I am) as my two daughters have no interest in them. 

A great legacy to pass on.

Very nice!

It looks to me like the motor is there, minus the wheels.

If I was given a family treasure like that I would get it in running order, and replace missing pieces, but I would not repaint it. This of course, is just my opinion, it is up to you to decide such things.

The second motor is there the wheels are gone. Just missing some common trim, and a pilot. Have the wife check for any loose parts laying around and be sure to bring them home.

It's always bittersweet when these trains pass to the next generation. Sad that our loved ones are gone, but how great that you have these trains as permanent reminders of them.

quote:

Well, it needs all 8 wheels. They are crumbling. The insulation on the wires is all cracked. The motors aren't seized, so it should run with new wiring.

I would have been surprised if the remaining wheels were good, or if the insulation wasn't crumbling. You can get similar replacement wire to keep the look the same.
Please keep us posted on fixing it up.

Steaming Jon,

   Looks like a great pick up, have fun and pass them on to the next generation!

PCRR/Dave

you just can't beat the look of a vintage train...crumbling wheels and all.

I don't see how you can solder without burning the paint. My brother has a 402 with similar seams open. His is in otherwise excellent condition. He choose to leave it as it.

I have experimented with Zymol polish on some inexpensive metal trains. I don't think I'd use it on your loco because I don't think all the dirt / discoloration will come off, so to me, it wouldn't look right being shiny.

CW is right of course, soldering will bubble the paint.  But since all you have to do is tack it in place, sometimes a tiny burnt spot or two is acceptable, especially if there are already imperfections in the old finish. The two sides of the seam are already tinned with the old solder, so it is possible to do it applying the soldering iron from the inside so the repair is not a big blemish.

On the other hand, I got a Richart Olympian that had a similar split in the soldered seam, but the paint was like new and I didn't want to risk it.  A thin line of JB Weld applied along the seam with a toothpick and then clamped overnight seems to have solved the issue nicely without damaging the paint.

david

JB was what I was thinking too.

Nice!  It seems counter-intuitive, but when you have existing solder in the joint, you just need to melt it for an instant, and you don't really heat the tin up all that much.

Drive wheels are slightly problematic right now with the demise of MEW, who made the reproduction wheels.  But they do show up on eBay frequently.  Also try Hennings, they usually have some.

i also would avoid the wax, it doesn't improve things.  With tinplate, you either decide to completely refinish and get the shiny brand-new tinplate look, or clean up the original finish as best you can and run it as authentic collector's vintage. I would encourage the latter, this is a venerable old work horse. I've refinished tinplate, but not my family's heirlooms, they stay original.

david

didn't Hennings make a post in the last week about having O Gauge wheels for sale? maybe the Standard Gauge wheels won't be far behind.

George Tebolt train parts have wheels. SOldering parts like that with existing solder, place painted side on smooth wet material and will keep paint from burning with in reason since base of solder is already there