Skip to main content

You got it Fred!

I do wish OK Engines would update their website a bit to show off their O scale offerings.

I plan on getting a few more cars when the money is right. They offer the kits or you can buy just the aluminum shells with windows cut to your specs. While their trucks aren't exactly up to current standards, they do work well. I think the owner (Ted Brebeck) also said they were going to come out with some newer, better detailed car ends too. Interiors, decals, peeps, will still probably have to be done by the individual but that's fine with me (as long as places like PSC are around).
OK has shipped, and sun lounge and missing coach have arrived. Will post as soon as possible. Sun Lounge for lack of better word is COOL.

Now only missing observation.

Keil-Line should ship parts in next day or two.

Patience is a virtue I sometines have in short supply.

For next pictures I will rectify my shortcoming in previous set and include PRR GG1.
Busy busy in yard. The O-1A's have been busy staging the future Broadway PRR mail and thru Santa Fe cars in anticipation of delivery of PRR Broadway cars.

The O 1 A's also have, with some interference, also began staging the Seaboard Silver Meteor. The yard master and engine house foreman will not allow a GG1 until the trains are complete, however they allowed a sneak preview with the O 1A's.


O 1 A's staging first cars of Silver Meteor



first three cars with help, baggage dorm, 10-6 sleeper, 10-6 sleeper


Yardmaster?


10-6 sleeper, followed by sunlounge # 4 car


sunlounge "COOL" car followed by 10-6 sleeper.

For all the rivet counters the sunlounge, 5-2-2 sleeper and 11 br sleeper are all with corrugated roofs per Budd, not smooth per Pullman Standard. At this point in my life I would rather be wrong than wait however long it may be. Younger PRR and Seaboard fans can wait if they so desire.

Have Keil Line roof details and will begin soon. Thanks GG1 4877 for info re Kadee correct height gauge on another posting and have ordered same to begin Kadee installation.

Thanks
Last edited by PRRTrainguy
Mike, You must be a mind reader. The observation car shipped today. I did not glue or tighten the screws as I know that you will be doing polishing, etc. The roof casting is that of the original 1941 observation type and does not have the large light of the later CZ type of car end. We do not make that one yet. Check this out on the plan. I suggest painting the castings with a high gloss silver or chrome auto paint to get the finish look . Also, I suggest gluing the rear casting pieces in place using the screw only for holding it together while the glue dries. I included a drumhead piece to be mounted over the bottom of the rear door after finish lettering. Rear of car is slightly notched at door frame for this. Again, lightly glue in place. I have four cars to do for a fellow in CA then will be on the road again for two weeks. Thanks Ted Brebeck at OK Engines

This will complete cars for Silver Meteor.

Most roof details are on cars except 10-6 sleepers where we had a small goof in parts. Awaiting roof details for diner.

With observation on way will find out if technique of decaling is learned or easily forgotten craft.

Any suggestions on how to build up end for large light on end of observation car would be appreciated. Without this light may not be able to easily back into at Jacksonville terminal.

Will post pictures as soon as possible.
Great job there Mike!

Sean, I'm still working on my Williams E7 in Seaboard Mint Green. I have to add the Kadee couplers, make the numberboards, find a set of horns, glue the diaphragm in place, and make another cab (the one I made was actually for an E8 with newer type control columns).

I want to get a model of the Budd 10-6 sleeper so I can do "The Portsmouth", only because that's where I live. I have a photo of the car that I obtained from the city library, it's the only photo of the car I have seen. I hope Ted at OK Engines comes thru with them.

It's so difficult getting interiors built for these things, even if you can find photos of what they looked like. PSC has some good parts, let's hope there's other sources too.
Fred,

I guess Walther's cut back on their O-scale while I was still in HO. I recall seeing their O-scale "Wish Book" but at the time didn't have much interest in O.

If we performed an O-Scale Blitz on Walthers, to get them to stock/make more O-Scale items, maybe they would revitalize things a bit. I guess our economy needs to improve before that will happen.
HELP

Some models and pictures of real passenger cars show two grabrails on roof with two notches on the lower one probably to attach a ladder for roof access. There are many without these grab rails and at this time I have no idea what is prototypical for the Silver Meteor. The plans I have show both ways.

Trying to be somewhat accurate, does anyone know if they are prototypical on all cars or not.

Appreciate any help
Mike,
Looking at the photos and drawings in the Lines South, January 1990, Volume7, Number 3, I don't see the handgrabs you mention, except for a handgrab on the roof of the 6100 series Diners on the table end (non-vestibule end) of the car. The handgrab is centered over the rear end of the last window. Also, they may have added them at a later time, don't know for sure.

You could join the Yahoo group and ask there:

ACL-SAL-SCL Modeler

There may be other photos that show them, but so far Lines South hasn't produced an index of what's in all 25+ years of magazines.
Went to Bob Delbridge's other post on info on passenger cars and GG1's post.
Found enough information to be completely confused. Grabirons on roof are out.

Roof details while correct according to photo's I origionally had are not even close according to some other photos.

Apparently the only standardization is, when there is a need, the shop modified to fix it.

Sounds like K4's on another posting.
quote:
Apparently the only standardization is, when there is a need, the shop modified to fix it.


When talking about the Seaboard, I think that is an understatement!!! They built/modified a load of stuff in the shops here in Portsmouth and I'm sure at all their other yards. I think that's why we don't see a lot of offerings from the manufacturers, although they also had enough common-built equipment there shouldn't be a shortage (like PS2 covered hoppers lettered for Seaboard).
I was looking at the OK Engines website and see that the Pullman cars will be made in O-Scale in 2011 Cool

I'm still looking for a decent FONT set for the Seaboard cars, mainly names for their 5-1-4-4 sleepers. The black lettering is close to what the Burlington Zephyr used, but reversed when you look at the thin vertical lines on each letter (Burlington's seem to go from thick to thin whereas Seaboard's goes from thin to thick).

I found a single example of a name for one of the 5-1-4-4 sleepers. The name of the car is suppose to be CEDARTOWN, but the fella that lettered his HO scale car lettered it CEDERTOWN. I didn't notice it until just before I was going to make some decals.

I may have to get some decals made.
On Friday the observation arrived. To say I was upset was mild.

The box was the storage carton buried in wide shipping tape. It will always look shabby when I store the car.

On Saturday I proceeded to check out the observation pieces. The instructions detailed how to make it into a Seaboard Silver Meteor end by filing the upper plate. Then drilling into it for mars light.

Since I do not have a machine shop, though I'm getting there, I will think about it.

The ends of the corrugated sides on initial glance appear to to cut the wrong way, however I will review and rethink it later this week.

I am not sure whether I am tired or crabby or correct.

Will let you know when I review for the second time.
Mike, I read your OGR forum post and am sorry that you are dis-pleased. Individual cars are shipped that way to save shipping costs. It's different when package is shared with other cars. The instructions that you refer to are for our HO cars and I included them as reference only. Do not file or drill into these O Gauge roof pieces as they are not thick enough without modification to work in the tail light area. As I explained in a previous e-mail, we are not making the CZ type Budd ( thicker,with light area ) roofs at this time. The car you received is the #6401 Budd 1940 Observation lounge as shown on the seaboard plan that we sent you with previous paperwork. I laid the car atop this plan before shipping to assure that it is a #6401 first model silver meteor. Please e-mail if I can answer any other questions. TRB at OK
Mike,

I feel Ted is doing these based on the data he has. There's really no telling what Seaboard did with a lot of these cars once they got hold of them, but I know they would make changes to suit their needs at the time in a minute. Two fellows I used to work with had a grandfather and a father who worked in The Shops here in Portsmouth, when they did passenger car repairs and both of them said they made mods to the cars.

If you have a particular car in mind I can research the Lines South magazines and the other books I have to see if I can find some photos. Also, join the Yahoo group and ask there:

ACL-SAL-SCL Modeler Group

If you want, send me an email with some pictures of the cars you received from Ted so I can try to match them with the photos.

Oh, thanks again for all your help, I'm almost done with my 5-1-4-4 Sleeper, gonna name it PINEHURST Wink
Hi Fred

Right now it is still in box. As soon as I get it out and Brasso it and put strips on it I will put preliminary photo on line. This will be in 2 to 3 days.

My major interest right now is figuring out diaphrams and car ends.

The more you learn and pay attention, the more you realize the depth of your ignorance.

I have no idea whose idea that was originally but it is true.

Onward and foreward.
quote:
Originally posted by Fred Brenek:
PRRTrainguy,

Any chance of seeing a photo of your observation?

Fred


Preliminary pictures.



Have only used Brasso and attached strips for name of line and car number. Much needs to be done.

Infamous box in background. Other boxes are clean and this is not. Petty, I don't know, but at this time obviously it bothers me.



In second picture it is near the two car addition for the SF SC. They are both scale, however length is not even close. I am simply noting the obvious.
Have been working putting underbody detail and shims and beginning Kadee installation. Thanks to GGD for prebuilt underbody details.

On side trying to figure out diaphrams with anti rattle bars, too many pieces and mfr has not been much help and my pictures show much less parts than brass castings contain.

Have dozen 40482 which are for inside car, not part of diaphrams.
No use and sort of stuck with almost $90.00 worth of brass with no value to me. Sometimes should not believe mfgr brochures.

Some day...

The observation car I have pretended to ignore, but end is problem. When you assemble according to machined slots, it looks bad.






The window should be the same height as others, I guess I will have to file it lower.

If I glue it further out, not in lower slot it looks better and hides the gash on right side etc.

I cannot begin to do this until I figure out how to make a Silver Meteor end light. I also will have to check and get the running lights, hopefully KEIL LINE has them.

Are we having fun yet.

Despite undertones of frustration, on whole it has been an interesting experience.
Last edited by PRRTrainguy
quote:
Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
Check out Tomar's Lighted Drumheads:

TOMAR

They have one for the Silver Meteor.


Thanks it will work perfectly for the drumhead on the door, but need to cogitate, ruminate etc re the light and streamlining on end above the door.

They also have a Seaboard round decal which I can use on all the cars, which is something I was wondering about.

Tally Ho!
quote:
Originally posted by Fred Brenek:
Compared to the rest of the train, that obs looks pretty rough. Maybe you can carve an end door to fit in wax and then have it cast and plated?

Fred


I may end up doing that (have never done that, but what is new) but first I will try using fillers and see what that looks like. The big problem with trying anything except fillers is the gash on the right.

Since I have already committed with brasso polishing, Seaboard decals, underbody details, shim for Kadee, I am sort of committed to fixing it.

We will see.
Could you make the rear door wider and file down the rough cutout for the door?

It also looks like the rear top needs a thin shim to bring it up to the level of the corrugated roof.

A new, wider rear door made from plastic might work if combined with widening the opening so that is parallel.

I need to go look at the photos I have of the OBS car to see what else could be done.
quote:
Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
Could you make the rear door wider and file down the rough cutout for the door?

It also looks like the rear top needs a thin shim to bring it up to the level of the corrugated roof.

A new, wider rear door made from plastic might work if combined with widening the opening so that is parallel.

I need to go look at the photos I have of the OBS car to see what else could be done.


Filing to make ends at least parallel will help.

The roof piece has a underplate where it fits to the car body, so a shim is not possible. I see what you are talking about, and the whole thing down to and including the instructions included and not labeled HO is frustrating.

Prior to observation end, most problems have been mostly aggravating.
Looking at the photos in Paul Faulk's book "Seaboard Air Line Color Guide to freight and Passenger Equipment":

Number 6401 and 6402 had diaphragms installed on the ends at some point. 6400 was rebuilt with a square in in 1943.

Number 6605 had the boattail end with large light housing on the rear roof. 6600, 6603, and 6604 had diaphragms installed (for mid-train operation). 6601 had the large light housing also, as did 6602.

From the photos, #6401 or 6402 with the diaphragm would be the one I would do if you can't fix the rearend.

Then again, maybe some JB Weld and a file might fix that gouge on the rea (apparently caused by the metal shears/stamp). If it was mine I would widen the opening and make a wider door.

The door window in the photo of 6401 (page 28) is higher than the side windows, but on all the other cars it's even.

If I'm reading the drawing I have of the car correctly, it looks like the rear door should be 28" wide. 5/8" would be a 30" door (difference of 1/24").
quote:
Originally posted by Bob Delbridge:
Looking at the photos in Paul Faulk's book "Seaboard Air Line Color Guide to freight and Passenger Equipment":

Number 6401 and 6402 had diaphragms installed on the ends at some point. 6400 was rebuilt with a square in in 1943.

Number 6605 had the boattail end with large light housing on the rear roof. 6600, 6603, and 6604 had diaphragms installed (for mid-train operation). 6601 had the large light housing also, as did 6602.

From the photos, #6401 or 6402 with the diaphragm would be the one I would do if you can't fix the rearend.

Then again, maybe some JB Weld and a file might fix that gouge on the rea (apparently caused by the metal shears/stamp). If it was mine I would widen the opening and make a wider door.

The door window in the photo of 6401 (page 28) is higher than the side windows, but on all the other cars it's even.

If I'm reading the drawing I have of the car correctly, it looks like the rear door should be 28" wide. 5/8" would be a 30" door (difference of 1/24").


Any chance of posting pictures?

Thanks for looking up that information as I do not have that book.
Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×