DCS Signal and toggle switches

Mike
I wouldn't recommend any power wires going through toggle switches  Have the toggle operate a relay which is at the location of the power drop.  Like this

Mike,

First, find out for sure if the toggle switches are the actual problem:

•  Start a stationary engine doing a signal test on toggled siding.
• Then, while the test is running, use a piece of wire (perhaps with alligator clips on each end) to jumper the switch contacts.
• If it's a DP switch, you'll need  to first jumper each leg separately and then both together.
• See if the signal strength changes when you jumper either leg separately, or both together.

If jumpering improves the signal strength, replace the switch. I have some 90+ toggles in service and all work just fine. There's no need to go to the added expense and labor of relays if you use a decent switch.

Barry,

Thanks for the post.  I have in fact tested the toggles as you suggested, and they are the problem.  What toggle do you use--mfgr? type? cost?  I must have the low end of the spectrum.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

What toggle do you use--mfgr?

Well, I use mainly (about 90%) Radio Shack SPST or DPST toggles. Yes, the oft-maligned, dreaded Radio Shack toggle switch.  

They're rated for about 4 amps @ 125 volts and run about $2.50 each or a bit less in an assortment pack of 2 SPST and 1 SPDT switches.

The other 10% of the toggles I use are surplus from a local outfit called Skycraft Surplus. They are used, loosen a bin and unrated.

Regardless, the only issue that I've ever had as regards a DCS signal degradation was with one of the surplus toggles and never with one of the Radio Shack toggles. So, that's a 100% success rate with the Radio Shack toggles in that regard. I may also have replaced 1 or maybe 2 RS toggles because a wire tab broke off, generally due to mishandling during the installation process by yours truly. While these switches are by by no means the best you can buy, I find them to be adequate to the task at hand, easy to get locally and reasonably priced.

My toggles are all used on sidings and probably handle no more than about 4 amps or so. That would be a pair of PS2 diesels or electrics that are lashed up, or a single diesel or electric with half a dozen passenger cars.

We use toggles on all our tracks in the two freight yards and the coach yard without any problems with the DCS or TMCC signals.  They all toggle track current; no relays are used.  They are big and rated for lotsofamps at 125v so work great with the 18v current.

I use relays so I can control the power via the AIU.  That's kinda fun.  Eventually, I'll wire in the lighting and everything :-)

Mike

We set our TIUs up so the fixed channels power the two main lines and the aux channels turn the yards and sidings on and off via the DCS remote.  Toggle switches turn of subsections of that, so having another way of doing that would be cool!

i use 10 amp relays from Mouser.  The coil draws 80 milli-amps, which isn't bad. I think the coils are 12VAC, but I run them with 14 VAC and don't seem to have a problem.

However, i wire the relay such that tracks I usually want on are through the normally closed contacts of the relay, and sidings that I normally want off, through the normally open.  This means to turn off some tracks, I have to select "ON" in the AIU, but I label the ACC carefully so it's obvious that ON means OFF :-)

I wire the coil to the normally open side of the AIU.

This way, the "default state" of the track uses no power to the coils of the relays.

Mike

bluelinec,broskowitz,kerrigan,porter, et. al.,

Many thanks for your expert suggestions on the DCS signal and toggle switches.  You have provided many methods to pursue, and I feel confident of a solution on my pike. As this is my first post, on the Forum, I am very impressed with the quality and timeliness of the responses, and will be a regular from now on! 

Mike Hartings

I use AIU ACC ports without any problem. I do fuse the main power feeding the AIU inputs with 5AMP AGC fast blow. Only problem someone might have is with a long line of passenger cars exceeding the 5 A limitation (points burning). Mine are only 5 cars long and have no problem. Two years now and never had either a siding or main line ( which I do all the same way), fail or cause a problem.

Have replaced any number of fuses because of derailments. Fuse is right at  control panel so no problem.

Hi to bluelinec, make sure you keep bobbyb busy on those switch wiring projects!