A glue question

Paper to wood? Just about anything will do.  Superglue will work if you need things stuck immediately, but I'd probably use either white glue or carpenter's (yellow) glue.

Yellow carpenter's glue works best.

I figured almost any glue would work but asked so that I use the best alternative.  So far two for wood glue.

Wood glue is the clear choice for paper to wood I would think.

Thistothat.com

Hi Joe,  On a recommendation from Stu Gralnik of Model Building Services, I tried Goop. Its a product used by contractors and can be found at Loew's, or Home Depot. I like it because its consistency is about where Testors wood glue is but any overage removes easy with a tooth pick and it is much stronger.. It also dries clear and its not that expensive for a tube. I also apply it with a tooth pick for small parts.

If I have Elmer’s wood glue I use it. If not I use Elmer’s good ole white glue. Both work fine.

Thank you all, I'm going with the Elmer's wood glue.

@coach joe posted:

Thank you all, I'm going with the Elmer's wood glue.

Add me to that list too Joe. Only thing I'd offer is that if you are in a hurry, hot glue works well too.

Bob

Yeah, as others have said, the real key is how you plan on working the join. If you can brace or put weight on the join while it sets up, and want an extended period to move or adjust the join before it sets up fully, white or yellow glue are the reasonable defaults, and cheap to boot. For a quick join while you hand-hold the parts in position, hotglue is quickest (though requiring a glue gun and power near to the workspace), with superglue a close second (some varieties give you some time to adjust, while accelerants will speed up the set up if instant adhesion is desired). I've used both superglue and white glue for cardstock structures, with or without foamboard or wood bracing, and which I use is really a matter of how long I want to hold the pieces in place, or if I have clamps or bracing to do the holding for me! Oh, and white/yellow glue does tend to warp paper surfaces if used in excess, so that might be a consideration for visible joins, but since presumably your wood supports will be internal, that should not be an issue. In any event, good luck!

Bob, Steve I have no Idea why I never even considered hot glue.  My first thought was Elmer's but I thought there had to be something better like that GOOP or some of the others available.  Hot glue would have been the way to go.  Clamping foam core has it's own issues.

@Steve Tyler posted:

Yeah, as others have said, the real key is how you plan on working the join. If you can brace or put weight on the join while it sets up, and want an extended period to move or adjust the join before it sets up fully, white or yellow glue are the reasonable defaults, and cheap to boot. For a quick join while you hand-hold the parts in position, hotglue is quickest (though requiring a glue gun and power near to the workspace), with superglue a close second (some varieties give you some time to adjust, while accelerants will speed up the set up if instant adhesion is desired). I've used both superglue and white glue for cardstock structures, with or without foamboard or wood bracing, and which I use is really a matter of how long I want to hold the pieces in place, or if I have clamps or bracing to do the holding for me! Oh, and white/yellow glue does tend to warp paper surfaces if used in excess, so that might be a consideration for visible joins, but since presumably your wood supports will be internal, that should not be an issue. In any event, good luck!

I've done several paper/ card stock builds and the warping is an issue. I've found the best method is to glue the print to the backing and lay it flat on the floor with weight on top until the glue dries.

Joe- hot glue seems to be the orphan in many modelers eyes but tried and true works for me.

Bob

You can use a drop of super glue in a couple places to hold it in place if needed but in my opinion I like using Wood Glue and Clamps until it dries. My hands aren't very steady so I don't use Hot Glue but that would work if not a big area to join together

A sticky conundrum for sure, Joe. Sorry… couldn’t resist

There are some types of foam core with a thin plastic skin over the paper skin.  White and yellow glue does not work well with this stuff. First it takes forever to cure then once cured you can peal the glue off the plastic skin. Sanding the mating surface helps grip but these water based glues still take forever to cure. For the plastic skin foam core boards almost everything else works.  I have used CA with good results as well as vinyl solvent glues like goop, contact cement and Urethane glue like the original Gorilla glue with good results as long as you can clamp it because it expands as it cures.  My least favorite is hot glue. I tend to have more difficulty getting flush fitting joints with hot glue. I also don't like the rubbery joints that it makes. I use it for temporary bonding that I intend to pull apart at some point.      j

Recently used Titebond original Wood Glue, for a wife project.  Glue is yellow-ish, does shrink like white glue.  Requires more clean-up.  Her glued scrolls, and rods, are still together, even with rough handling.

@JohnActon posted:

There are some types of foam core with a thin plastic skin over the paper skin.  White and yellow glue does not work well with this stuff. First it takes forever to cure then once cured you can peal the glue off the plastic skin. Sanding the mating surface helps grip but these water based glues still take forever to cure. For the plastic skin foam core boards almost everything else works.  I have used CA with good results as well as vinyl solvent glues like goop, contact cement and Urethane glue like the original Gorilla glue with good results as long as you can clamp it because it expands as it cures.  My least favorite is hot glue. I tend to have more difficulty getting flush fitting joints with hot glue. I also don't like the rubbery joints that it makes. I use it for temporary bonding that I intend to pull apart at some point.      j

I have this same concern and agree with JohnActon's suggestion.

I use hot glue mostly for scenery structure (cardboard, wood, plaster).  I also use goop for many things along with CA glue, CA gel glue, white glue and woodworkers glue.

Use white Elmers with a drop of CA added to it.

Coach,

I would use a glue gun.

@Bill Park,

I'm always on the lookout for glue recommendations, and had not heard of the one you mentioned.  I bought a tube from the online retailer and am looking forward to trying it out.  I always review threads that discuss glues and almost always buy something new.  I must have a half dozen different glues in my box to use for whatever application.

@Mark V. Spadaro,

Thanks for the website recommendation.  I've bookmarked it.

I use UHU Por Glue - This is a short how to video on how it works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EGoClsh4Tw

This glue is used by architects for their professional models. It is available on Amazon. There is also CA glue just  for Foam.

Gary from Michigan🚂