The 14295 is the full Legacy command set, remote and command base. The 14294 is the Expansion set, remote and charger only, no command base.

MSRP - 14294 = $289.99

MSRP - 14295 = $399.99

If you do not now have a Legacy system and want to add it to your layout, you need the 14295.

If you already have the full Legacy system and just want to add another remote, then the 14294 is what you want.

I am not aware of a Fastrack piece that is a power cut off switch? Maybe someone else can provide info on that one?

I think the fastrack section the friend was talking about is a small isolation section that comes with a jumper wire on it.Pull the jumper and install a switch across the two terminals to turn power on and off.Nick

This is what rockstars is referring to.

Please keep in mind this can be done on any fastrack piece as well.

Additionally you will need to isolate that track on each end so you control the power to only that exact section. These small block. are also used for that.

All you do is remove the red jumper from them and place one at each end to isolate that section. Then feed your power from the switch to the center of that section.

 I hope I explained it properly for you. Here is a few pictures that might help.

Larry

Larry, That is a perfect explanation!  Thank you. Can you tell me what these are called so I can buy one?  Also, what should I expect to pay for one??

As for RTR above, Thanks for the explanation.  I have one more question involving that.  I bought a Cab-1 remote and base a few months ago.  Could I use the Cab-1 base and a Cab-2 (14294) above?  Or do I need to purchase a new base as well???

Thanks guys!  Love the OGR!!!

Frank

MartyE where are you? May need some help here...

I am not a Legacy/TMCC expert (I only have Legacy), but I believe you will need the Legacy command base and remote (14295) for accessing all the full Legacy features. I think the Cab-1 can be used along with the Legacy system but will only provide TMCC operations of your Legacy engines. To use the Cab-1 with Legacy, I think you also need a 'Bridge' as I think the Cab-1 and Legacy systems operate on different frequencies. PRetty sure that's right, but maybe one of the experts will be along soon to clarify. (That was my reference to MartyE above.)

Frank

It's 1 3/8 inch track section. msrp $4.59    6-12073

Remember that's the one with roadbed on both sides. It's also available with roadbed on one side or no roadbed. These come with most of the Lionel fastrack switches. except the 036 I believe.

Remember you  can put power to any of the fastrack pieces of track with a switch. The most important part of these is that they are used at the each end of the section you want to isolate. Simply pull off the red wire and the track is dead. Then you can use the switch to power that section. If the section is a dead end then just one at the beginning of the dead end.

Just a suggestion you might want to get the fastrack book. It's not perfect but a good starter on the basic use of fastrack.

I'll let some one else answer the other question due to I'm just learning it myself.

Larry

Larry,

I already have the fastrack section, but what is that switch called?  the one in your first picture above with the on/off?  Im not very tech savy with electrical stuff so i have no idea what its called so i can get one.  Its is a hobby thing or a home depot thing?

Also, for RTR:

I guess what I am asking is, Can I use a cab-1 BASE with a cab-2 remote.  Thats the question.  If cab-2 remotes cant go with cab-1 bases, then i need to buy a whole new thing (14295).  If you only need 1 base, and all bases are the same whether they are cab-1 or cab-2, then i only need to buy 14294.

Does everyone recommend the cab-2 or should I just stick with the cab-1??

Frank

Any on off switch. I use 10amp  or some times 20 amp...overkill. It's nothing special.

Some like the micro that are small, I use the regular size myself.

Cab1 and Cab 2 are completely different systems. A remote and a base for each (there not the same).

Cab one TMCC is the older version of Lionel remote systems.

Cab 2 is Legacy system the so called latest and greatest. It's for the fancy hi tech legacy engines.

The cab 1  will run a legacy engines but, you just don't get all the functions the engine is capable of.

You can't have a cab 1 remote and a cab 2 base.

You can add a legacy system to a cab 1 system. You would then have a cab 1 remote a cab 2 remote and a base for cab1 and a base for cab 2.

4 different pieces of equipment.

I hope I'm not confusing you.

Larry

ha, yes and no.  The Cab-1 remote i have will not run a TMCC engine.  It only runs legacy engines.  I want to know if i can run a cab-2 remote on a cab-1 base.  thats the question, but from your prior answer, it doesnt sound like i can.

As for the switch, i guess i can just go into home depot and get a 10amp switch?  Also, if i have a yard that does not have the opening at both ends, is a 1 track entrance/exit, that would still be ok, right?

Larry, would this work as a switch???

http://www.amazon.com/NSI-Indu...ywords=10+amp+switch

Wait a second..You have a cab 1 remote and a cab 1 base? (TMCC) And your saying you can't run a TMCC engine? And you can run a legacy engine.

If that's the case , you got a problem ...guessing you are not addressing the TMCC correctly or the engine has a problem.

You are going to need one of these smarter members to jump on here.

I'm sorry I don't understand the entrance exit question.

I will say if the track comes in from the main line and goes back on to the mainline you need to isolate where it comes in and where it goes out??? Otherwise it's not a isolated section being feed with it's own power via a on/off switch.

you need a Single throw switch not a double throw. Just a in and a out. Home stores have them all over the place.

Larry

I got my toggle switches at Home Depot.  I had two sidings that were on a switch so I could turn off power to engines I did not want to run with the others.

That is odd, the Cab-1 should only run TMCC engines or Legacy engines in TMCC mode?

If you have Legacy engines and want to use all their Legacy features, you need the full 6-14295 Legacy Command Base and Remote set. No other way to do it that I know of.

You can probably find the switches a lot cheaper on ebay or at your local auto parts store, they should have a good selection there.  I get mine from Digi-key.

RTR, yes, i have the Cab-1 remote and I just sold the only TMCC engine i have.  I run probably around 15 legacy engines currently on my layout.  Some doubleheaded.

The entrance/exit i mean that there is only 1 way in to the yard, adn its also the way out.  There is no entrance at one end adn exit at the other.  i back them into the yard adn them pull them out straight.

RTR, can you post a link for me?  That woudl be awesome!

Thanks guys!

Would this work?  sorry, im not eletrically savvy.

http://www.amazon.com/Medium-D...10+amp+toggle+switch

TMack, your layout looks AWESOME!  I love the SP Daylight as well.  Is that a GS4??

I cant wait to build my new layout.  I am planning to build a 17 X 10ish layout in oval form, 2 levels with 2 main lines on each level, with a grade going up and down.  trying to do all the homework before breaking ground!

Frank

SPST (single pole, single throw): A basic on/off switch that turns a single circuit on or off. An SPST switch has two terminals: one for the input and one for the output.

Block at the entrance of your siding. ie dead track to the end until you switch power to it.

OH boy that many legacy engines you need to bite the bullet and go for the full legacy remote and base as RTR told you about. Maybe Santa

Larry

If you have 15 Legacy engines and no TMCC, you definitely want the 6-14295 (full set). And personally, if I were you and wanted a second remote I would sell the Cab-1 and get a 6-14294 for use for that.

Here's a couple of switches from Amazon.

This one has screw terminals and on/off face plate

20 Amp on/off switch with face plate

This one has quick connect terminals and on/off face plate

20 Amp on/off switch with face plate

These are SPST (single pole, single throw) switches or 'On/Off'. The second one will require 1/4" crimp on, female, quick connects, which is pretty standard. I prefer the insulated ones, but either insulated or non-insulated would be fine.

SPST is the same as Larry Sr describes above, he describes them a bit better. I didn't see that when I was posting this a while ago.

I get them with the spade connectors so you can just use a female push on connector and not have to screw the wire on.

Nick & Goaliefp,

Thanks, but I tore it apart last March or February.  I will start something new in the next couple years.  I really want to build more background flats and buildings before I start the new layout.  My Layout was in the July 2014 Train Collectors Quarterly pages 10-13.  I have some pictures of the layout on my FLICKR account 

www.flickr.com/photos/tedmackel/sets/72157626165227562/
www.flickr.com/photos/tedmackel/sets/72157637791065893/

I was not too sad to tear it down as I really had a great time learning with that layout and  really want something even better.  It started in my garage as a temporary layout that lived 18 months longer than originally planned.  My wife and I own a themed vintage  candy and coffee store and had access last year to move the layout into the vacant space next to our store and put it on public display.  I let all the kids touch in and run the controls.  I had a few kids that would come all the time and run it for me.  It had three separate trains, superstreets and an elevated trolley.  The crowd favorite was the Daylight because the cars were heavily populated with people in them and the kids would tap the roofs of the cars as they went by.  We did not loose any trains or scenery.  Lots of 10 amp fuses blown, but nothing else.  I also had a log loader and coal loader they could operate.

The vacant store got rented and it was time to retire that layout.  Our customers bugged me enough for trains this year that I only had room for a small 3x6 N Scale layout for the front showcase window.  People like it and it is a good attraction, but for me, it's not the same as my big O trains.     

-Ted

That will work just fine.