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Hello, After SUCCESSFULLY  blowing some fuses in my TIU,I bought Barry's Book,and have decided to run my setup in "PASSIVE" mode, and want to know what my options are for powering the TIU through AUX power.  

I am attempting to push 2-135 watt Lionel Bricks through each channels I can haul some long trains and run some of my OLD Lionel #2500 Series Aluminum Speedliner cars, which with the old bulbs, eat up a lot of amperage.  

So what is best, and what are my options for Powering the TIU through the AUXILARY power input.This way all that voltage does not have to go through the TIU itself, but I still need to power the TIU with something.- Correct????

 Any advice on this greatly appreciated ,I'm sure it's in The DCS Companion someplace, but I'm trying to run some trains later today, and do some of my Honey do list now, and don't have time to scour the book right now, and the more advice the better.  

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND that ANYONE using  DCS for an operating system buy Barrry's book,it is clearly written in terms we can all understand ,and I found the downloadable version to be very, very  inexpensive.

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So what is best, and what are my options for Powering the TIU through the AUXILARY power input.This way all that voltage does not have to go through the TIU itself, but I still need to power the TIU with something.- Correct????

All you really need is power to fixed 1 out from the track. In passive mode you're not likely to blow any tiu  fuses.... 

What I am mainly trying to find out about is what Gunrunner John said a few weeks ago, about using a laptop power plug, which kind and where I can get one.

I just read in the DCS Companion,that recommends one from Radio Shack,but then it does not provide enough power to run an AIU through.What type of power source would I need to get to run both The TIU and the AIU at the same time?  

Gregg posted:

So what is best, and what are my options for Powering the TIU through the AUXILARY power input.This way all that voltage does not have to go through the TIU itself, but I still need to power the TIU with something.- Correct????

All you really need is power to fixed 1 out from the track. In passive mode you're not likely to blow any tiu  fuses.... 

Gregg,I was shown a wiring diagram for passive mode wiring, and it had the power going to the track AFTER the TIU.This is the whole purpose, not to put all those watts through the TIU,I been there, tried that, and things did not work out so well!!!!(LOL!!!)

I am under the impression that Passive wiring means you connect the power to the Wires you have running out of FIXED CHANNEL 1,avoiding blowing up the fuses or the TIU.

By running the TIU through AUX power, it no longer needs power from FIXED Channel 1,to respond to commands.  So If I am clear on things, the term "PASSIVE",is actually like "BYPASSIVE" ,so you wire your power after the FIXED channel 1 OUT,where it will go directly to your track.  

Is this right???-  NEW GUY trying to do bigger things,-Kenny

Depends a bit on how many AIU's you want to run. If you check the current running topic about powering AIU's from a TIU you will see that the TIU itself draws about 200 ma at 12 VDC; and the most an AIU will draw is about 300 ma each. So a 750 ma or 1000 ma power supply should work for the TIU and up to 2 AIU's. More than that you should use a 1500 ma rated power supply.

Rod

Last edited by Rod Stewart

Gregg,I was shown a wiring diagram for passive mode wiring, and it had the power going to the track AFTER the TIU.This is the whole purpose, not to put all those watts through the TIU,I been there, tried that, and things did not work out so well!!!!(LOL!!!)

I am under the impression that Passive wiring means you connect the power to the Wires you have running out of FIXED CHANNEL 1,avoiding blowing up the fuses or the TIU.

 

You may want to read my post again..... I did say from the output of fixed 1, (there is no power  going through the tiu and nothing hooked up the input side.) this will turn the tiu on and also put the dcs signal on the track powered  up by your brick. The downside is .. if the breaker trips on the brick the tiu shuts down and now you have a situation with power on the tracks with no dcs signal. (no control)  

If you're worried  hook up a Aux power supply... I'm sure Barry has mentioned the Radio Shack version in his book.  

 

It's been a while since I've messed with my TIU, but here's something that eluded me the whole time I was using it:

Powering the TIU thru the AUX power port ONLY powers the TIU, not the track.  You still need to run power to the track to run the trains.  You cannot run trains using ONLY the TIU AUX power port.  NOWHERE has that been made clear.  You still need your 135 watt brick(s) supplying power to the track.

A 12vdc 1amp wall transformer should power the TIU fine.

kennyb posted:

What I am mainly trying to find out about is what Gunrunner John said a few weeks ago, about using a laptop power plug, which kind and where I can get one.

You can typically get them on eBay.  Since I, my family, and friends, have cycled through a lot of laptops that have gone to laptop heaven, I have a stash of suitable bricks.  I dig out one with in the 12V to 20V range and if it doesn't have the correct connector, I put one on.  Never had an issue with that plan.

Gregg, I did misread your post,and I for sure am not in any type of position to correct anyone.So if yu took it like that, please forgive me.I am still very green about ALL of this, since I was a postwar holdout.I said,"I'll never run those new engines",these are the REAL Lionel Trains,the prewar and postwar stuff. Well so much for that!!! As soon as I ran my first MTH engine,I as stunned and amazed.

gunrunnerjohn posted:
kennyb posted:

What I am mainly trying to find out about is what Gunrunner John said a few weeks ago, about using a laptop power plug, which kind and where I can get one.

You can typically get them on eBay.  Since I, my family, and friends, have cycled through a lot of laptops that have gone to laptop heaven, I have a stash of suitable bricks.  I dig out one with in the 12V to 20V range and if it doesn't have the correct connector, I put one on.  Never had an issue with that plan.

John, Just EXACTLY should I look for? Where on the labels do I tell if it is the correct power unit or not. I am Electrically Illiterate,so if you could explain it to me in baby steps,I sure would appreciate that-kennyb

Any power brick that supplies at least 2 amps and has an output voltage range from 12V to 20V will do.  It can be either AC or DC, but most of the bricks I have happen to be DC.  As for "where" on the label, it obviously varies by individual units.

Here's one I'm using, it happened to have the right plug to mate with the TIU.  Note that it's 12V DC and plenty of power at 5.83 amps.

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