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Created this Temporary 7x8 Fastrack Layout and ran into some questions....

PRR2818PRR2818OGR Forum Member MEMORIALIZED MEMBER

Was getting tired of waiting for me to get around to starting the benchwork for my first layout due to my grandson visiting and I wanted to run some trains. Well made some sacrifices to get this done with the track I have without going out and buying anything else. Attached is a bmp and the rrt file.

 

I am running this using my CAB2 and a LionChief Plus Engine along with my conventional engines.

 

I only wired the 8 switches on the two loops at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions on the diagram initially that will allow access from the outer to inner loops and will do the other switches later.

 

I wired the 8 switches using 4 remote controls by running the entry and exit in pairs. So, both top two switches on the left as an example. Works electrically great but.. for some reason either the switches I thought were a problem as it seemed that the switch would change state in the middle of consist, instant derail and short.

 

I then removed all power to those switches by cutting the control leads, and it would still happen, thereby eliminating the electrical even when running just on the outer loop I would still get the derail with a car trying to change to the turnout.

 

All my cars are original and was wondering, could the cars have coupler problems or be too light as certain cars will also derail on the O36 curves in the middle of the consist also.

 

My next thoughts are to add weights to the cars, forget the recommended weight, and then try running again.

 

The is to take a closer look at those O36 Remote switches as they seem to work ok but some were used..

 

Also, I am using a CW-80 Transformer set at full throttle, approx. 16.8 vac, and noticed what seemed to be arcing when switching from the Outside Loop to the inside in the area between the two switches. Any thoughts?

 

I didn't isolate any of the switches into any power districts or blocks as I just wanted to get it up and running.

 

So, any thoughts or help would be appreciated.

 

Thank you in advance!

 

So, 

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M MoonmanOGR Forum Member

Hi PRR2818,

First the FasTrack switches...They draw very little power and operate best when powered from track power.

Combining the switch control wires is not a problem. Just use only one yellow wire for the controller light. Tape the other one to prevent shorts.Obviously, make sure the Turn out is connected with the turnout on both switches. They do get flipped over when you use a crossover. THRU IS CLOSEST TO THE TWO TRACK END. Then GND, then OUT and RSC light wire is closest to the straight end.

 

if you do isolate the inner loop, I would put a 1 3/8 with the jumper removed between the switches. That should cause you adjust a few areas on the inner loop.

Diagram attached

 

I would suspect the arcing and switch movement to be from truck clearances. You have to get down to track level and view each engine and car rolling through the crossover. Something with axle or wheels is contact both center and outside to cause an arc or short. It could be related to the derail on the curve car.

 

The derail on the curve car may be something that is stopping the truck from rotating. If it is hitting a ladder or the edge of the car, that would cause it to derail. Perhaps the center mounting rivet is loose or the screw hole or bushing is worn. Depends on what make and how the truck is mounted.

 

So, this lack of rotation may also be the car causing the issue in the crossover.

 

Run it trial and error. Engine through both crossovers, both directions. OK>yes>add a car and so on NOT OK>engine is problem  FIRST CAR OK>next car FIRST CARNOT OK> check that car...you get the idea.

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PRR2818PRR2818OGR Forum Member MEMORIALIZED MEMBER
Originally Posted by Moonman:

Hi PRR2818,

First the FasTrack switches...They draw very little power and operate best when powered from track power.

 

I would rather use a separate power supply for the switches later on just have not done it for the temp layout. Since I will be using the remote controllers, the CAB-2 via a SC-2 and will also be doing conventional. The kids like throwing the switches manually and since I haven't got the a CAB-1L yet as I do not want them using the CAB-2 until they are much older or I get a backup.

 

Combining the switch control wires is not a problem. Just use only one yellow wire for the controller light. Tape the other one to prevent shorts.Obviously, make sure the Turn out is connected with the turnout on both switches. They do get flipped over when you use a crossover. THRU IS CLOSEST TO THE TWO TRACK END. Then GND, then OUT and RSC light wire is closest to the straight end.

 

Moonman, I enclosed how I wired the switches, could you confirm that this is correct or incorrect via you note above? Plus, why am I disconnecting the second yellow wire for the switch light?

 

if you do isolate the inner loop, I would put a 1 3/8 with the jumper removed between the switches. That should cause you adjust a few areas on the inner loop.

Diagram attached

 

I would suspect the arcing and switch movement to be from truck clearances. You have to get down to track level and view each engine and car rolling through the crossover. Something with axle or wheels is contact both center and outside to cause an arc or short. It could be related to the derail on the curve car.

 

These were all new cars right out of the box and since the engines made it thru each time with a problem, I will check them one at a time to see if the coupler is doing a full swing and the trucks swing freely also.

 

The derail on the curve car may be something that is stopping the truck from rotating. If it is hitting a ladder or the edge of the car, that would cause it to derail. Perhaps the center mounting rivet is loose or the screw hole or bushing is worn. Depends on what make and how the truck is mounted.

 

So, this lack of rotation may also be the car causing the issue in the crossover.

 

Run it trial and error. Engine through both crossovers, both directions. OK>yes>add a car and so on NOT OK>engine is problem  FIRST CAR OK>next car FIRST CARNOT OK> check that car...you get the idea.

 Thanks again in advance...

 

PS since I found a bunch of 1/4 O36 Curves I may and try and throw in a WYE so that I can turn the engines around since I do not have room for two reversing loops.

 

 

Two_Fastrack_Switches_wired_to_1_Controller

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Last edited by PRR2818
M MoonmanOGR Forum Member

Do as you will with the separate power to the switches, but it is extra wiring and such that is just not needed , especially when running command. No advantage is gained, only more possible problems.

 

The yellow wire from the switch supplies voltage for the light in the controller. Two wires just aren't needed. A couple of volts is volts. The rest of the wiring looks fine.

 

I am not sure what to say about the cars and such causing arcing. Check the non-Lionel items.

 

A 3 036 switch wye needs a 28 5/8" straight. That'll take some thinking on how to get one in that layout.

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