Access hatches ,after the fact!

With a reciprocating saw, I'd go from the underside so the saws pull stroke won't crush the homesote as it grabs at the 1/2" wood.

Frame the holes somewhat for strength.

A drop down wont crush scenery like a flip up MIGHT.

thanks for the info,makes sense,homasote does make  a mess.idea ,how do you think a jigsaw would work,also hatch size,thinking 14x18 as I am tall and thin.

thank

rich b

RICH B posted:

I have a completed 5' x 11' layout,the left side and rear are against the wall,with no access hatches,probably poor planning on my part,since I was younger then I could climb ,crouch and bend with no problem.i have grown older as we all do,and I can no longer" tip toe through the tulips",if you get my point.option is put 2 access holes on the layout.has anyone added hatches after completion,any recommendatios or just mark and cut.what would be the desired size.layout is 1/2 ' plywood covered with homasote.electric saw ,hand saw,reciprocating saw ?opinons ,methods ,ideas?

thanks rich b

CRITICAL IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  READ READ READ....

When you cut the access holes...adjust your jigsaw blade to about a 45 degree angle....cut a circular opening.  By doing this, the circle you cut will NOT fall through the opening.  You will have to lift it out.  You may easily replace it into its original spot.  I would screw a couple of handles of some type underneath in case you need something to hold onto.

You can glue/secure ground cover/scenery on top of this removable circle.

Great news!  When you put it back, it will be tough to see where the opening is unless you are the one who cut it!  :-)

Unless you are very slim and graceful 14 x 18 might be a little tight. The problem is not so much standing in the hole and working on the table.  The problem I have is getting in and out of the hole. I have to twist to get my shoulders through to stand up. With my table only 31 inches off the floor,  it takes some wiggling and twisting for me at the same time I am trying to stand up. My openings are 16 x 20 and 17 x 23.  I could probably get by with smaller holes,  but I would have to be pretty acrobatic to do it. I am not graceful and as I get older it gets worse. When I was younger crawling through an 18" diameter manhole into a boiler was not a problem.

What holds up the table?  Are there cross members underneath, etc?

That might influence the location and/or size of the hole, I would think.

Good luck!

-Dave

I like the idea of a circular hole,but ,Dave brought up something I did not think about,i have a girder type support, similar to miane  but not,i believe 18" apart , I have to go and re survey ,thanks to all ,a lot of aspects ,I have not considered.keep all the thoughts coming ,then will re evaluate the idea,LOL sorry I did not put them in before I finished.

thanks rich

Maybe weight the topside near the cuts to keep from pushing the homesote up (saw blade again), separating it from the base wood and giving a bad cut that wont match the mate exactly.

Use a 32 tooth metal  conventional blade from the top, it will cut very clean.   Or use a laminate blade on top which cuts on the down stroke. 

Very good ideas here. I like the one as if you are cutting the top of a Jack O Lantern. I have not heard mention  weather or not any structure will be in the way in doing this. Re configuring benchwork may have to be done. Re directing electrical will have to be dealt with too. Either way this job is going to be an undertaking. Nick

I forgot downstroke blades existed, I usually used a router or scoring  on laminates.

wow,so many options,liking the down stroke,idea.have 2 areas without structures,just greenery. time to mark and cut .thanks to all ,appreciate the help

thanks rich b

Bosch  T101BR

You must hold the saw down firmly  for the entire cut.  Wait until the blade stops before you ease up.   Start the  sawing action free from contact with the wood to be cut.  This is the blade we used for fitting laminate flooring.  Makes for a nice clean edge.

 

Tom

thanks for the info,will the downstroke cut eliminate the debris,was thinking,what if I cut the homasote with a utility knife and straight edge ,then cut with reverse blade through the wood , actually pressboard 1/2 .or a keyhole saw by hand .trying to eliminate homasote critter mess and dust .thanks to all.maybe I should hire a elf to climb the layout. LOL

rich b

  I love Bosch's tools

  A very impressively run company in general. Every building I've been in was awesomely clean and organized too.

Your hatch need not be hinged either. One drop down posted here years ago, the o.p.  added a small shelf to to the underside to slide the piece onto because there was a structure(s). It need not be a shelf either.  Two brackets with routed or aluminum slots may work just as well.

I had a 10 by 13 layout against a wall on the long side that I put on casters. It worked well for me. I did have one hole in the middle, but at 5' you wouldn't need it.

For  cutting Homasote in place I lead the new blade with a clean filtered shop vac.  Works well.   All other times I use an Airway #6 knife. It is a thin blade  which is easier to squeeze thru the Homasote slit.  Also much sharper than a utility knife.

I always use a OSHA resperator, 32 db ear muffs & safety glasses.  You only get one body.