4'x8' foam track layout

A turn of O48 FasTrack will NOT fit on a 4x8 layout.  The center line of the turn will be on the edge of the layout.  You have to have at least 5x8 to use O48 FasTrack.  Also, I doubt you'll be able to fit the O42 loop in between the O36 and O48 FasTrack.  And if you can, you won't be able to run 3 trains at once as they hit each other on curves, unless that O42 is elevated.  O31 will not fit in the O36 either.

Kris,

I think a good solution would be to break the layout into modules that can be connected together and be supported by adjustable feet or self leveling foot pads. (four 2' x 4' or two 4' x 4') This will help reduce the size of the layout for storage and make it easier to transport the layout.

With four ovals of track the weight of trains running on those ovals, the pink foam alone would probably not support the weight of the layout and would require extra bracing.

What I have in mind is using 1x3 to build the frames covered by 1/4" plywood to support the foam. That should give your layout enough support but not add the weight of 2x4's. The module can be held together with screws or clamps. I would add feet that protrude just below the modules and use self leveling pads.

Hope this helps!

Dear Sinclair

Thanks for point those items out. I would hate to built it and and then have trains crashing into one another. Based on that information how this work 5'x8' with the following:

Atlas 27 circle

36" loop Fastrack

48" loop Fastrack

54" Atlas circle

Dear Stewart

I have read some articles on this and other forums about section. I like the idea easy set up and easy storage.  Based on 5' by 8' I was think of 4 section each being 2.5 x 4'.  I would use 1x3 with 1/4 plywood but instead of form how about a low shag carpet to lower the volume of the layout.  The whole thing would be bolts together with wing nuts. The feet would also use bolts and wing nuts set up for self leveling pads. What I just described work or am I missing the mark?

I'm not sure O48 will fit in O54 due to how wide FasTrack is.  If you want 4 loops, I'd just go all Atlas, O27, O36, O45, and O54.

I would recommend you go download SCARM, which is free to use, and try out your ideas to see how'd they fit.  Once you have the track down, push B so that there is now a gray shadow to the track, this is for roadbeds, and I find it works excellent for showing if track will hit or not.

Also, what rolling stock are you planning on running?  I ask because even though you can get "big" steam like Big Boys and Cab Forwards that will run on O36, you wouldn't be able to run anything on the adjacent O45 due to overhang if you were running one of those big ones.

I was think of a using the basic 2"x4" to make the framing of this lay out. The form to be lite weight and kill some of the noise that Fastrack makes.

I used a fram made of 1"X4" outside and 1" X4" across every 2' for braces, also 2 1X4 screwed in a L shape for legs, very light and it hangs on the ceiling with bike pully system. the layout is 6'X8' so far so good.

2 things beyond what has already been said:

1) Do not place rubber tired vehicles on the foam, even if you paint it. Eventually they will sink in and stick. It is not a matter of "if", but rather "when".

2) Use 2" thick foam and brace the underside to support it very well. 16" on center is not overkill, and in fact, may not be enough. Poor bracing will eventually lead to sagging of the foam.

BTDT on both counts.

Chris

LVHR

I built my entire 5 X 8 Christmas layout as seen in the following post from foam board:

https://ogrforum.com/t...mas-layout-in-action

I used solid 2" foam board for the top layer and built a honeycomb underneath out of 2" foam board strips.  I ran all my wiring through the honeycomb.  The whole thing is about 4" tall with indoor / outdoor carpet on top of the foam board and regular Lionel O gauge track over the carpet.

I've had no problems with anything sinking in, including the full size Christmas tree that sits on top.

I thought the foam board would be quieter than plywood, which it is, but the postwar Lionel trains still make a considerable amount of noise :-)

The foam board is certainly much lighter than wood.

I got my inspiration from an article in Classic Toy Trains Magazine where they built a layout from foam board.

Good luck!

Rob,

Could you post a couple of pictures of your honeycomb structure. This is definitely a game changer, especially if the honeycomb could support a foam only table top at normal layout height.

I followed the same path as John P. did. 

2" thick sheet of foam at 4x8'.

1x4 framing

1x4 cross braces every 2'.

We made a small, upper loop with another section of 1" thick foam and 6" tall foam risers to hold it. 

Add tunnel portals and plasterwrap mountain shape. Then white paint and flake snow.

Plenty strong, very light and no sagging. 

The first year it sat right on our dining room table.

The years following, we made another section and put both on 1x1" legs in the basement. 2013 arranged lengthwise. 2014 arranged as an 8x8' square.

I can concur about the O48 Fastrack not fitting... here's the resolution that worked for me; a "hybrid" loop made up of 36-48-48-48-36.  It fits absolutely perfect on a 4x8.  Makes sense to maximize every loop you can when you're working with limited space.

Thank you one and all again for all your in put. The biggest engine I have in my roaster is a K-Line I believe it is a Hudson but I could be wrong. But I do have a few F-3 and 2-6 steam engine that should run nicely on this small layout.

Dear graz, John P,  Rob and Stewart does any have copy of the blueprints for this or the link to the article in Classic Toy Trains Magazine. I would love to take a look at it and see what total materials I need to build this.

Dear Sinclair and ams Thank you for the track tips and track design.

Dear Chris thanks for the foam tip I did not know that foam could do that to rubber tires.

 Here are some pictures of the bottom of the layout.  Maybe not so much a "honeycomb" as more of a grid of foam strips.  The 2 middle strips are 4" wide x 2" thick.  All other strips are 2" x 2".  The strips are roughly 14" on center.  

I used Liquid Nails to glue everything together.  Just make sure to get the kind that's ok for foam as certain adhesives will actually melt the foam.  I think I used the tube labeled "tub surround."  Read the label - It will tell you if ok for foam.

Also, if you paint the foam, be sure to use a latex (water based) primer before using any oil based paint or spray paint.  Anything other than latex will likewise melt the foam.

Hope this helps and good luck!

Rob

That gridwork looks great Rob!

I'm currently wrestling with fishing wires under a tablecloth on a ping-pong table Christmas layout and having the elevated grid would have made life much easier.

Mike

Dear Rob

It looks great and I can not wait for the finished layout pictures.

Kris,

It's already done ... Here's a link to some pictures I posted last Christmas:

https://ogrforum.com/t...09#39159636202961309

In addition, please see my post above with video of completed layout also from last Christmas.

Good luck with everything,

Rob

Thank you all for your replies.