How to reattach this support in 3rd Rail Tender

Depending on how much is visible from the outside, you could install small brass screws (090, or 080) and then either solder to them, or use J-B Weld.

It's right on the side of the tender, no chance of using screws here.  I guess it'll probably be JB-Weld, I haven't thought of a better option.

I'm not sure here, but Hot Water might have been talking about soldering (or using nuts?) the screws on somewhere that wouldn't show to add more support for the JB-Weld to hold on to? If that would even be a possibility? I can't really think of anything else that might work?

Yep, but since this was soldered (not very well) to the side of the tender, there's no real place to put screws that wouldn't be pretty obvious.  I suspect roughing up the surface and clamping it with JB-Weld along the seam will probably be better than the original bond.

I thought that might be the case. I suspect a rough surface would help, all I can say is good luck and I hope it works. 

My standard line to the boss at work when something had a problem after I had gone home or moved on to something else was "It was working when we left". Learned that from an old timer when I was just getting started. Certainly glad I am now retired!!  This might come in handy for warranty on this one! 

Can't tell much about it, and I don't have the loco, but the epoxy does seem to be the best way to go. Soldering is always more desirable, theoretically, but in the real world, dealing with a painted loco, and considering most peoples' soldering skill levels (mine are of the "electrical stuff" level, where looks are hidden under shrink tubing...), it's always an adventure.

Epoxy is not as strong as solder - but - it will do the same job if you can get decent contact area.

3rd Rail - have a few; 'ya never know what's coming out of the box...I tend to avoid. But their PRR streamlined Q1 cousin of the Q2 does talk to me.  

John, can you post a pic of how this attaches to tender body or frame. It may be possible to solder to the other piece and not destroy its paint. The part pictured appears to already have paint damage.

Pete

John I have had some good results  using a paste solder . with the heat being applied to the loose part and a damp cloth applied to the outside [ in your case the outside of the tender]  paste solder melts pretty quick , It just might do the job. Best of  luck

Franky-Ogee

The part pictured is the inside rail that was soldered to the side of the tender. It was an inside part, so paint isn't a factor, I don't care what it looks like.

It was soldered to the side of the tender, the other side is, of course, painted.  I didn't want to risk enough heat to solder, so I passed on that option.  I scored both mating surfaces with my Dremel to give the adhesive a better bonding surface.  I then mixed up some JB-Weld and spread it along the entire length.  The whole thing is clamped with boards to old it true and in contact all the way.  I suspect it should be stronger than the other side with the three little solder spots.  I'm not impressed with how they put this one together.

Usually an advocate of Do-It-Yourself, I would certainly use the warrantee and ship it back to them with a list of all the defects you've found.  I presume that this model cost a pretty penny and it would be a shame to have it be money wasted.

Well, since this was purchased in the late 90's by the client, I think it's a little past the time I can send it back for warranty replacement!

Problem solved, the JB-Weld cured overnight and that sucker is in there for good, I don't think I could get it out if I wanted to!  I hope the alignment is perfect, because that's where it's staying!

Thanks for writing up the issue and solution!

JW-Weld, the wonder adhesive!