Advice for a First Timer on a Board Layout on the Floor

Thomas,

About 35 years ago i built a small on-the- floor layout (approx. 5' x 6') on castors to roll under a full sized bed. I wanted to keep it light yet solid. I used 1/4" plywood framed with 1"x2" firing strips around the perimeter and crosswise (15" on centers for rigidity). All was assembled with #8x 1" CS wood screws (for strength). It survived 4 long distance interstate moves in a ten year period, and then some. To go to 8' x 12' you may have to make it in several modules for ease of movement and/or storage.

Tell us more about where it will be located - permanent or temporary? - how it will be stored? I'm sure others here will offer suggestions and NOT suggest 1/4" ply as being too weak - they are wrong as long as it is well framed and assembled with screws assuming you are not going to walk elephants or drive a Humvee on it.

jackson

Thanks for your reply Jackson,

It will most likely be a temporary layout, and be stored likely under a bed in said sections.

I do run quite a few big steam and have been considering putting in the 1991 Lionel lift bridge in the layout, so I am concerned if these factors will be too much.

Otherwise, I can take the module idea into effect well, as well as the castor concept.

Storage and going modular are going to be hand in hand. Otherwise your size limit will be just under how far apart your bed legs sit. Id go for a 2 piece, framed, bed leg sized modular, and smaller scenes could be added later if you wanted. I think for the thickness decision if unframed, you will also need to think about the carpet thickness and how springy it is to prevent the wood cracking if bowed. Will someone EVER step or kneel on it at some point? Likely if too bare in the center. At least support the center to the floor area too. Mine had no frame and were 5/16 & 1/2 because of 70s shag carpet and younger siblings. Allows longer screws for better holding and fewer pop thru screw tips. Wires on top so they aren't tore off the bottom(1/2" and you could hide them in routed channels on bottom or top under grass paper or something).  Add terminals at the layout edge to board mounted wires, this is to keep the wires from controls to the layout from flopping about when moved far. Cheap removable castor holes on one end at least, and a rope on the other. Vertical movement? Holes for the wheels while vertical are possible with the 1/2" too. Felt strips glued onto the bottom of everything, for future trips to any hardwood rooms. Don't forget strips in the middle.

The elevation could be done, but less portable for sure. I have a plywood roadbed based elevated section on my table. I screwed the risers to the elevated section first, before I fastened the risers to the layout. The wood did allow me to pick it up as a unit with very little flex. 0-27 tubular on 1/4", 5' or 6' x ?>34" squiggly offset dog bone-ish thing.

For an elevated line, I considered doing an elevated only, simple loop.

Hello

I did this for a friends kid but for slot cars

Use 1"x 4" x 8'for the frame work,make the 4' x 3' or 4' x 4' squares or larger

Make plans on how much wood you will need and the cost for it

Take your time and pick out some straight 1" x 4"

Home D store by me  had them for $1.97 each and they will cut them for you if you are willing to wait.

Use 3/8 plywood a/c grade screwed and glued to make stress skin boxes

Pre drill all holes and counter sink all screws 

Link them together with butt hinges with removable pins or bolt them

But wheels under the layout and drill hole between the boxes for wiring.

Paint everything with some whoops paint for looks

Build up from here and enjoy

This might be over kill for the boxes ,but later you can put legs on them and come up off the floor.

Also if you build HD you will have them for a long time.