Is there a tool/device available that can be used to help butt two track ends together so there is no spacing between the track ends? For use with O gauge tubular or Gargrave track
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I have used a small block of wood and a hammer!
I second Mikes' method.
TinMan3Rail, a forum sponsor, has a jig that can be used listed here on his tools page:
http://tinman3rail.com/tools.html
Though I have alway used the hammer/wood block technology as described above - or even the grab-them-and-push-real-hard method - there is or was, indeed, a device for Lionel and the like tubular track in the not-too-distant past. Used to see it in OGR and/or CTT. Maybe they still make it. Haven't noticed. Check the little ads.
there is or was, indeed, a device for Lionel and the like tubular track in the not-too-distant past. Used to see it in OGR and/or CTT.
That was the T-Tracker. It was very expensive. You can always buy Menard's track - it has a very loose fit
Brendan
Thanks. Hammer and block of wood will be used.
The t-tracker grips the rails or the ties? It seems like overkill at first look, then ... I'm rather sold! The right tool for the job.
rad400 posted:Is there a tool/device available that can be used to help butt two track ends together ...
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Severn posted:The t-tracker grips the rails or the ties? It seems like overkill at first look, then ... I'm rather sold! The right tool for the job.
Grips the rails. As you stated the right tool! Use to use a nice little brass hammer.
T-Tracker works well, but it is pricey. If building a new decent sized layout with all fresh track, it's worth it. If using older track, you probably don't need it being as the holes are already enlarged a bit.
Steve
PRRronbh posted:
I found a old CTT Google posting from 2008 where the Ttracker was selling for $175. For that type of $, a piece of wood, hammer and gloves will work just fine. Initially was looking for an easier way, but not at $175. If anyone has one and wants to sell it at a very reasonable price, let me know.
Thanks
When using new gargraves track I always take pliers and insert a joiner in and out of the non joiner ends. Track goes together much easier when ready to join.
Rod Miller
It's a lot. Yet ... I kept thinking the right pair of pliers... there are a lot of pliers with noses of all sorts, shapes, sizes. But in the end the pliers would probably be squeezing the ties...
The t-tracker looks a bit fumbly with screws to pinch the rails... but I see it will work in both directions and is solid -- to keep things aligned.
Pricey but just about perfect. If I had to quibble, it would somehow magically grip with out the screws... push it down on the track, lever in the direction of interest, pull it up.
Does the T-Tracker work with Ross Track too?
Does the T-Tracker work with Ross Track too?
The T-Tracker was available with different jaws to cover different types of track. Extra jaws can be purchased, they can be changed by the customer. I ordered extra jaws for mine just to have them.
I would expect the jaws that were designed for Super "O" to work on Gargraves.
I am not familiar with the profile of Ross Track.
T-Tracker is still in business.
The question I always had with T-Tracker, other than price, was how does it work for joining curved sections?
George
PRRronbh posted:
i can't think of a bigger waste of money. Gargraves track is embedded in wood ties and each rail moves independently. when you put the track together, especially if it's on a curve, each rail piece is a different length so they typically do not all all meet up at once. then all you need to do is stop after the first two ends meet, then move to the other end of the joined piece, abut a block of wood to the end of the other rails and tap them until the joined ends meet. ...then move on.
cheers...gary
I second OVERLANDFLYER's pick - leather palm work gloves. Very versatile, effective - and necessary - for working with tubular track.
What, me worry?
Well, I will ask the question again. Has anyone used the T-Tracker on Ross Track?
Well, I will ask the question again. Has anyone used the T-Tracker on Ross Track?
If it works on Gargraves, there is no reason why it wouldn't work on Ross or Atlas O for that matter. The Mech grabs the tie ends and possibly the rails it doesn't go under the track itself.
Oh BTW, At $175.00 when one looks at the machining and tooling needed for a device, that price alone is worth it , esp if you are constantly building and tearing down layouts.
If it works on Gargraves, there is no reason why it wouldn't work on Ross or Atlas O for that matter. The Mech grabs the tie ends and possibly the rails it doesn't go under the track itself.
No, the T-Tracker does not grab the ties. It grabs the web of the rail.
(I do not have the Gargraves jaws, in the photos above it looks like it grabs Gargaves track by the web between the ties.)
I own two of them.
I have an order form from 2000. It lists a choice of five sets of jaws:
O & O27
Gargraves
Super "O"
Standard gauge
G Gauge (circle brand) Lionel, Aristo-craft, or LGB
Before I dug this out, I would have assumed that the Super "O" jaws would work on Gargraves track.
As I posted earlier, T-Tracker jaws can be changed by the User, and the fellow who makes the T-Tracker will sell extra jaws.
If you want to know whether there are jaws to fit a specific brand of track, I suggest checking with:
Dick Dodd, 3735 NE Shaver St., Portland, Oregon 97212
By the way, the tools I have are actually T-Tracker II's, as are the ones pictured above. These tools have a knob/threaded shaft to tighten the jaws.
I have only seen pictures of the original T-Tracker, it had a lever /cam arrangement to close the jaws. Anybody have one?
I have been emailing Rich at TinMan3Rail about a set of pliers that would tighten up Atlas O rail joiners. When he is back in AZ in Sept I will stop by and drop off some joiners and track. Rich said that if an existing set of pliers does not do the job he will design a new one. So if anyone is interested give him a holler.
To those who work with Atlas O track sometimes the joiners are too loose and simply slide back and forth between two joined tracks. I don't know if this has any effect on power transmission but I would feel more comfortable if the joiners were tight. I have noticed on playing around with the loose joiners that most of the time the problem is with the lower portion of the joiner being too wide for the bottom of the rail. Right now I am using a pair of electrical pliers whose end roughly matches the rail design. I am pushing down on the joiners then tightening the upper portion to the track. Sometimes it works sometimes it does not.
Solder is an easy fix but sometime down the line I will want to be able to tear down the layout.
Joe
To me there are 3 functions of interest in a tool or tools for track.
1) Something to crimp the ends of the track for a tight fit. My experience is that pliers with a more "square" (parallel) action and longer but thin nose work best.
2) For some, a tool to squeeze track pieces together without damage...
3) And again, the opposite function -- to open the pieces again...
I have fastrack and old lionel tubular. I don't have a fixed layout (the tubular is semi-retired also) -- but it has become apparent to me that changing things around as I liked to do always creates a problem as the ends of the track loosen at the connection pts over time...
So one thing I do is crimp track ends ... sometimes I take the pieces apart, crimp and then put them back together -- and at other times I just do it in place...
Unfortunately mixed results really -- I've yet to find the ideal solution in this area...
But I have found moderate success with a tool I found at home depot which has a dual ended nose ("flippable") -- it was in the wiring section.
And so one end has wiring cutters for different diameter wires....
And the other end flips for gripping ...
But what makes it work is this: the action is more parallel than needle nose pliers and the nose is thin and long ...
And because of this, the crimp is longer and more parallel on the track end -- resulting in a more consistent result. (ok, well that's just about impossible to describe... it's better than needle nose to me... the basic gist of it!)
Unfortunately I cannot find them again using google... But I found something else that illustrates this idea of a more parallel action:
http://www.firemountaingems.co...2348757340x195693380
Just to be clear -- I do not have the above pliers... I'm just showing the parallel action vs say needle nose...
Yeah, heavy gloves and a lot of shoulder and forearm strength. Oh, grit your teeth together and squint your eyes, they add to the end result of the task.
FYI, reported from CTT July 2017 issue pg 12; "Richard Dodd, maker of the T-Tracker and T-Tracker II tools for joining sectional track systems past away in March of 2017"
lt is a great design and tool built to last lifetimes. May God bless him and those who purchased and supported his great product.
prrhorseshoecurve posted:FYI, reported from CTT July 2017 issue pg 12; "Richard Dodd, maker of the T-Tracker and T-Tracker II tools for joining sectional track systems past away in March of 2017"
lt is a great design and tool built to last lifetimes. May God bless him and those who purchased and supported his great product.
I was going to mention his passing, too. The T-Tracker has been around for decades.
GREAT tool.
My condolences to the family. Now is not the time to be considering this -- but I wonder if if in the future they'd be amenable to transferring ownership of the design to the public domain. Just a thought.
Well someone must have purchased the design as ads are still being printed for the product. And how many people anyway are going to mill out a block of steel?
Perhaps a family member then... As for milling... yeah, ok... maybe though given the basic design, one could do something. It's 3D printable in steel but it would very pricey. But maybe not next year or the year after that,etc...
prrhorseshoecurve posted:FYI, reported from CTT July 2017 issue pg 12; "Richard Dodd, maker of the T-Tracker and T-Tracker II tools for joining sectional track systems past away in March of 2017"
lt is a great design and tool built to last lifetimes. May God bless him and those who purchased and supported his great product.
Well this explains the delay in responding to my email request of Mat 14. I another copy of their order sheet to post here where one needs to specify which track system since the included jaws and/or extra ordered jaws are specific to various track systems.
As for ross and GarGrave these are the "same" rail profile above the ties. And I have tried my Tracker II with a Ross/GarGrave connection.
I doubt if this jaw would work with Atlas track but have not tried it although have Atlas track. The order form require a selection of "O&O27 Gauge" or "GarGrave (Ogauge)",or "Standard Gauge" OR "FAST TRACKS (circle brand: Lionel or MTH)".
The reply stated that there was a recent address change.
The reply was signed by "Jim Dodd."
I would like to learn more on how he developed this very interesting product. Maybe OGR can do a story on Richard Dodd...?