Phillips Screws and a Realtrax layout

You sure you used the right size screwdriver? And that the screws were in fact Phillips, not posi-drive,JIS or something that looked like a Phillips but wasn't?

In general, there's an extra effort needed to positively sink or remove phillips heads into wood without stripping, but the correct sized driver is also critical. 

 

I'm still confounded by the failure of the Robertson screw program in the US.  They make woodworking and basic carpentry a breeze.  I blew through roughing in the entire attic transformation with one bit in my power driver.  Even old Henry Ford knew the benefit of Robertson but couldn't get exclusive rights.

 

Bruce

 

 

I've used small quantities of Robertson screws, and thought they worked well. I see a lot more stuff with Torx drive, which also works well. No idea why one is more popular than the other.

As far as Phillips head screws go:

According to what I've read in various places, Phillips head screws are designed to have the driver "cam out" of the screw at a certain torque level. IMHO, that can make the screws hard to remove. I think I would try either a JIS or Pozidriv screwdriver to remove the screws. Don't have one?

Before I purchased sets of JIS and Pozidriv screwdrivers, I ground away the very tip of a standard Craftsman #1 Phillips screwdriver. It works well. I still use it when I am too lazy to get up and get my specialty set(s) out.

Tommy:

 

I feel your pain. I too used phillips headed screws to retain my RealTrax track and had similar problems initially. In the early stages of building up my layout I laid the track but found it needed some changes (parallel track paths too closer together such that trains were touching each other in curves) which required removing the some of the screws from the plywood base. A large percentage of the screw heads stripped out.

 

In many decades of using phillips screws I have found that a large percentage of those available are made of junk metal and easily strip the heads. Yes, it is important to have the correct sized screw driver but bad screws are more often the problem. Big box home improvement stores usually have crap screws.

 

I recently learned that there is a difference between the shape of Japanese (I assume Asian) phillips head drivers and the US specified phillips head drivers. Perhaps that is the problem?? I have not seen theses different drivers offered for sale and I have no idea who makes the big box store screws (USA or Asian) but suspect they are not USA spec'ed.

 

LDBennett

Depending on the type of screw.  You can use diagonal side cutters to get it started.

 

If the screw is so soft that the tool head strips, it is probably soft enough to indent with a set of cutters. IMO  You may also want to try a new/better screw driver or driver tip.  There are an assortment of different types of tips also.

Have fun with your project

Mike CT.

I use #4 Philips flat head x 3/4" machine screws. meant for metal. #1 Phillips head tip or screw driver.

 

I think you went too long.

quote:

I have not seen theses different drivers offered for sale.

 

I could not find them locally either. I purchased mine on-line through Amazon.com

Not when they are in a counter-sunk plastic roadbed-RealTrax

Alternate plan #2.

 

Or you could use the heavy artillery.

 

Mike CT

i have had this happen to me and I was able to drill the head off.

Start with the smallest bit, titanium or cobalt if you have them.

This will act as centering hole and then work your way up to the diameter 

of the shank. Once the head falls off, lift the track and remove the shank with

a vise grip pliers.  I have found predrilling a hole for the screw lessens the 

resistance for installation and makes it easier to remove the screw later

if necessary. I have a dremel type drill that is light and easy to use for predrilling

This is what I have been using for at least 20 years in all manner of layouts and track.

I haven't had any issues with removing and reusing any of them

A proper sized driver is essential and the number one preferred item to have. Drilling a pilot hole is also a good idea, as suggested above. Using bee's wax on the screws when installing them will make them drive much easier with less chance of stripping the head and will probably make removal easier as well.

 

Bee's wax can be purchased at a woodworking supply store. It's probably not available at the big box stores? Bee's wax is preferred, if you can't find it a bar of soap can probably be used in this case. Soap is not recommended for use in furniture making, but for track screws it should not be a problem.

 

Edit: Also, as mentioned above, screw quality isn't what it used to be. Try to find good quality screws, if that is possible these days. It's well worth paying more for better screws. I have usually had better luck with screws from Ace hardware than from the big box stores, but that can sometimes vary by screw type.

Note that there are screws that may look like a Phillips 4 point cross slot. Quick internet search:  

Phillips: The Phillips head is an improvement to the slotted screw; cross-shaped grooves that do not extend to the edge of the screw head accept a Phillips-head screwdriver.  These heads, which have a slight circular shape where the slots cross, provide a larger mating surface between the screw and the screwdriver, which minimizes wear and helps prevent slipping. Although many people refer to any screw head that has cross-shaped grooves as a Phillips head, there are other types of screws that have similar slots. A cross head features two full-length slots that cross, which allows a flat-head screwdriver to be used and makes the screw usable even if one slot has been worn away. Another type that has two short slots that cross but does not have a small circular shape at the center is known as a Prince, Frearson or Reed head.

 

You might also note that for those drilling the head off a strip screw there are counter clockwise drill bits available.  A counterclockwise bit may be enough to get the screw started. 

I have noticed a considerable variation in the shapes of so-called Phillips #2 screwdrivers and driver bits.  And they grab different screws differently.  Don't have an answer.  I suggest trying a number of different #1s & #2s.

I think you are quite correct here, like the screws, the screw drivers are not what they used to be either.

I drill a small hole just a tad smaller than the thread OD into the plywood first. That allows just enough bite and allows easy removal.
Romiller