New number boards and rivet decals added.
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Basil posted:I'm working on my very first 3RS car. It's a Weaver, in Soo livery.
Looks great!
I love how low it sits over the trucks.
-Mario
CentralFan1976 posted:New number boards and rivet decals added.
#1606 is done!
Thanks!
-Mario
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CentralFan1976 posted:Basil posted:I'm working on my very first 3RS car. It's a Weaver, in Soo livery.
Looks great!
I love how low it sits over the trucks.
-Mario
Thanks, Mario!
Two B’s, or not two B’s?... that is the question.
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In my on going quest to model the Rutland. I wanted to try my hand at assembling a closer to the prototype single sheathed boxcar. They only owned 1. #7999. The car is a little different than the Atlas or MTH versions. They feature wooden car ends. Rather than steel. Ladders instead of grab irons. I started with a Mainline Models kit. I ended up just basically using the roof and stripwood. I ending up using smaller spaced siding than what was supplied. Detail parts were purchased from different sources. I used an Atlas double sheathed chassis and also the doors from a damaged car. The decals were from a few different sets. I applied them over Scalecoat ‘s paint. It dried to a glossy finish. I usually apply a gloss coat after. I didn't on this one. Not sure if it would have helped or not. I did apply gloss over the decals. The film shows a bit. Once it's In a consist and the lighting isn’t right on it. It probably won’t be that noticeable.
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I know this is pretty miner compared to what some of you guys are doing, but I final put the scale pilots on my Atlas Lackawanna F3s. These are Kadee couplers and Kadee gear boxes. The stock Atlas scale couplers and gear boxes. The Atlas ones are actually to low when you check it with the coupler gauge. The stock rear Atlas couplers were the right height though. Thanks Mario for getting me started on that slippery slope. Now only hundreds more to modify.
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Atlas Trainman Dash 8-41CW. I occasionally dabble in Union Pacific and this one was a trial run for my pair of Santa Fe’s. I’ll probably add the missing MU hoses and upgrade the cut levers at some point, but the pilots are fixed and full length handrails and Kadees installed. Atlas did a nice job on these.
RM
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Time to resurrect my old thread! Can’t believe it’s been nearly 2 years since the last post by Rich M...and a little over 2 years since I contributed something. Where does the time go?
I recently purchased a pair of K-Line CNJ die-cast 2-bay coal hoppers with loads from the Trainz eBay store. I was pleasantly surprised to stumble upon them as I never knew they were produced. Best I can tell they were uncatalogued because I couldn’t find any info on them on the Legacy K-Line website.
Side note: their condition was conservatively described in the eBay listing. I was pleasantly surprised when they arrived pretty much brand new. The cars and real coal loads are still wrapped in cellophane!
K-Line designed these cars with 2-railers and “3-rail scalers” in mind as they are tapped for Kadee box installation and come with shims, screws and detailed instruction sheets...very cool!
For those of us 3RS folks, the die-cast 3-rail trucks require some surgery to remove the claw coupler...sort of similar to the older (good!) Lionel 3-rail trucks with hidden uncoupling tabs. That was the most difficult part of a relatively easy conversion. Of course they’ll be weathered sometime down the road.
Here’s a set-by-step “how I did it” in photos. Thanks for checking it out. Hope you find it useful!
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Just finished this up. Started out as a GTW. Re done into Rutland #35. Smoke box front was switched out and the bell was relocated. Scale City cab seats were installed with Arttista figures and the armrests were painted brown. Cab curtains were made using eyeglass cleaner wipes. Built the coal pile higher and added a Kadee at both ends. I normally use Scalecoat 1 paint. I’ve been wanting to switch to Acrylics. Finally took the plunge and bought a quantity of Mission Models paints. They are mostly military based but are easily adaptable to weathering. They went on well and from what I’ve read they should be durable.
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Really nice work, as always, Dave! Thanks for sharing it here.
Question for you 3RS guys & Jack if he sees this,.....looks like I’ll be building a Kline scale Hudson for a fella that wants to go all the way to 3RS, we’ve agreed to chronicle the build on the forum, my question to Jack ( HW) & y’all,...where do you want the build thread?...on this thread, or start a whole new thread on 3RS?....thanks for replying,...
Pat
@harmonyards posted:Question for you 3RS guys & Jack if he sees this,.....looks like I’ll be building a Kline scale Hudson for a fella that wants to go all the way to 3RS, we’ve agreed to chronicle the build on the forum, my question to Jack ( HW) & y’all,...where do you want the build thread?...on this thread, or start a whole new thread on 3RS?....thanks for replying,...
Pat
Just my opinion but, I would start a whole new thread here, with an appropriate title, as to what you are doing.
@Hot Water posted:Just my opinion but, I would start a whole new thread here, with an appropriate title, as to what you are doing.
Copy that Jack, thanks,....it will titled appropriately so every one knows it’s a 3RS build,...
Pat
@harmonyards posted:Question for you 3RS guys & Jack if he sees this,.....looks like I’ll be building a Kline scale Hudson for a fella that wants to go all the way to 3RS, we’ve agreed to chronicle the build on the forum, my question to Jack ( HW) & y’all,...where do you want the build thread?...on this thread, or start a whole new thread on 3RS?....thanks for replying,...
Pat
Hi Pat...I started this thread several years ago as a place for those of us involved in 3RS to post our work and share ideas. If you scroll back through this thread, you'll notice there's a wide range of posts from simply "after" photos of 3RS work completed...all the way up to more-detailed explanations. Everything is welcome as far as I'm concerned.
With that said, I've been known to start separate threads here on the "3-Rail Scale Model Trains" sub-Forum for some of my larger, more-detailed "How I did it" explanations...and then just share some of the photos with brief descriptions here in this thread. If you think your project will be documented with lots of details, maybe you can do the same. Just a thought.
@CNJ #1601 posted:Hi Pat...I started this thread several years ago as a place for those of us involved in 3RS to post our work and share ideas. If you scroll back through this thread, you'll notice there's a wide range of posts from simply "after" photos of 3RS work completed...all the way up to more-detailed explanations. Everything is welcome as far as I'm concerned.
With that said, I've been known to start separate threads here on the "3-Rail Scale Model Trains" sub-Forum for some of my larger, more-detailed "How I did it" explanations...and then just share some of the photos with brief descriptions here in this thread. If you think your project will be documented with lots of details, maybe you can do the same. Just a thought.
Thanks Joe, and yes, it will be a pretty lengthy thread, so as Jack & you suggested, I’ll start a whole new thread,...the build will be chronicled from start to finish, including chassis swap, lots of add on details, some slight weathering ( the central liked their stuff clean ) and of course, Kadee’s ,......I’ve built a coupe of these and chronicled them but they all had crab claws, so in the traditional category they went,..this one that’s getting ready to come to me is getting the full Monty,...so just wanna make sure I put the build in the right place,...thanks again,..
Pat
Oh boy, another great project from Pat...👍 😁
Mark in Oregon
I purchased an Altas O Lehigh & New England 2-bay covered hopper at a small tran show in Gardner, MA last month. It was the body only—no trucks or couplers…but for only $5, I couldn’t pass it up. I knew right away that I would give it the “3-rail scale” treatment.
The car was already factory-drilled and tapped for Atlas’s own scale couplers and draft gear boxes; however, I wanted to use Kadees. As many of you probably know, the holes in the Kadee coupler draft gear boxes don’t line up exactly with the pre-drilled Atlas holes, so I drilled and tapped 2-56 holes to accept the Kadee boxes flush mounted with the car’s end sills.
I grabbed a pair of brand new Atlas Barber-Bettendorf style trucks from my parts stash. These are the newer Atlas trucks with the thinner-profile (closer to scale) side frames.
Most 3-rail trucks require some modifications to work properly with the body-mounted Kadee box, and these were no different. I removed the claw coupler...and then needed to remove the 3-rail coupler mounting “tab”. That was the most difficult part of a relatively easy conversion.
After mounting the trucks, I used my Kadee coupler height gauge to determine the number of shims needed to lower the coupler box to the proper height. I use the Kadee-compatible shims from Micro Mark.
Side note: I forgot just how detailed these hoppers are…they are really nice!! Of course they’ll be weathered sometime down the road? For about $32 total—and an hour’s worth of time—I now have a really nice scale freight car.
Here are some “how I did it” photos. The Kadees were already installed at this point. Thanks for checking it out. Hope you find it useful!
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Great work! Thanks for sharing.
Similar to my post above, I recently purchased an Altas O Western Maryland die-cast 2-bay hopper on eBay. It was lightly weathered with no box, but was offered at a very reasonable price so I couldn’t resist. I planned to give it the “3-rail scale” treatment.
Although this car came equipped with 3-rail trucks and couplers, it was already factory-drilled and tapped for Atlas’s own scale couplers and draft gear boxes. However, similar to my LNE PS-2 covered hopper 3RS conversion above, I wanted to use Kadees.
Since the holes in the Kadee coupler draft gear boxes don’t line up exactly with the pre-drilled Atlas holes, I drilled and tapped 2-56 holes to accept the Kadee boxes flush mounted with the car’s end sills. The main difference between this and the LNE covered hopper was this car has a die-cast under frame—not plastic like the LNE car—so drilling and tapping was just slightly more difficult.
As for the 3-rail trucks, I simply removed the claw coupler (one screw hold them on) and then flipped the trucks around so the 3-rail coupler mounting “tabs” faced inward. There was enough truck swivel clearance so the tabs didn’t need to be removed like the LNE car above. Easy!
After mounting the trucks, I used my Kadee coupler height gauge to determine the number of shims needed to lower the coupler box to the proper height. I use Kadee-compatible shims from Micro Mark.
I’ll finish up the weathering sometime down the road. Here are a few “how I did it” photos. The Kadees were already installed at this point. Thanks for checking it out. Hope you find it useful!
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@CNJ #1601 posted:I purchased an Altas O Lehigh & New England 2-bay covered hopper at a small tran show in Gardner, MA last month. It was the body only—no trucks or couplers…but for only $5, I couldn’t pass it up. I knew right away that I would give it the “3-rail scale” treatment.
The car was already factory-drilled and tapped for Atlas’s own scale couplers and draft gear boxes; however, I wanted to use Kadees. As many of you probably know, the holes in the Kadee coupler draft gear boxes don’t line up exactly with the pre-drilled Atlas holes, so I drilled and tapped 2-56 holes to accept the Kadee boxes flush mounted with the car’s end sills.
I grabbed a pair of brand new Atlas Barber-Bettendorf style trucks from my parts stash. These are the newer Atlas trucks with the thinner-profile (closer to scale) side frames.
Most 3-rail trucks require some modifications to work properly with the body-mounted Kadee box, and these were no different. I removed the claw coupler...and then needed to remove the 3-rail coupler mounting “tab”. That was the most difficult part of a relatively easy conversion.
After mounting the trucks, I used my Kadee coupler height gauge to determine the number of shims needed to lower the coupler box to the proper height. I use the Kadee-compatible shims from Micro Mark.
Side note: I forgot just how detailed these hoppers are…they are really nice!! Of course they’ll be weathered sometime down the road? For about $32 total—and an hour’s worth of time—I now have a really nice scale freight car.
Here are some “how I did it” photos. The Kadees were already installed at this point. Thanks for checking it out. Hope you find it useful!
How many Micromark shims did you need for the Kadee coupler boxes to do L&NE hopper thanks
@MR-150 posted:How many Micromark shims did you need for the Kadee coupler boxes to do L&NE hopper thanks
MR-150…interestingly enough, I used one M-M shim on one end and two on the other end. I’m not exactly sure why each end was a bit different, but I have run into this a few times over the years. That’s where the Kadee coupler height gauge really comes in handy!
Good Evening Guys and Gals,
Well here is my first attempt at 3-rail scaling a diesel locomotive. This is an MTH U30C. My first attempt will be very basic...adding kadee couplers, filling in the coupler opening, lengthening the handrails, and weathering. This has been interesting thus far but I think the worst of it is over. Right now I am working on extending the handrails. Also, I still need to file down the putty around the front coupler opening where I filled in a couple of gaps. After that I should be able to paint and weather.
I think as I modify more locomotives I will leave the handrails as is. I guess it will depend on the model. The problem on this unit is once you extend the handrails there is no plastic to drill a hole for the bottom section of it to go into, only metal. I don't think I can get away with drilling that small of a hole with a pin vice. I will secure them with CA or something of the like but it will still be prone to being undone if you look at it funny.
Yet and still, as I'm nearing the end of this project I feel a bit more confident in doing the next one.
Dave
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@luvindemtrains posted:I think as I modify more locomotives I will leave the handrails as is. I guess it will depend on the model. The problem on this unit is once you extend the handrails there is no plastic to drill a hole for the bottom section of it to go into, only metal. I don't think I can get away with drilling that small of a hole with a pin vice. I will secure them with CA or something of the like but it will still be prone to being undone if you look at it funny.
Yet and still, as I'm nearing the end of this project I feel a bit more confident in doing the next one.
Dave
Dave, welcome to the 3RS Club! Really nice work so far on your first 3RS project…it will get a little easier with each project under your belt. We would love to see the finished product!
I faced the same dilemma with extending handrails on some of my earlier projects. Drilling small holes in die-cast pilots was not easy for me. After many failed attempts, I came up with an out-of-the-box solution.
I purchased lengths of small diameter metal tubing used for hobby projects in various diameters, then matched the inside diameter of the tubing to the outside diameter of the handrails. Then I cut very short pieces of tubing and squeezed one end with small hobby pliers to form a flat surface. I epoxied the flat surface to the die-cast pilots, essentially making “mounting brackets” for the handrails. They might not be true to scale, but after painting and weathering they’re hardly noticeable!
Click here to see one of my posts from much earlier in this thread. You can see the brackets in their raw, unpainted form.
Click here to see them primed and painted. And here they are weathered.
I’ve since gotten much better at drilling small holes in die-cast metal. I purchased a low-speed battery-powered hobby drill and chuck that can hold micro drill bits. The combination of low speed with the use of some light oil while drilling has dramatically improved my success rate. Oh, and be sure to use a hobby punch to start the hole so your drill bits don’t “walk”. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing your first project with us…and please keep posting more photos!
Joe,
I appreciate the compliment. I will check out your handrail post and if the motivation kicks in, consider the new technique you are using. The project is on hold right now but I will continue to share progress as it's made. I just purchased my first airbrush and have never used one before, so that will be another learning curve in the mix. BTW where do you get the tubing you speak of and do you remember what diameter you used?
Dave
Dave, I purchased the music wire (that I used to form the railings) and the metal tubing from a hobby shop in my area. They cater to all sorts of hobbies, with a focus on RC cars and airplanes.
I know the music wire is .032 diameter, which is an exact match to the diameter of the MTH railings. I’m away for the weekend, so I’m going from memory, but I believe the inside diameter of the tubing was very close to .032. I purchased multiple diameters of tubing and music wire so I have them available for future projects where I have to match the OEM railings.
So much good information, I look forward to learning more.
Trying an experiment with track:
Older (Austrian made) code 148 Atlas 2 rail track with code 83 ME center rail. Rather tired-looking Williams E6 runs just fine on it.
I remember seeing a similar approach somewhere on this site, so I thought I would try it myself... From a couple feet away, the center rail is barely noticeable. 
Mark in Oregon
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@luvindemtrains posted:Good Evening Guys and Gals,
I think as I modify more locomotives I will leave the handrails as is. I guess it will depend on the model. The problem on this unit is once you extend the handrails there is no plastic to drill a hole for the bottom section of it to go into, only metal. I don't think I can get away with drilling that small of a hole with a pin vice. I will secure them with CA or something of the like but it will still be prone to being undone if you look at it funny.
Dave
Dave
On the real locomotives the handrails are attached to the outside sides of the steps using brackets just like a grab iron. You can simulate this as Joe does, or do the following, which you might find a little less work and require less precision:
Bend the handrails in towards the steps at the height you want you handrails to end. At the side of the steps, bend the handrails parallel to the rails and the locomotive axis. The bend is inwards towards the sides. Drill a small hole in the sides. yes they are (probably) metal, but its not that difficult to drill because the sides are flat, and much larger than the hole. Insert the handrail into the hole. Use a small drop of CA, or better yet, JB Kwik Weld to secure the handrail. When the glue sets, nip off the part of the handrail that protrudes inside the sides.
You can look on line and see how the big boys do it. (I don't have any of my own photos to post!)
Here is a photo of what I typically do:
Yes, I know. Its not 3 rail scale 
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@Strummer posted:Trying an experiment with track:
Older (Austrian made) code 148 Atlas 2 rail track with code 83 ME center rail. Rather tired-looking Williams E6 runs just fine on it.
I remember seeing a similar approach somewhere on this site, so I thought I would try it myself... From a couple feet away, the center rail is barely noticeable.
Mark in Oregon
Strummer, that be me. Ron H on the Carbondale.
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@John Sethian posted:Dave
On the real locomotives the handrails are attached to the outside sides of the steps using brackets just like a grab iron. You can simulate this as Joe does, or do the following, which you might find a little less work and require less precision:
Bend the handrails in towards the steps at the height you want you handrails to end. At the side of the steps, bend the handrails parallel to the rails and the locomotive axis. The bend is inwards towards the sides. Drill a small hole in the sides. yes they are (probably) metal, but its not that difficult to drill because the sides are flat, and much larger than the hole. Insert the handrail into the hole. Use a small drop of CA, or better yet, JB Kwik Weld to secure the handrail. When the glue sets, nip off the part of the handrail that protrudes inside the sides.
You can look on line and see how the big boys do it. (I don't have any of my own photos to post!)
Here is a photo of what I typically do:
Yes, I know. Its not 3 rail scale
John,
Thanks for the tip. What do you use to drill the hole? BTW, that superelevated curve is sick!
Dave
@Ron H posted:Strummer, that be me. Ron H on the Carbondale.
Thanks Ron. 🙂
What "codes" are you using? I'm finding some locos' center rail pickups don't hang down low enough to make contact...
Mark in Oregon
Code 148 for the main rails and N scale on the center rail. I have some large flange equipment that thumps on the ties of the code 148. I'll sell them off or change wheels at some point. Honestly I haven't run trains for a few months now, but am flying RC. I kinda go back and forth. Also turning 75 my daily energy levels aren't what they once were. Even going to the gym and lifting weights slows ageing, but doesn't slow down the ageing as much as I would like.
It is what it is.
Ron H
@luvindemtrains posted:John,
Thanks for the tip. What do you use to drill the hole? BTW, that superelevated curve is sick!
Dave
Dave
Since the handrails (on this MTH model) are made from .032” diameter phosphor bronze wire, I used used a #64 drill bit (.036” diameter). A larger hole allows you to place it better.
You can get drill bit sets with bit sizes #61 (.0135” diameter) through #80 (.039” diameter) from a number of places. Amazon is one, MicroMark is another
https://www.micromark.com/20-p...Ze50jshoCDq8QAvD_BwE
To hold the bit, I used a mini bit holder with a hex drive that fits into your cordless screw driver or drill.
Again the bit holder is available from a number of sources, including MicroMark and Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Keyless...-01401/dp/B08TB6J7Z1
By the way, the screwdriver works better, as it is not this big heavy thing holding a small fragile bit.
Finally, you need to start the hole to prevent the drill bit from walking. You don't need to drill the hole, you just need to make a guiding dimple in the piece. To do that I mount the bit in a pin vise which gives you the needed fine control. I find regular small diameter pin vises too small, and tend to press uncomfortably against your hand. I found this type, made by Shaviv, to be far easier to control and more comfortable:
They are a bit expensive, but worth it. You can get these from MSC or Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/SHAVIV-...Handle/dp/B003B3IR62
PS. ignore the negative reviews!
John-Thanks for the information and the useful tools. They look like exactly what I need.
I'm in the final stages of the U30C I posted earlier. Adding a few more details and then will weather. In the meantime, I have started working on this Lionel SW900. Added Kadee couplers and did some pilot work. Just need to do some touch up and a bit more sanding. Pretty straight forward. Like the U30C, I'm on the home stretch with this one.
Dave
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@luvindemtrains posted:John-Thanks for the information and the useful tools. They look like exactly what I need.
I'm in the final stages of the U30C I posted earlier. Adding a few more details and then will weather. In the meantime, I have started working on this Lionel SW900. Added Kadee couplers and did some pilot work. Just need to do some touch up and a bit more sanding. Pretty straight forward. Like the U30C, I'm on the home stretch with this one.
Dave
Nice work, Dave! Please keep posting your progress here!
Another name for the tool pictured, Pin Vise. Useful with small drill bits pictured.
