Cleaning the inside of O gauge tube track

I have boxes of the older tube track but the rust hurts the electrical conductivity-this includes Standard gauge. I asked a repairer/restorer what he does  and he told me that he sand blasts the ends.  But I don't have a sand blaster so I buy the new, cheaper kind.

Vinegar

I would think you only need to remove the rust from where the pins push in. Perhaps a small wire brush or something that dissolves rust on a pipe cleaner. I have used EvapoRust to successfully clean some old Marx track.

So far I don't have any continuity problems. Just lucky I guess. Just want to stop the rust. Good suggestions. I will give it a shot. Thanks guys.

I have used a rat tail file in a drill to clean out the inside ends of rusty track.  After I install the pins, I put a drop of 5W-20 motor oil on the pin and open end to prevent rust.  I also splay the pins so there is significant contact pressure between the pin and the open end of the mating section.  I presently have a floor layout with two loops.  The outer loop has 73 track sections, two of which are O-72 (711) switches.  There is only one feed.  I am running conventional.  The voltage drop at the far end from the transformer with a Rail King 2-8-8-2 USRA model is only 0.3 volts.  This is the difference of the voltage when the loco is near the transformer and when it is at the far end of the loop.  The inner loop has 92 track sections and six O-72 switches.  I run a Alco diesel on it.  I run conventional.  There is no perceptible slowing down of either engine.  It takes a little time to prepare the track, but I don't have to run wires all over the layout and the track sections stay together.  The floor is smooth concrete.  I have the switches wired together in pairs and do supply 20 volts from the ZW to the constant voltage plugs.  I am going to add some more switches and inner loops tomorrow.  If you have track that has clean pins and the open end of the rails are not rusty, you can just splay the pins to make a tight joint.  Lionel's recommended method of squeezing the open end of the rail to make the pin fit tight doesn't work.  Once I splay the pins on a track section, I can take it apart and put it together again without doing anything to it.  

Evaporust. Muratic acid. Vinigar. All will remove rust you can't see.

Rinsing well for neutralising is important. So is fast and full drying. A coat of oil works wonders for protection, but takes time to migrate and drip off, then clean up topside where trace oil is good, but traction suffers with too much at the tread. Some dry lube, wax, fire arm, and other protectectant sprays would work well for inner protection too.

  For all the effort, time, and supplies, new Menards tube track for under $3ea should be appealing. Spray protection into that, use some electric grease on pins, and laugh for decades about how much better things run on new track.

For cleaning tube ends dry, I wonder about a single strand from a "plastic" wire abrasive wheel? Stick it in a drill?

Having sold cleaning compounds and industrial chemicals I have tried most methods of cleaning. That is why I spent my $$ on new plus I like the long lengths they have now plus the various radius of curved track available. Cleaning track is messy and takes time. I am old school-to a point.

I spent a nice warm sunny day in my yard cleaning track. (not now)

First I powered washed all the grime off just the tops not forcing water into bottom of track , trapping water. Let dry in sun.

Then I used wire brush, copper wire pad and abrasive pad to clean tops and sides and pins. Also crimp ends with a pair of side cutters. Wear gloves and old cloths this is a dirty job.

After getting cleaned I wiped track down with WD-40 and dry with clean cloth, all set.

franktrain

Thanks guys for the help!

Hey Guys

I am a newby at this forum thing and how do you reply to individual people? WD 40 on tracks and spinning my wheels as a joke.

Servoguy, how are you splaying the pins?

Here's a link to harbor freight tools they have small brushs that would aid in cleaning the inside of tubular track. 

tube brush 

franktrain

Hey great idea Frank. Best one yet. So much old track that is usable and is thrown away. Plus I am cheap.

New Question Guys

Have a 8305 Milwaukee road engine 70's  o gauge and for the longest time it would run itself continously until it threw itself off the track by running to fast( my fault, a little "Adams family") or pull 7 passenger cars. No problem. Ran fine after derailment. Now, the engine gets extremly hot and nearly stops after running about 1/2 hour. Pulling 4 plastic passenger cars.  Thought that the brushes were worn but they were not. Found that the conotater was dirty and may be covered with smoke liquid, was a little greasy. Cleaned it. Found that the horseshoe that the conotator set in was really greasy. Cleaned it with alcohol and cue tip till the cue tip came out clean. Cleaned copper plate with sandpaper and pickups for good connection. After all this it still does the same thing slows down. Does this mean that I need to rewire the whole engine? Oh boy!

trainut posted:

Hey Guys

I am a newby at this forum thing and how do you reply to individual people? WD 40 on tracks and spinning my wheels as a joke.

In the specific post, Click on "Take Action," and, when the menu drops down, click on "Reply with Quote."

servoguy1 posted:

I have used a rat tail file in a drill to clean out the inside ends of rusty track.  After I install the pins, I put a drop of 5W-20 motor oil on the pin and open end to prevent rust.  I also splay the pins so there is significant contact pressure between the pin and the open end of the mating section.  I presently have a floor layout with two loops.  The outer loop has 73 track sections, two of which are O-72 (711) switches.  There is only one feed.  I am running conventional.  The voltage drop at the far end from the transformer with a Rail King 2-8-8-2 USRA model is only 0.3 volts.  This is the difference of the voltage when the loco is near the transformer and when it is at the far end of the loop.  The inner loop has 92 track sections and six O-72 switches.  I run a Alco diesel on it.  I run conventional.  There is no perceptible slowing down of either engine.  It takes a little time to prepare the track, but I don't have to run wires all over the layout and the track sections stay together.  The floor is smooth concrete.  I have the switches wired together in pairs and do supply 20 volts from the ZW to the constant voltage plugs.  I am going to add some more switches and inner loops tomorrow.  If you have track that has clean pins and the open end of the rails are not rusty, you can just splay the pins to make a tight joint.  Lionel's recommended method of squeezing the open end of the rail to make the pin fit tight doesn't work.  Once I splay the pins on a track section, I can take it apart and put it together again without doing anything to it.  

How are you splaying the pins?

jim pastorius posted:

I have boxes of the older tube track but the rust hurts the electrical conductivity-this includes Standard gauge. I asked a repairer/restorer what he does  and he told me that he sand blasts the ends.  But I don't have a sand blaster so I buy the new, cheaper kind.

Thanks Jim , I don't have one either but will keep the info for latter use.

Adriatic posted:

Evaporust. Muratic acid. Vinigar. All will remove rust you can't see.

Rinsing well for neutralising is important. So is fast and full drying. A coat of oil works wonders for protection, but takes time to migrate and drip off, then clean up topside where trace oil is good, but traction suffers with too much at the tread. Some dry lube, wax, fire arm, and other protectectant sprays would work well for inner protection too.

  For all the effort, time, and supplies, new Menards tube track for under $3ea should be appealing. Spray protection into that, use some electric grease on pins, and laugh for decades about how much better things run on new track.

For cleaning tube ends dry, I wonder about a single strand from a "plastic" wire abrasive wheel? Stick it in a drill?

Adriatic thank you and I can use the vinager, nothing like good old pickles.

Scotie posted:

I would think you only need to remove the rust from where the pins push in. Perhaps a small wire brush or something that dissolves rust on a pipe cleaner. I have used EvapoRust to successfully clean some old Marx track.

Thanks Scotty, what is evaporust?

franktrain posted:

Here's a link to harbor freight tools they have small brushs that would aid in cleaning the inside of tubular track. 

tube brush 

franktrain

Thanks Frank best one so far and I will use it with the other ideas from other people.

palallin posted:

trainut posted:

Hey Guys

I am a newby at this forum thing and how do you reply to individual people? WD 40 on tracks and spinning my wheels as a joke.

In the specific post, Click on "Take Action," and, when the menu drops down, click on "Reply with Quote."

Thanks palallin, as you can see I have taken your advice and it works!

Arthur P. Bloom posted:

Vinegar

Thank Arthur, knew ispelled vinager wrong.

    I'm a touch on the frugal side too, to put it mildly. When track was about $4.50 a pop when I shopped ten years ago, I was looking for used to clean. But it is dirt cheap right now. I don't see it getting any cheaper than it is, and I'm not exaggerating about the running being better on new rails. You have to try it out to really understand. 1-36" straight track mixed in with old track would convince you though. That's what it took for me to notice. I see it as $60 new, -10 in cleaning supplies, -10 for agrivation, -30 in work = only $10 for new vs free old...sold, lol.

But not to rabidly discourage ..

 More often than not drying in the sun isn't fast enough in Michigan; you'd have a yellow haze in no time. The pins being out is a must, and lots of shaking the water out; a few times too. That's to start. The hair dryer, heat gun, torch, and the oven have all been well used here.

  Water Dispersing Formula #40 isn't a bad idea at all, to but not as a long term protection without reapplication...or as an oil substitute. I like heat better, it works very well, very fast, very thoroughly.

 Dry lube waxes go on thin & wet, dry fast, and stay put. Boeing T-9 can't really be beat. Getting it on the rails you'll know, lol. It makes graphite seem like sand on a rail but is the best long term protection I know of, drying to a super thin wax, and its still a long term penetrant and can take heat well. Made for aeroplane use to stop ice formations and lube the flaps, etc. The ice can't grip and falls off. Not cheap, neither is gold, a little goes a long way

  Any more, I'd be inclined to wire brush the tread and inner flange quickly, solder, then oil, & clean excess from the tread, running a bus &  drop wires on the bottoms of every 2cnd or 3rd track, and hardwire any others as needed over time. Soldering beats buying 4- 12 lock ons and is easier on a bench with a pile.. Think of the extra power you can put in the curves .

  While you do all this, look for hollow pins, they have a seam. Toss them and use solid ones, especially on the center rail. They rust from the inside out and the thin metal doesn't carry amperage well if there is rust. You'll know them when you grab them with pliers as they collapse too. Black tie and brown tie got them, but mostly brown tie. Rinsing these pins after a soak would be impossible.  Anything corrosive inside, trapped. Drying, very hard; and a weak link from the get-go.

A close tool relation to side snips, end cutters can sometimes have the blades flattened and still close fully. A pair of those is the best thing outside of the pro track tool with the notch crimp. I have a mini pair, and they are awesome. Another big pair I keep semi sharp, for literally pulling, and stretching the metal around a pin as it closes, and at the same time closing the web with the little ones held 180° apart.

  With all of that track we all seem to aquire, you might try home bending something smaller than 027 just for a trolley or 0-4-0, etc. Home benders are kinda easy to make.

Evanorust is a rust removing thin liquid. Works great on old track and etc and usually doesn't harm the paint remaining. I did discover yesterday that it will however remove the "black coating" that Lionel used on the O-27 uncoupling sections (and I imagine elsewhere it was used). One of the nice things about Evaporust is it can be poured back into the bottle and reused as long as its not too dirty.

My local Ace ordered it for me.