Two more AF newbie questions

There should not be sparking if the tender wheels and the track are truly clean. Some other things to look for are first, good, clean contact between the brass axle wipers and the axles. Also verify the wheels are correctly gauged.

Second, specific to the 326 make sure the sliding pickups on the tender truck sideframes are clean, not worn out and the spring is keeping them in good contact with the rails. Also the axle holes can wear with a lot of use and cause the sideframe to rub on the rails which can cause sparking and shorting out at the turnouts.

I get parts at train shows. for mail orders PortLines is well stocked and reliable. Others use Jeff the Train Tender.

Parts needed depends on run time. Replacement bulbs are a must. Perhaps brushes but you need to know which styles are in your engines. The three you list should all be a shoulder style round brush; a few brush springs might also be needed. Next would be the replacement finger assemblies for the reverse units. I have a lot of other parts but all those are for repairs when I buy more items at train shows and fix them.

John,

Tom gave you some excellent suggestions for parts.  As to traction tires, they rarely wear out for some reason.  They're vulcanized to the metal and unless they've been severely mistreated, they'll last for a long time.  Not to say that they don't sometimes chip, however. 

As to your door, I have an orphan one I can send to you gratis.  Do you also need the latch and pin?  How about the door tracks?  They're out there.  I can also send you the pin and latch if needed. 

Along with Tom, I sometimes find the parts I need at larger train shows.  Depending on where yo live, the upcoming Spring S Spree is a good place to find most anything you will need for classic Flyer.

I would also add to Tom's list replacement couplers, both link (along with the pin) and knuckle ones if you have not already bought some.

AmFlyer posted:

There should not be sparking if the tender wheels and the track are truly clean. Some other things to look for are first, good, clean contact between the brass axle wipers and the axles. Also verify the wheels are correctly gauged.

Second, specific to the 326 make sure the sliding pickups on the tender truck sideframes are clean, not worn out and the spring is keeping them in good contact with the rails. Also the axle holes can wear with a lot of use and cause the sideframe to rub on the rails which can cause sparking and shorting out at the turnouts.

I get parts at train shows. for mail orders PortLines is well stocked and reliable. Others use Jeff the Train Tender.

Parts needed depends on run time. Replacement bulbs are a must. Perhaps brushes but you need to know which styles are in your engines. The three you list should all be a shoulder style round brush; a few brush springs might also be needed. Next would be the replacement finger assemblies for the reverse units. I have a lot of other parts but all those are for repairs when I buy more items at train shows and fix them.

Much thanks for the quick response, advice and info Tom.

I'll check out the wiper and axle cleanliness and the sliding pickups as well as the axle holes. I know PW Lionel like the back of my hand but have a lot to learn about Flyer's in and outs.

I too usually get parts from parts venders at local shows, but they don't carry American Flyer parts. I suppose I can wait for the Allentown, PA meet in a month. I plan on making that 140 mile trek (each way) if the weather cooperates.

poniaj posted:

John,

Tom gave you some excellent suggestions for parts.  As to traction tires, they rarely wear out for some reason.  They're vulcanized to the metal and unless they've been severely mistreated, they'll last for a long time.  Not to say that they don't sometimes chip, however. 

As to your door, I have an orphan one I can send to you gratis.  Do you also need the latch and pin?  How about the door tracks?  They're out there.  I can also send you the pin and latch if needed. 

Along with Tom, I sometimes find the parts I need at larger train shows.  Depending on where yo live, the upcoming Spring S Spree is a good place to find most anything you will need for classic Flyer.

I would also add to Tom's list replacement couplers, both link (along with the pin) and knuckle ones if you have not already bought some.

Very generous of you Jerry. I need the door, latch and pin. I'm missing the bottom guide too. I'll email my address to you (I assume your email address in in your profile).

As to couplers and trucks, I've already bought some derelict cars for this purpose and have begun using them.

One of my passenger cars (#651) needed a new link coupler, so I replaced that broken truck with one from a derelict 640 hopper that was given to me.

I'm in the process of transforming that #640 AF hopper into a New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad scheme. I already painted it and printed decals for this purpose. I will add knuckle coupler trucks from a non-lighted caboose that I purchased for $4 at York. I'll post "before" and 'after" pics tomorrow or Friday.

John,

May also be a good idea to pick up a few of the pins that hold the door guides in.  They are small and get lost easily. They can be removed by carefully heating the head with a soldering iron and immediately pulling out with a needlenose pliers. Attaching them is a reverse process. Push them in manually as far as they will go and then apply heat and push in with any object. Later boxcar production used tabs on the end of the door guides that fit thru the hole and were bent over to secure the guide.

Rich

AmFlyer posted:

……..Second, specific to the 326 make sure the sliding pickups on the tender truck sideframes are clean, not worn out and the spring is keeping them in good contact with the rails. ………..

Tom,

These are worn flat, but not thru. Would a drop of solder on them be helpful or hurtful, in your opinion?

richabr posted:

John,

May also be a good idea to pick up a few of the pins that hold the door guides in.  They are small and get lost easily. They can be removed by carefully heating the head with a soldering iron and immediately pulling out with a needlenose pliers. Attaching them is a reverse process. Push them in manually as far as they will go and then apply heat and push in with any object. 

Rich

Thanks Rich. 

This is exactly what I do with Lionel door guides

John, you can try some solder to extend their life , be careful not to damage the shoes when heating them for the solder. If the sliding shoes are not worn through they are not the cause of the sparking.

John,

Those tender wheels may be clean, but you might try polishing them with some 400 grit wet/ dry sandpaper, they may be slightly oxidized.

Ray

Thanks again Ray and Tom,

I cleaned the wipers, axles and sliding shoes with alcohol. I went over the wheels with a soft brass wire brush in my Dremel followed with a Q-tip and alcohol. Sparking is almost gone, a little on curves still, but not so much to concern me.

I love the OGR forum, very glad I found it a few months ago.