4x7-ish Fastrack Layout Plan!

Now with a passing track and extended to fill 7 feet.

Jan

try this configuration to take the kink out of the inner passing siding. The 11.25 curves are included with a new switch.

Jan posted:

Now with a passing track and extended to fill 7 feet.

Jan

Well done! I dont plan on using your version of your layout because I need a good use of my uncoupling track and at least use all my track I already have. I also don't want to fill the whole table because I wanna add trees and other kinds of scenery.

(I have 7 pieces of 10" straights, 1, 5" straight, 5" uncoupling section and 4 O36 Curves. Also I realized that I had 7 straights, for some odd reason I thought I has 3 straights.)

Moonman posted:

try this configuration to take the kink out of the inner passing siding. The 11.25 curves are included with a new switch.

 

What do you mean by "kink"? 

KINK- That quick turnback in your plan at the top - the 11.25 going the opposite of the turnout track of the switch. Engines and cars don't like that kind of movement.

Moonman posted:

KINK- That quick turnback in your plan at the top - the 11.25 going the opposite of the turnout track of the switch. Engines and cars don't like that kind of movement.

Do they derail? I'm worried. All my rolling stock and locomotives can go through the O31 track

Abraham's Trains! posted:

Moonman posted:

KINK- That quick turnback in your plan at the top - the 11.25 going the opposite of the turnout track of the switch. Engines and cars don't like that kind of movement.

Do they derail? I'm worried. All my rolling stock and locomotives can go through the O31 track

Not guaranteed to derail, but creates an opportunity for it to happen. I am speaking of this area:

If you have some FasTrack, build something like it on the floor and run a train through it. Trains, real or toy like to move in a straight line. If they must curve, a gentle curve and back to straight is good. When real trains have this type of movement, it's usually at very slow speed and because there's are object that can't be moved. Like a yard in New York City or a track to get to building. The physics are the same, but toy trains have less weight and more forgiveness in the axle play and such.

You can build it any way that you want to build it. Rearranging the switch location in the approaching curves only adds a few more track pieces to the total count.

Moonman posted:

Abraham's Trains! posted:

Moonman posted:

KINK- That quick turnback in your plan at the top - the 11.25 going the opposite of the turnout track of the switch. Engines and cars don't like that kind of movement.

Do they derail? I'm worried. All my rolling stock and locomotives can go through the O31 track

Not guaranteed to derail, but creates an opportunity for it to happen. I am speaking of this area:

If you have some FasTrack, build something like it on the floor and run a train through it. Trains, real or toy like to move in a straight line. If they must curve, a gentle curve and back to straight is good. When real trains have this type of movement, it's usually at very slow speed and because there's are object that can't be moved. Like a yard in New York City or a track to get to building. The physics are the same, but toy trains have less weight and more forgiveness in the axle play and such.

You can build it any way that you want to build it. Rearranging the switch location in the approaching curves only adds a few more track pieces to the total count.

Do you think a 0-8-0 Lionchief engine would derail?

First off, I would change the sidings to the other side.  Leave the two passing tracks alone. And make the sidings as long as possible. I see no reason for the reverse siding. If the layout was larger it might make sense in terms of switching. Two LONG sidings. You can do switching and store your cars.  There never seems to be enough space for cars.  And a tunnel and a mountain in one corner. I like tunnels and the ability to model a mountain. Plus you could have a mine in the side leading to the sidings. Also consider layout extension consisting of  a hinged rectangular board, one by three foot, at the end of the layout, that folds down, but when in the up position holds an additional siding of two.

Tommy posted:

First off, I would change the sidings to the other side.  Leave the two passing tracks alone. And make the sidings as long as possible. I see no reason for the reverse siding. If the layout was larger it might make sense in terms of switching. Two LONG sidings. You can do switching and store your cars.  There never seems to be enough space for cars.  And a tunnel and a mountain in one corner. I like tunnels and the ability to model a mountain. Plus you could have a mine in the side leading to the sidings. Also consider layout extension consisting of  a hinged rectangular board, one by three foot, at the end of the layout, that folds down, but when in the up position holds an additional siding of two.

Ok thanks, I will try to make a tunnel in the corners! I don't want a larger layout and my layout is gonna be simple. I also don't know what a reverse siding is!

Edit: do you mean the switch on the middle left? That is meant for a spur track. 

I wouldn't suggest a tunnel at two corners of a small layout. Maybe a tunnel on one corner and a cut through a small hill on the other back corner, all while staying on grade. 

On my old 5' x 12' layout I had a hill in one corner that I cut through and shored the walls with "stone wall". If it were an actual railroad the hill would be considered too small to tunnel through.

I agree. A mountain only in one corner. They are easy and fun to model realistically and look great. A mountain with a mine kit would be the perfect accessory.  In another corner of the payout, lower a segment two inches or so and build a small trestle, which is easy. and looks great.  Or a small pond with a culvert. Also think about signals, which really enhance the look of a layout at night. The more the better. I am not a fan of a siding with a switch and a short segment in the opposite direction, unless on a large layout. I prefer a simple siding branching off into two tracks.

Banta Model works sells the "Little Creek Mining Company", which is ideal for the focus of a small  layout. It sells for $125, which may be a bit steep, but it fits in perfectly with a corner mountain. It's an easy kit to build for a beginner, looks great, and if you put lights inside the building makes a nice night scene.

Tommy posted:

Banta Model works sells the "Little Creek Mining Company", which is ideal for the focus of a small  layout. It sells for $125, which may be a bit steep, but it fits in perfectly with a corner mountain. It's an easy kit to build for a beginner, looks great, and if you put lights inside the building makes a nice night scene.

I will think about that model. I didn't really want to raise the cost of my layout but I might get this.

The key to a happy small layout is not to overwhelm it with inappropriate buildings. A single mine, with one or two other small structures provides the reason for existance.

add a 2' high scenic barrier right down the middle and your layout will look huge!

Tommy posted:

The key to a happy small layout is not to overwhelm it with inappropriate buildings. A single mine, with one or two other small structures provides the reason for existance.

Thanks for advice! I remember seeing layouts that have people hoarding accessories in the whole layout!

It is good to keep the layout nice and simple. 

There is a nice youtube.com video titled "weathering Lionel Fastrack" using felt paint-pens from Woodland Scenic made for that purpose.

One other item I like for a small layout, especially where there is a mine. That is the "ruined building". There a number of these models available on the net. Many are not quite "0", or 1:48 scale, but look nice nevertheless.

Tommy posted:

There is a nice youtube.com video titled "weathering Lionel Fastrack" using felt paint-pens from Woodland Scenic made for that purpose.

I would love to weather my fastrack!

Tommy posted:

There is a nice youtube.com video titled "weathering Lionel Fastrack" using felt paint-pens from Woodland Scenic made for that purpose.

Is this it?

Yup.  :-)

Tommy posted:

Yup.  :-)

OK, I will try that once I get all the track I will need! 

Here is an example 4X7 with a siding and a reverse track and a choice of industry spurs