Bench-work Designs

Modular train tables are basically boxes that are connected together to form the layout surfaces.  The "boxes" do not have to be rectangular.  The boxes consist of a perimeter with internal cross members topped with a panel for rigidity.  Modules are connected together using one or more of the following:  clamps, bolts, or screws.  Legs are usually quickly removable.

People use modules for portable layouts that are moved and setup (possibly in a different arrangement and with other people modules) or that they are intended to be moved at a future date.  Portable modules usually strive for light weight and use modular plugs for wiring the sections together.  They also have adjustable feet for uneven floors.  They are complete with track and some scenery.

My round the room layout consists of 2' by x' modules bolted together.  I have added triangular modules to the inside corners for the large-radius curved track.  I ripped 3/5" oak plywood (try to avoid the stuff from HD or Lowes) into 6" wide strips for the outside and 1 1/2" for the internal cross members spaced every foot.  I added triangle blocks in the corners for rigidity and topped each module with Homasote.   Some people will use plywood and top it with Homasote, Sound Barrier, pink foam,...

You can search the forum for threads on modular clubs.  A check of their websites should give you the standards by which they build their modules.  This will give you ideas for your own.

Jan

I look at the problem as how to efficiently use deck material first. Then, perhaps consider the ability to reuse or reconfigure the sections or be able to relocate them.

4 sheets of 4 x 8 is the least expensive, but the most unwieldy.   

Cut those up into 4' x 4' squares and 2 - 2' x 6' keeps the efficiency of 4 sheets of ply, but adds more flexibility to reconfigure and are easier to handle.

Finally, 3' x 5' sections would use the most decking and take more time to make, but are close to a lot of modular specs . They would provide the best size pieces for handling, mobility and reconfiguration.

Carriage bolts can be used to attach everything, including legs. The framing and the deck would be screwed together. Wiring could use terminal blocks to help repurpose it after a teardown and reconfigure.

I don't think it's worth the effort to try and match the joints of the track at the ends of the sections.

Anyway, use the figures in SCARM to make shapes and color them. Then, decide what size puzzle piece suits what you want to do and move them around.

The smaller sections will require more framing cuts, screws, legs and hardware. But, you get flexibility for reuse and ease of handling.

Taking Carl's idea, I'd probably do something like this. It uses 4 sheets of plywood and only wastes a 2x4 piece. To provide for maximum reconfiguration possibilities, I'd consider splitting the 2x6 modules into three 2x4 modules and adding a fourth spare using the leftover 2x4 piece.