2-Railing a 3-Rail Atlas freight car

I’m a 3 railer that adds Kadee’s  and did have a couple come off hard. But they also pivoted hard. I had to run a numbered drill down the trucks to get them freed up after I removed them. Not sure if it was paint build up or what.  The truck mount is plastic on your car. The only thing I can think of. Is the screw got  cranked down and  maybe it mushroomed a bit. But you think the screw would have been a bear to get out.

The worst experience with the Atlas cars is when the boss that holds the screw comes out with it. It can be repaired but the worst is yet to come. The chassis disintegrating isn’t far off. I wrecked 4  55 ton hoppers just trying to add Kadee’s.

Dave C,

The problem was a gob of paint that would not let the truck be removed.  

BTW, what size screw do you use to mount the KD's?  This car seems to have threads in the holes for the couplers.

Thanks,

Ed

I am in the process of doing the same exact thing. I bought an Atlas car, which was 3 rail, but it was a car I really wanted it and I figured I would convert it to two rail. First I converted it to 2 rail using Atlas 2 rail trucks but the car sat very high on the trucks and I did not like the look of it so I decided to purchase a pair of KD trucks because I was reading another thread on this form, where it stated that the KD trucks come with ads payers that will Lower atlas cars to a more prototypical height. Instructions with the KD trucks, say to drill out the hole in the Atlas car and put new threads. I did not want to do that. I wanted to use the existing threads in case I ever wanted to make the car three rail again. The Atlas cars usually use M2.5 threads. First I tried M2 .5 x 6 mm screw and it was too short and then I tried an 8 mm long screw and that was also too short so now I’m on the lookout for some 10 or 12 mm screws that hopefully will do the job.

Ed, they are 2mm threaded holes. A 10 mm length works for most applications. There are some nice assortments that are black oxide available on Amazon. The holes that are tapped in the stock chassis aren’t quite in line with the Kadee box. You have a a couple of options. You can re drill, re tap  the holes in the chassis which will mount the couplers properly against the body. It’s a bit of work. Most stick with what’s there. What I do. Make sure you use Phillips head screws. I use the Kadee’s with metal boxes. Catch one screw by a few threads. Angle the coupler or do whatever it takes to get the second screw started. With both screws caught. Tighten the screws alternately about a 1/2 turn at a time and walk the coupler down flush. Works most of the time. If it looks like it’s going to be a struggle. Hog out the Kadee coupler box mounting holes with a #44 bit. This will give you a little more wiggle room between the box and screws.

Dave_C, that is exactly the way I have done it in the past except I used a 3/32 drill bit to slightly enlarge the Kadee coupler box. However, I was thinking if I could make a jig for drilling and tapping the holes to put the Kadee coupler box in a much more correct spot that would be a lot better looking.

Just to end any confusion you correct about the coupler box screws they are 2mm. I was talking about the screw that mounts the truck.

  Phil,  I have a jig for doing the Doublesheathed boxcars. Atlas uses a plastic mount to the chassis. Then you screw their coupler to the mount with very short screws.  I have a jig that mounts to the 2 holes for the mount to chassis. With 2 holes to drill the Kadee where it belongs. Then just drill and tap 2 new holes in the chassis. You need an extra thick shim. I use some aluminum stock.

What you could do. Is get a piece of 1/8 thick metal strip. Drill 2 holes that match the Atlas threaded screws. Fasten it in place. Place the Kadee in the proper spot and drill 2 more. The holes should pretty much be in a straight line. Just make sure you drill using a smaller bit for your tapping hole. A bit of work. But once a template is made it should go pretty quick and get the Kadee’s in  against the cars end.

Dave, that’s a great idea. Where would I find metal that thick?

The big box stores and even some of the Ace Hardwares sell metal in strip form. 1/8 may seem on the thick side. But it will last over time with the holes less likely to get out of shape. 1/2 wide will do.  While a drill press is handy. The fact that you have a good sturdy template to work with. A hand drill will make quick work of it. A set of numbered drill bits from #40 to 60 is a good investment. I got a set from Micro Mark.

Thanks to all.  I will try the 2mm x 10mm screw first.  If that fails, I can always use my #2 self tapping screws.

Ages ago, and by ages I mean 50 years, I used Devcon epoxy to epoxy couplers to cars.  I would take a hobby file, that is, a small file with a sharp edge, and file a crosshatch pattern on the bottom of the car and the top of the KD and then clean both surfaces with lacquer thinner so that they had absolutely no grease or fingerprints on either piece.  I would use enough epoxy so it would ooze up through the center hole of the KD.  Then I would let it sit for several days.  I run some of those cars now and the epoxy still  holds.

Thanks again,

Ed

@Dave_C posted:

You can re drill, re tap  the holes in the chassis which will mount the couplers properly against the body. It’s a bit of work.

And that's what I do for any car that's off my standard of using 2-56 screws. Pretty easy to do actually. All you need is a good tap and the matching drill bit. Most cars are made of soft enough or thin enough material that just drilling and then running the tap through back & forth 2-4 times gets the job done. I've got a small Makita battery powered drill that I use.

Hi,

I did not have any 2mm x 10mm screws so I ordered some from Bolt Depot.  The order shipped the same day and is expected on Monday.  If they fail, I always have the self tapping screws or my reliable epoxy.

Ed