No Sound on a PS1 Engine

Just to be clear, this engine runs, and there are sounds, just not chuff?  How about whistle and bell, can you get PFA sounds? 

You may want to try setting the chuff with Feature 27, though a reset 18 should have put everything back to default settings.  G

Feature 27 solved the problem.  I thought that feature 18, a factory reset, would do everything, but I was wrong.  For the record, everything worked on the engine.  It just didn't have a chuff while moving.  Thank you for the reply.  Ted

This is the second time I have seen a post on chuff not reset by feature 18, even though the manual says it should be.  Glad it worked for you.  G

I had one that had the same issue, reset-18 didn't fix it but reset-27 made the chuff come back.

How do you do a reset?

Look in the manual.  From a manual for a PS1 locomotive, you should find the same instructions in any manual.

ProtoSounds™ is equipped with a microprocessor, that, depending on the amount of
memory it is allotted, allows the user to utilize several remotely activated functions. In the
simplest terms, ProtoSounds™ has its own “Computer" controlling these functions. In fact,
the power of this microprocessor is the same as that of a 286 desktop computer! In order to
access many of these remotely controlled functions, the user must be in the RESET state to do
so. RESET is entered anytime power to the locomotive has been off for more than 3-5
seconds. When the engine first enters RESET, the microprocessor initiates a system check to
determine if the system, transformer and engine are operating correctly. This takes
approximately 2.2 seconds during which you will hear the engine’s air compressor start up.

In order for ProtoSounds to properly initiate the system check, do not advance the
transformer throttle past 10 volts when you first enter RESET, then wait for the steam
compressor pumps to begin before slowly turning the throttle to the off position and then
back on again to enter the Forward phase. If you enter RESET at too high a voltage, interrupt
the power too soon, or move the throttle too quickly to the off position, the system may reenter
RESET (signaled by two dings of the bell). Should this happen, wait longer before interrupting
the power to enter the Forward phase.

ProtoSounds™ comes with several programmable functions including; remote steam
chuffing volume adjustment, separate bell button operation, remotely activated Proto-
Coupler, Whistle in neutral operation, enhanced neutral steam sounds, squealing brakes
and passenger station announcement sounds. Each of these features are described in more
detail later and all can be remotely activated from any compatible standard AC transformer
with a whistle button (See the chart on page 25). (Additional features will be available at
additional prices from MTH ProtoSound Electronics) You will notice that when in RESET, your
engine will not respond to the whistle button with a whistle blast or continuous bell ringing. In
fact, when in RESET and the whistle button is depressed, only one single bell chime will be
heard each time the button is pressed. This is because the computer is awaiting
programming instructions from one of the many RESET settings. If you don’t wish to
configure ProtoSounds using any of the programmable features, simply leave RESET at this
time by interrupting the power to put the engine in forward. After you leave RESET, your
engine will operate normally in all the direction states of forward, neutral and reverse.
Remember, though, once power is turned off for more than 3 seconds, the next time power is
applied to the track, your engine will be back in RESET.

As a follw-up to the original post another PS-1 steamer would not render the "standard" clinks/clanks when attempting to do any of the resets as outlined in the operators manual. Replaced the standard MTH battery with a Duracel alkalin to see if the battery was causing an issue with the reset procedure but that didn't help.

Any ideas ?

Edit: It gave no "clink/clank" feedback, just for clarification.

What model number?  Even with a weak battery you should be able to move through the features since track voltage doesn't go to zero.  You are just going from high voltage to medium voltage.

Does the engine run at all?  Do you get get one clink, and nothing else?

Sounds like a memory glitch, or a hardware fault.  My experience has been that correctable software/memory issues occur about 10 times more often then a hardware fault, and the hardware fault has been caused my other issues like bad motors, faulty owner installation, etc...  G

Not sure of the model #, maybe Ted has it, but this is an early Cab forward that has seen a lot of track time with the our Kid's Club.

We were using a Z-4000 w/the program feature to do some resets, primarily #18 and #27. When you select the reset to be done you can see and hear the Z doing it's thing but when it gets to the selected # you don't get any confirming clinks & clanks. The engine does run, only had a short test track, but there is no chuff however you do get start-up sounds etc.

Try a reset manually.  When first applying power raise the voltage up to 16-18V.  Then move throttle down to 10-12V and back to 16 once and stop.  Do you get one clink?  Repeat and see if you get 2 clinks.  If so, continue to 18.

I have seen Z miss fire on the programming.

Can you arm an fire a coupler?

I have never experienced an engine that runs fine, but can't get clinks and clanks, but since the systme has to measure the high to low voltage change it is certainly a possibility you have a hardware fault.  Interesting problem.  G

The model is 20-3125-1.  Doug and I worked on two Cab Forward engines.  The first one was cleared with the #27 reset.  As Doug stated, the second one will not give any clinks or clanks using the Z-4000.  I just tried it with my KW and heard clanks.  I changed back to the Z-4000 and did a reset using the handle (hearing clinks and clanks) instead of the program button.  I did a reset 18 and a 27 but still no sound while moving.  For the record, I tried raising the voltage and setting the low speed for the chuff and the high speed for the chuff.  Still no sound while moving.

I suspect you have a broken wire or bad speaker. Since it worked on your system, it's not a bad amp. Moving the engine around could shift a bad connection in a broken wire to work temporarily.

Try holding the Whistle button and moving the wires to the speaker. See if the sound cuts in and out. Also tap on the speaker (the metal casing,not the paper cone) while sounds should be coming out, see if it cuts in/out.

There are two ways to control the volume on PS1 engines. The volume knob under the tender and a feature 6. Have you tried either of these? There is a proper procedure to lock in the settings as described in the directions or the settings will not take. That may be why the factory settings didn't stick.

I think they have sounds, the issue is they don't have chuff.  They are getting the clinks and clanks now.

Sounds like this board is very sensitive to voltage and type.  May have a bad capacitor, or there is a burnt trace some where.  I have seen this more often then I would have expected.

Typically I test the chip in a known good unit or use a good chip in the offending unit to eliminate potential issues.   If you have all sounds except the chuff while moving and you can't set it with feature #27 after several tries, I think the top board needs to be replaced.  Given that the chip works with another unit.

Access to the MTH tech chips allows the firm ware to be validated, but this unit seems to work other than the ability to access chuff, and the unit is senisitive to type of transformer.

Schematics are not available because of QSI  contractual issues, so it is trial and error to find the components that control various features. 

I have replacement board available.  If you want to send me the boards, I can test them, and then replace if needed.  You can contact me via my E-mail profile.  G