1st benchwork help please

Curvedbenchwork.com for inspiration.

It would be very helpful to have someone with experience work with you to get you started. Even a good carpenter friend could show you how to frme out the support system.   I think working with someone experienced is worth a 100 books.

 

I was lucky in that a worked along with my dad as a teenager with several of our ho layouts.

 

Good luck and post some photos as you progress.

You may also want to check out Mianne Benchwork - although price of entry might feel a bit steep, factoring in time and effort of locating lumber, cutting, waste, debris cleanup, etc, it pretty much evens out.  My four year old grandson even got to help (provided a great teachable moment about "assembly line" <g>.

Cannot beat the lionel modular system for a small area and great access. The curved benchwork done by tomtee mentioned above is great and will show our progress w/few pics here to show development

All my benchwork is from Sievers: www.sieversbenchwork.com. I am no carpenter....this was the way to go for me!

Lynn Westcott's How to build Model Railroad Benchwork is a good book. It will give you good ideas and has several ways to build it.

 

I really like attaching everything I can to the walls, especially with an around the walls layout.

Simple is soooo good and modular is a forever set-up even as you move or leave it to family . Good luck trying to move the setup I just posted. check out

 

http://www.lionelcollectors.or...Manual%20Ver%202.pdf

 

JayJay.. that sievers set-up looks nice too!

 

Forumites will ask you for a lot more information than just 10x16:

 

First, on you own, sketch out a early rough plan using the allowable space dimensions [10x16?]. You can do it to 1/2" =1'-0" scale on a 11"x17" cheap sketch pad with pencil and ruler [if good with a computer there are software programs]. This step provides some dimensional preciseness which becomes important as you began laying the track and placing structures.

 

For working on the layout you need to be able to reach all areas of it from the edge[s]. So, around-the-wall type with open center walkway space and about 36" maxium wide benchwork each side/end [depends on your "reach"] is one good method in an closed loop with "duckunder or lift section for access. If an "Island" type is used to enable a "dogbone" or return loops at each end, you may need to have access holes out in the layout to enable servicing it.

 

You need to decide on a track plan with mainline[s], sidings,spur tracks [a Yard?] and in doing so try to keep the track back from the edges or wall by about 6" for clearance of longer equipment.

 

In your planning avoid covering the layout with too much track--leave ample room for the type of structures and scenery you prefer. Just ask on particular items, events or materials. You will receive much advice from here on the Forum regarding basic layout planning, bench work materials, type of track available and so forth. 

 

You can go to the "Layout" section of the Forum and view many layouts under construction including relative easy 2x4 post and beam with 1x4 upright grid joists and plywood top cover, Linn Wescotts [book available] "L-Girder System" which is lighter construction [I used it in HO days--basically 2x2s/1x3s] but requires much more fabrication than basic 2x4 post & beam construction with standard size off the rack 2x4 & 1x4 lumber components. 

 

Use screw/bolts to assemble benchwork components---nails are too permanent and a "wreck" upon removal if necessary.

Just a few thoughts--good luck. As an example close to your dimensions, the photo below shows what 9' x 16' in a 9x19 attic room looks like--w/ hinged Drop Section access.

As mentioned earlier, Lynn Westcott's  "How to build Model Railroad Benchwork" is the book to get if you want to learn from the best of the best. It will have everything that you will need to know.

If you're not handy, then the pre-cut choices are the way to go.

$60 on Amazon?  Prices sure have gone up. I'd suggest checking your local library to see what they have and, obviously, check out the used book market or eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/How-to...;hash=item564badb991). It is a great book and worth having. Some of it might be overkill, depending on the size layout, but all the techniques are sound and will last.

I would also highly recommend Lynn Westcott's  "How to build Model Railroad Benchwork".

 

First some terms:

Subroadbed - the wood used to support roadbed

Roadbed - cork, homasote, or Vinylbed material (used for cushioning or sound deadening) that goes directly under the track

Fascia - the outer edge of the layout benchwork visible / used by the operator or visitor.  Typically, this holds pushbuttons to activate accessories or animations.

 

As for mistakes, I'll take my turn in the confessional:

• I chose 3/8" plywood for subroadbed - it was too thin and led to low spots in the trackwork and reduced performance.  It has required additional bracing.  For a permanent layout, you should use 1/2" minimum.
• Wood:  Buy higher grade 1"x4" straight wood boards (pine).  I've been generally unhappy with Home Depot's offerings.  Lowe's is usually a bit better.  If there is a next layout, I will probably go to a real lumberyard.
• If you are contemplating "cookie-cutter" raised subroadbed be sure that you cut the entire curve (or as much as possible) out of a single piece of wood.  Joints can be problematic and you want as few as possible.  Joints are constructed with splices - Westcott's book discusses those, if I recall.
• Forget about portablility.  If you want that, you need to think modular up front.  A layout can be constructed with reasonably sized tables (4'x6', 2'x8', etc.) which will allow you to deconstruct track and some scenery and then transport it, but only a modular layout will be truly portable.
• Think about the fascia ahead of time.  This is the something visitors will see.  You may wish to use some sort of veneer or finished surface.

Don't be discouraged by any of this.  The carpentry skills necessary to build benchwork are simple and pretty easy to master.  Yes, you can purchase pre-fabricated benchwork, but it is very expensive (IMO).  And this is something almost everyone can do.

 

Best,

 

George

I'm considering modular should I build again.  I've been wondering how clear the instructions are, how much frustration might be involved in the whole thing?  I've assembled knocked-down furniture and haven't been amused by the process. 

Welcome to our forum. I think lot depends on you carpentry skills. I gave up on attempting to build it my self fairly quickly. I went with Mianne Benchwork for many reason, there are others that have been mention. You can buy a small predefined footprint and have it built with a phillip screwdriver in a matter of hours.If you find a time when you can expand (as I have) they are only a phone call away.

Please take into account the time it will take you to find quality wood (big box home stores need not apply). The initial Mianne cost may look high but consider time effort and most of all frustration. I have never regretted buying a prefab foot print  

Lazy Railer, I tried to send you a private email but I see you do not have one listed.

Shoot me an email so I can reply to you.

dpneuzil@cox.net

Wow, tons of info.  Thank you very much everyone, especially the pictures.  I'm truly inspired.