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Hi everyone, I am a first timer here. I always wanted a model train set when i was a kid , but my dad was never into it. Now a father of two boys, I wanted to do this with and for my boys. I started with an HO set and really didn't like how small they were and we all quickly lost interest. I really wanted to build a cool O scale set. I am using a room that is about 10 x 11 but only have 11x7 as working room due to the fact the double doors open in. With that said, i have created the enclosed layout using the trax editor software. My train is MTH rail king, I am using gargraves phantom flex. in the layout there is a swing gate, and i have 1 level of track under the other on the left wall. on the right is a partial circle which is actually a helix which will rise to above the door for an around the room shelf and back down the helix. I have the helix and upper worked out pretty well and am happy with that, but would like any help with the table layout. For the space is this the best table size and on the table is this the best layout? There is a lot of switches and no way to really run two tracks on the table. please any help would be appreciated. thanks! oh and I should not the color legend. Blue is the highest level at about 6" dropping down to the green at 2" and the red is ground level. shaded track is going under the other track. the theme will be mountain logging there will be a large mountain in the middle of the helix. My other option is to take the doors off and use the full room. If I do that and a U shape do I have more options?

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as with any layout, i would advise you to find and read an article about L-girder construction.  especially with toy train layouts where track seems to be everywhere there is room, it is your best chance of creating a platform that avoids interference with the benchwork substructure; a common problem with a grid support pattern.  L-girder construction also combines light weight and strength, though the best feature is that since your layout rests on adjustable vertical supports, there is no problem using slightly warped wood which is basically all 1x2's and 1x3's with 2x2 lumber for legs.  frankly i cannot see spending $100's on benchwork construction kits for a project that is relatively simple (the only powers tool i use are a miter saw and a hand drill) and ultimately hidden.

cheers...gary

Frez posted:

Hi everyone, I am a first timer here. I always wanted a model train set when i was a kid , but my dad was never into it. Now a father of two boys, I wanted to do this with and for my boys. I started with an HO set and really didn't like how small they were and we all quickly lost interest. I really wanted to build a cool O scale set. I am using a room that is about 10 x 11 but only have 11x7 as working room due to the fact the double doors open in. With that said, i have created the enclosed layout using the trax editor software. My train is MTH rail king, I am using gargraves phantom flex. in the layout there is a swing gate, and i have 1 level of track under the other on the left wall. on the right is a partial circle which is actually a helix which will rise to above the door for an around the room shelf and back down the helix. I have the helix and upper worked out pretty well and am happy with that, but would like any help with the table layout. For the space is this the best table size and on the table is this the best layout? There is a lot of switches and no way to really run two tracks on the table. please any help would be appreciated. thanks! oh and I should not the color legend. Blue is the highest level at about 6" dropping down to the green at 2" and the red is ground level. shaded track is going under the other track. the theme will be mountain logging there will be a large mountain in the middle of the helix. My other option is to take the doors off and use the full room. If I do that and a U shape do I have more options?

Thanks for this info. I will be using this for my table design 

Hi Frez,

I think you should try to work more than 4" clearance on the right where the blue passes over the green. 4 3/4" may be an actual tight clearance and add 11/16" for the height from the roadbed to the railhead. Then you will have roadbed, unless you will set it directly on the sub-roadbed or deck. So, 6" to 7" is a good planning number or work out the actual with the material and the engines or cars. Intermodal double-stacks and auto-racks need the most.

The two red lines at left center (about 10 o'clock) may end up being too close. Allow a little more space there if you can.

You need double switches on the table and on the shelf to be able to go up and down the helix without a reverse loop on the shelf line. using a larger curve, say 42 or 54 with some short straights helps a lot by adding total length of track to keep the slope reasonable. More of an oval than a circle.

Try to work in a place to deliver something on the shelf. Give the trains something to do, like a log loader or culvert loader with the red spurs and deliver them on the shelf. Adds to play value and will keep interest.

I can see two trains running green/blue and green/red and possibly a third on the shelf simultaneously. That's good for play value.

Keep the doors. The better half will want them closed when the guys are running trains.

Trax is interesting. I see that Milen has licensed his libraries from SCARM for this cloud based app.

Have fun!

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