I have trouble out of both Duracell and Energizer batteries even though they manyyears left on the expiration date. I take the batteries out of almost everything anymore because so many have been leaking. This is happening in all kinds of devices. I have even had leaking from small watchlike batteries.
Thank you all for this great thread.
Craftech, thanks for sharing your clean up formulas with us.
GR John, What cleaners do you use for battery residue ?
Thanks in advance !!!
For years the only batteries I used where Duracells because they never leaked (made in USA). Duracell was bought out by Buffett corporation about Five years ago. Now made in China. I now use NiMh rechargeable by Duracell still made in China but so far no leaks. Duracell as another premium brand of batteries, I think a black packaging. Made in USA. I have not tried those yet. Duracell is also the most pirated brand out there. Go to google to see how to spot fakes. Easy to spot once you know. Some of you may be buying Duracell fakes. Also just like what was posted earlier one factory could make several brands, but those batteries could be made to different specs and quality, specified by each brand.
My rule of thumb is to remove all batteries from controllers and tape them together.When needed again I visually inspect them and check each one before reinstalling for a run.Doing keeps handles safe and makes sure batteries are at full strength.
Hope this helps Nycfan
@CBQ_Bill posted:GR John, What cleaners do you use for battery residue ?
Since these are "alkaline" batteries, I've found the most effective cleaner is white vinegar followed by a good water rinse.
Clem k - my current batch of Duracell 9v says made in Malaysia. Of course, if they’re from Amazon, like as not, they’re counterfeit goods.
@Allan Miller posted:Okay, so thus far in this still relatively short thread, we have had concerns expressed about Ray-O-Vac, Duracell, Energizer. and Kirkland batteries. Are there ANY 100% (or close) brands one should look at?
I've had good luck with all grades of Harbor Freight batteries (heavy duty, alkaline and Edge). Comparable performance, zero leaks.
Mitch
I've had all alkaline brands leak, so I don't pick on leakingness, I pick on power, and for me that's Duracell. They just hold power longer. I hate Energizer batteries, that bunny just dies too fast.
As for remotes, they are all rechargeable batteries. No more worries about leaking, and if the battery is dead I throw them in a charger over night and I'm good for months.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Probably not from what I'm reading here!
I've not had issues with NiMh rechargeable batteries leaking, so I'm using those in all my remotes for now.
@juniata guy posted:Exactly what I’m using too John!
Curt
@Gene H posted:Like Gun Runner John
I'm using NiMh rechargeable batteries in all my train remotes and been replacing them in our TV remotes, Fire Sticks, Roku etc with rechargeable's.
I throw my hat in this ring .
I use the Energizer brand . If I remember correctly, they are 1.2 volt. They don't last quite as long in my remote as the old plain non rechargable Alkaline Duracells but they can be exchanged with a fresh set from the charger .
@Dallas Joseph posted:I throw my hat in this ring .
I use the Energizer brand . If I remember correctly, they are 1.2 volt. They don't last quite as long in my remote as the old plain non rechargable Alkaline Duracells but they can be exchanged with a fresh set from the charger .
I been using Harbour Freight rechargeable batteries and you're correct they're 1.2 volt. Like you I also keep some charged and I always keep a couple of packs of Energizers for emergencies.
I pretty much use Energizer Lithium batteries in everything. It’s what’s recommended by the manufacturer of my insulin pump and many of the other batteries listed are listed as not to be used . Have not had a problem in it or any other device
If I have expensive electronics & remotes that require batteries, I would never use (INSERT YOUR FAVORITE BRAND HERE) Alkaline batteries.
Energizer lithium batteries have an extremely long shelf life and don't leak when they go dead.
I agree with those that mentioned that all alkali batteries will leak, it is just when. They are really deadly for Aluminum flash lights. For most uses I therefore use regular carbon batteries from Dollar General, etc. My experience has been alkali batteries are worst leakers than carbon batteries.
My favorite battery for heavy usage, like cameras with flash, I use Panasonic eneloop pro NiMH rechargeable batteries made in Japan. There is a brand name for Allan! They are the consensus favorite on the photography sites I follow and I have never had one leak in over 10 years of use. They are a bit more expensive than others but well worth it. The only down side to the eneloops (and any NiMH cell) is they are only 1.2 volt per cell. For cameras this is not an issue but for my Cox cable TV controllers there voltage is too low to work. So I have to feed the Cox controllers with DG carbon batteries.
I find lithium batteries too expensive for most of my uses and prefer rechargeable eneloops for those uses.
Charlie
The Rule I gleaned here is: If you plan to use a device or train intermittently, remove the batteries. If you use a train or device frequently, check the batteries. Mark
@Choo Choo Charlie posted:I agree with those that mentioned that all alkali batteries are or will leak. For most uses I therefore use regular carbon batteries from Dollar General, etc.
Carbon batteries will leak and make a mess as well.
What? RayOVac is telling you that you can't leave batteries in a device for more than 30 days?
So, we are suppose to dump all of the batteries out of our flashlights, remote controls and garage openers every month, . . . and then do what with them?
And what? Companies make batteries out of lithium now? (I've got to get out more.)
Mannyrock
@Mannyrock posted:And what? Companies make batteries out of lithium now? (I've got to get out more.)
You do need to get out more, lithium primary batteries have been around for years.
One of many examples.
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My only leaking battery for as long as I can remember, was in a laser level that was left in my train room before it was a conditioned room. Could extreme temperatures and or humidity be a catalyst for leaky batteries?
I just bought 2 large packs of Energizer at the big orange store. I'm relieved that I didn't buy Duracell.
Hi folks,
From my experiences, Duracell alkaline batteries are the leakiest batteries on the market, I have had all sizes from AAA to D leak and hurt the contacts in the respective products. I use premium Energizer alkaline in most products today. Since I am a radio guy, I consume way more batteries than the average guy. I use the mentioned Energizer batteries to build 45, 67 and 90 volt battery packs. The building of these involves soldering two wires to a battery. Since I know how to solder, I don't seem to have any additional leakage problems with Energizer premiums. I use energize Lithium batteries in my CAB 1 and 2's for their longer life, and far greater shelf life. Sure they cost more, but if you can afford a Lionel steam engine today, you can easily afford these superior in al ways batteries!
So I personally avoid Duracell batteries like they are a source of Covid 19! Other off brand batteries simply are not worth trying. I used to purchase Costo and Sams Club batteries, but had leakage problems from both.
So to answer Alan, I recommend Energizer Premium Alkaline cells. Ha Ha, I'm not a movie star, so take my recommendation from one who consumes a lot of all sizes of batteries. I also collect antique and vintage flashlights!
As others have said, if a battery-powered device is sitting on the shelf not being used, remove the batteries. (You might put them in a small ziplock bag and use painter's tape to attach them to the device.) But consider using rechargeable batteries. Here's why.
Which brand to by?
In our testing, three brands of AA rechargeable batteries—the AmazonBasics AA, Energizer Recharge Universal AA, and Panasonic Eneloop AA—performed about the same. They will keep your lights lit and your clickers clicking longer, can be recharged thousands of times over, and are widely available and inexpensive. We think you should get whichever one of the three is cheapest at the time of checkout. (Source: Wirecutter review.)
Here's how to clean leaked-battery residue. Note the recommendation of protective gear.
@RadioRon posted:Come on Joe..... That is a 50-60 year-old non-alkaline battery that has no relation to Ray-O-Vacs sold today.
I do believe that Ray-O-Vac batteries were the ones used by Lionel. I’m not sure if they were inserted or packed separately. This topic is pretty timely for me for just a couple of weeks ago I found another leaked battery remote (Duracell), and I said enough is enough. I went around to all of my remotes and removed the batteries. A couple had early leaks, but cleaned up ok and worked. Other than for my commonly used remotes I’ve taped the batteries to the outside of the remotes.
I believe that any brand of batteries can leak. (I’ve had Duracell Pro grade batteries leak as well).
Alan
Use rechargeable ENERGIZER AA batteries in the CAB-1 remote.
You can use the NorthStar AA rechargeable batteries sold at MENARDS, but they are a wider diameter than ENERGIZER and hard to fit into the CAB-1.
Andrew
@Gerald Marafioti posted:I said it before & i will say it again ,I have never used any brand but DURACELL ,for many years without any leakers ,i guess just lucky so far ,i have had batteries leak when i ordered a flashlight that came with batteries ,not Duracell some other brand ,Duracell has been very good for me & i will continue to use them .
Just went to replace the batteries after reading this. 12/2023 and 12/2024 dates.
These dated 11/2024.
Time to call the manufacturers.
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I'm done buying Duracell and Ray-o-vac. Their quality has gone done hill. I'm a bunny man now.
@Dave Zucal posted:I'm done buying Duracell and Ray-o-vac. Their quality has gone done hill. I'm a bunny man now.
Dave, I couldn't believe the leakage when pulling the battery packages out of the cabinet. Now checking everything that has a battery in it.
I have had trouble with Duracell's as well. But I haven't made a switch. Sounds like I had better go with Energizer Lithos and hope for the best.
I've had Kirkland AA batteries leak in the packaging before they were even used. COSTCO is actually very good about paying for damaged devices. I switched to Duracell and as others have pointed out, they too tend to leak. While catching with Duracell customer service, I found out that their batteries labelled as OEM do NOT carry the same guarantee as the retail product. If I remember correctly, they are only covered by one year and the liability may go back to the manufacturer of the product that they were supplied with. Duracell will pay for damaged devices that had their product installed provided they are not OEM and are still before the expiration date. I have thus far had no issue with Eveready batteries, but everything is subject to change.
@BobbyD posted:
Boy this is nuts. 😨
Is there a different process or different place these are made ?
Hope you get a good answer from the manufacturer.
I too have experienced significant leaks from Duracell and Energizer batteries. But I've also seen some "rechargeable" batteries that have gone bad as well (swelling).
So gents in a nut shell, what batteries should be avoided and what should we be using?
I have tried Harbor Freight's top-of-the-line Thunderbolt Edge, and haven't had any problems. Any other comments on these?
I haven't had any problems with Ray-o-vac's NiMH rechargeables.
I agree with Gunrunner John on using vinegar to clean the residue.
For those who complain about the 60-year-old Ray-o-vacs, they were an improvement over the prior Eveready batteries, but people didn't realize that eventually they would leak also.
Interestingly, I have never had any problem with Duracell 9-volt batteries, which I use in smoke detectors. No way will any other Duracell come into my house.
Looks like every brand leaks. I'm sure Home Depot/Costco/Harbor Freight et al batteries are made by Duracell/Everready/Ray-o_vac et al anyway.
I have had rechargeable batteries leak in my old scanner.
This thread definitely has me motivated to take out the batteries in some of the electronics and trains that I have not used in a while.
I wonder how you could get someone like "60 Minutes" to investigate the situation? In this day and age it looks like the "enviromentalists" would be all over something like this.
How does it affect the environment? Don't raise the issue: they'll complain about the energy used to manufacture batteries.
@RJR posted:How does it affect the environment? Don't raise the issue: they'll complain about the energy used to manufacture batteries.
When they get thrown away and wind up in the landfill, that would effect the environment. And what everyone should be worried about is what are they going to do with all of the batteries in the electric cars when they go bad!
As for not raising the issue, "they'll complain". That is just the chance you'll have to take.
@RJR posted:How does it affect the environment? Don't raise the issue: they'll complain about the energy used to manufacture batteries.
It would be an environmental problem when batteries are not recycled correctly. By tossing it into the trash, it will end up in a land fill and eventually pollute the ground and ground water.
Look, lets just keep the K.I.S. principle shall we? NO BATTERY IS LEAKPROOF! ALL BATTERIES LEAK over time. If you are going to store something that uses a battery, REMOVE THE BATTERY! Get in that habbit an you will have no issues.
@Allegheny posted:It would be an environmental problem when batteries are not recycled correctly. By tossing it into the trash, it will end up in a land fill and eventually pollute the ground and ground water.
That's probably true but, the city i live in no longer recycles batteries that can't be recharged. Throw them in the trash is what they told me.