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Hi - this must have been asked, but when I try to search on the topic I get O gauge stuff.  I have 2 styles of AF switch, one has the notch between the turnout and the main line.  Then there are 2 types of controller, the one with the 4 round lights that latch nicely up and down, then a very light plastic "more modern" style that doesn't use big lights and doesn't latch.  Are the switches and controllers all compatible?  If not, Mr. Gilbert should be dug up and hung ....    

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Actually there are three types of switches with different controllers. The early 720 which has the notch between the turning rails. This uses a 4 bulb controller where the lever stays in the position thrown and does not return to center. Next would be the 720A which improved on the 720, and removed the manual slide and closed the gap between the turning rails and added two train control. These use the 4 bulb controller where the lever returns to the center position after the switch is thrown. The third is a pike master switch. This switch uses the cheap bulbless controller with nubby plastic handles. On rare occasion Gilbert included the cheap bulbless control in with the later 5 digit versions of the 720A switches.

Tin

NO!!!! Incorrect information! Excluding Pikemaster switches, which look like HO gauge switches, there are three major versions of S switches. There are two versions of the 720 (the one described as having a notch between tracks), the early version uses the 4 light controller with levers that throw from side to side and do not return to center. This switch has a special internal connection that disconnects the coils when the switch is thrown. Trouble is, if the switch doesn't throw completely, it ends up with no connection to either coil and you have to manually finish throwing the switch. This was a real problem, so the second switch controller was developed, the one where the levers stay centered. With the new controller, the internal coil cut-off switch was eliminated. Using the early controller with any other switch than the early 720 will burn out the switch coils. The centered controller only send power to the coil while the lever is thrown. The centered-lever controller can be used with the late 720 and the 720A switches. It will also work on the early 720s. About 1957 ACG cut costs again and eliminated the light bulbs and used plastic handles. While these work, I've never liked them. Piekmaster switches use a little box, one for each swtich with push buttons, and only three wires to the switch..

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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