A modular experiment I haven't tried

Have you seen this from Lionel & LCCA?

 

http://www.lionel.com/CentralS...lease.cfm?newsID=219

Mike,

 

Here are a couple links to module standards. Check to see what standards your club followed.

 

http://www.trainweb.org/Nation...ers/NCTStandards.htm

 

http://www.hirailers.org/technical.htm

 

http://trainweb.org/ttat/ttatarticles.html

 

Hi

Here are what we use for our club and if you have anty qustions we will help you out.

You have not bitten off more than you can chew.  I belong to a modular club and think its great.  Modular construction lets you concentrate on a small project instead of a daunting full sized layout.  Most straigth modules start out as 2' x 4' sections with two or three rails depending on the club. ( I prefer three sets of rails for more action although you do lose scenery room)  You don't even need to get a big piece of plywood and chop it down , although it is cheaper that way.  You can start with a 2' x 4' piece precut from one of the big hardware stores.

 

other than that I have time for two pieces of advice

1. make sure the end of the module that butts up to the next piece is flush.  If any wood is sticking out it makes the fit up of the module sections difficult at best.

2. If the modules are going to be moved around the key to long live is durabilty and consistentcy.  Make sure everyone understand the wiring instructions and installs things the same way.  Track glued down to foam is nice and quite but track screwed down to plywood stays where you left and generally doesn't need fixed next time you try to set it up.

 

Good Luck n have fun!

 

JHZ

Oh I almost forgot - look for the tinplate trackers manual online.  Its a little out date but its free.  You should not need to pay for modular plans.

Mike,

 

Just about the time that Lionel was starting to design a modular "standard" I decided to develop a plan for a set of modules our club could use.  I had just read Jim Policastro's article in OGR about the "second generation" of their club's modular layout.  He made a point to say that most people like to see trains running so they didn't do a lot of sidings or switching.  That made lots of sense to me!

 

My modules came out with some similarities to the Lionel plans, but some things are different.  The similarities are purely coincidental, the differences are a result of a different view of "the big picture".

 

My modules are based on smaller track curves - the inside is O36, the outside is O48.  My corners are significantly smaller, 30" x 30", and each corner is one piece.  The Lionel module has two-piece corners and larger curves at the corner.

 

My modules use 30" x 30" corner modules and 30" x 60" straight modules.  Those dimensions made more sense to me, and at 5' long still fit in almost any car.  My small SUV can easily carry 4 corners and 4 straights, plus the accessories, trains and transformers.

 

Here are a few diagrams:

 

... configured as a 5' x 10' layout, 4 corners 2 straights.

 

 

...configured as a square layout, 4 corners 4 straights

 

 

Both the Lionel version and mine use Fastrack, with the first track 3.5" in from the front edge, and the second track 9.5" in from the edge (again, purely by coincidence - maybe we both figured out these dimensions work well with corners.)

 

Our club tried out modular layout (5' x 10') out at a local train show, and it was well received.  My design uses no legs, and sits on 2 folding tables strategically placed at the joints.

 

My modular layout is all felt topped (coincidental with my lack of skill as a scenery artist), and each 5' straight section portrays one scene, ie. downtown with stores, suburbs with houses, farm, airport, etc.

 

I found some pics from our first event.  A 5' x 10' layout isn't a huge layout, but took a while to develop.  Lights for buildings and stores are mounted on the boards, but the buildings are not.  They are placed on the modules after they are attached together.  It took us about an hour and a half to carry in the modules and set up, less than an hour to break down (3 guys).

 

I would suggest that you start with a few modules... there's always room for more!

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

Two loops for trains plus a puhbutton-operated trolley and a pushbutton-operated aquarium car on one end and a pushbutton-operated helicopter car on the other.

 

[not needed any longer]

Thanks Joe!... I've been playing around with some tubular plans lately, and O42 is on my mind

 

Ed

Check out the All Aboard Fastrackers site listed  on my signature. We use 20"x20" squares with Fastrack on tabletops. Right now we have around 80 modules for about 10 members. They are lightweight and easy to set up.

Jeff,

 

I came across your club's website AFTER I started my designing... great ideas!

 

I noticed you used O31 tubular inside the O36 FT, cause we all know "O31 Fastrack doesn't fit inside O36 Fastrack"... boy was I disappointed when I found that out, after waiting months for the new curves!

 

Ed

Yep. I've kept that manual on-line for over 15 years. It's based on the last release by Al Bailey, who along with Howard "AGHRHowie" Packer and Lew Chilton created the standard almost 30 years ago. Track and technology have changed drastically and I like to look at modern O gauge modular as the progeny of that old standard. There are still a few groups that use it. It was based on Lionel tubular O gauge track and the old #022 O-31 turnout crossover spacing.

 

Modular is a great way to go if you don't have space for a layout and want to run trains with a group. As stated above, you can narrow your focus on a scene/industry/layout element rather than a large layout. Even though I've been involved with AGHR for the last 17 years, I still look at different modular standards when I think about a personal layout. After all these years, I still have a soft spot for modular in all scales. Free-Mo is the one I find most fascinating and I've figured out how 3-rail and 2-rail modules could be integrated if O Scale Free-Mo ever takes off.

The NMRA also has a high rail module standard

http://nmra.org/standards/modules/ms-1_0.html

Mike Maurice,

Just as in most everything about model railroading, there is no general consensus on a standard for the modules.

Review all of the methods and take those that you and potential club members like.

The LCCA plans have the best joining or locking system. They could be used on any module.

The LCCA and North Penn O Gaugers have the best wiring harness systems.

After that, it seems the other details are a matter of preference.

 

Legs or supports are where the rub is. Quick attach\detach and stability.

 

Items worth noting on the FasTrack LCCA plans: Ver 2 has small radius corners (O48 & 036) The straights are 45" to use a 30" + 10" and a 5" (half on each module) as the joiner track on each end. The cuts on 4' x 8' sheets leave minimal waste and the dimensional lumber is the same also. Other plans make slightly better use of the lumber, but the track usage is not as efficient.

 

I am building LCCA\Lionel modules this summer for the same reasons as EddieM-Take the trains to the people.

 

The modular concept is sound. HAVE FUN!

 

Our modules are attached to each other with 1/4-20 bolts.  Each module has brass threaded inserts in one end, and a hole in the other, so to assemble, they are aligned, then a bolt is pushed thru tho hole and threaded into the brass insert.

 

I liked the coffin locks, note that the dimensions are critical.  My bolt/insert system allows for about 1/16" of play.  I also use 5" joiners.  The modules are all bolted together, then lifted as a whole onto the supporting tables.  They are pretty light, so it works well.

 

I was impressed with the fact that the LCCA modules now have a smaller corner section too - I tell myself they listened to my suggestions on a earlier thread on the forums here! 

 

Pricewise, I find the LCCA/Lionel modules too expensive as a purchased kit.  My modules cost me about $20 each for the wood and inserts, unfinished.  About $50 for Fastrack, and about $15 for wiring.  I use Anderson Powerpoles, mentioned above.

 

The modules are now ready for traveling, the next step is to find some places to "share the fun"!

 

Here's my grand-nephew helping with a test-fit of the corners

 

 

For Christmas, it fit just right as a cover on the pool table in the basement! I configured it with Christmas decorations and an add-on tree for the holidays.

 

Mike, here's a suggestion that can get you guys up and running fairly quick-

 

Originally we built a 'traditional' wood frame, sheeting, 3 line layout with multiple wires, plugs, etc and it was good. Alignment was tricky and the wiring required constant attention.

 

Someone suggested the 6' 'plastic' picnic tables from Lowes & Home Depot for about $50 each. You can get a 10% military discont from a veteran too. These tables are very strong and have non-skid feet so sliding has never been a problem. A man can stand on ours.

 

We set them up in a rectangle and laid out two loops of Fastrack - 036 & 048(?) and had trains running in 30 minutes. Some groups doing this don't bother to attach the track  (Roger W might chime in here) but just join it and run. This would be my preference for ease of set-up and adjustment but we chose to attach it and used 10" straight section for the table joiners. Both work well.

 

Depending on the overall size you may need one or two extension harnesses from the transformer to lessen voltage drop if present. These tables are quick to set up and break down and one person can easily carry them devoid of track and scenery. We use individual dioramas for scenery which are easy to transport.

 

When our layout was simple we could set up and be operating trains in about 30 minutes with 5 or 6 members working. Give this some thought my friend.

I have been using the 6 ft plastic folding tables for my home "modular" layout. Right now it is all disassembled but when I get around to reassembling it I will expand it by including some home made 30x30 inch fitter sections.

As you can see from the variety of responses you have received, a club modular layout can be a lot of fun. The amount of work you do depends on how ambitious you and the others are and how deep your pockets are. Our club uses larger radius curves then shown in some of the pictures above. Neither is better, they are just different. We might be able to run larger engines; they may be able to set up in a smaller setting. Some of our guys swear by their Big Boys, others swear at the Big Boys!

 

Try to think through where you want to display, the audiences you want to attract, what sort of scenery you want to show, the rolling stock you have available, and the interest of potential club members. Think about how you are going to transport and and store the modules.

 

Visit train shows and other locations with modular layouts. We all like to show off our stuff! Just ask.

 

 

Then just do it. You won't make mistakes: you will have learning experiences. And have fun.

 

I guess, now is good time as any:  Seeing the modulars, for clubs, and a little

Christmas, has been thrown in, I need an idea:

  this is gonna be our 1st full fledge go at train, and  Dept 56 , combined layout.

for Christmas>   What extra transformer do I need to be getting,

there was a cw-80 on the board this morning, but that wont cut the needs for

accessories. Somebody throw out what I need to watch for --- fastrack,  MTH, tinplate, 7 cars, is what the plan is ,--- thanks !

What accessories, how many? a old wall wart or two can run a lot of lights, or some even operating acessories. Learn how to recognize power type/amount required, and then add up how much power you need all together, simple as that.

oops, sorry mike. hey tpc I think we are thread stealing. Question belongs on its own post I think.  

I would recommend you look at the East Penn Traction Club web site for the specs on their modular layout in O scale. I have built multiple modules to their standards any highly recommend them for ease and convience in setting up aan breaking down.

 

Les Lewis

Agreed.  Our modules (Lower Susquehanna vally modular railroaders) are very loosey goosey until they are clamped together.  Once clamped up they are quite rigid.