Another beginning layout to look at

Yes, the S-curve on the bottom off of that turnout is trouble waiting to happen.  I don't know what the grey curves are but if you have them use those on the left side of the outer circle.  Better to use the widest radius you can, rebuilds are unpleasant.

hey PWRWGN,

If the inner loop is meant to be joined to the outer loop you use cut tracks to make the connections in the low right. A vise and a hacksaw.

Connect the grey curves to the switch and lengthen the green at 3 o'clock on the inner loop.

Move the outer loop over by lengthening the green at 12 o'clock and then work on the fitment.

Now about the inner loop - once you get in there you can't get out. It looks like counter-clockwise running to access the sidings in reverse.

Try a replace the pink full curve at 6 o'clock with the thru point to the gray track. Then replace a gray curve with switch having the thru point to the switch at 6 o'clock. The straight between may be a full straight for an activation track (see attached)

By the way, We have a 1964 Willys Jeep Pick-up that was the business truck until about '75. Still sittin' in the back. The hydraulic clutch was acting up and the distributor locked and won't rotate. It's a 4 x 4 with the Warn hubs. Even with the 6 cylinder, it was a stump puller.

Great ideas! I can cut track to close the couple of misalignments spots.  The coal loader causes the  S curve problems at the bottom.  It is nice to have it on the outside of the layout because there are always issues.  I have lots of memories of spraying coal everywhere.   I like Carl's connection options. I took out the 022 switches at 6 o'clock and added another 5166.  I also added another 5156 at 3 o'clock.  The coal loader will like it better without the two switches on the approach.   

That looks good. Doesn't Railmodeller have the option to create cut tracks? It is common practice with Lionel O, O27, Atlas, Gargraves, and even FasTrack.

Is that the coal ramp, where you back the hopper car up? Do you have the hopper car?

Can the orange switch and the green straight tracks by the S-curve be moved up by moving the white straight track to the other side of the switch or are they part of the coal operation?

My dremel and I can cut track, but I can't seem to figure out how to get railmodeller to cut track. Maybe someone on the list knows. Yes, that is the coal ramp that you back the car up and I do have the hopper car.  I haven't been able to test it because I don't have anything wired up yet.  The orange switch has to be positioned so the track lines up the right distance from the coal ramp so "most" of the coal gets unloaded back onto a car.  My mom had this all lined up and it worked when my kids were younger.  She let us all spray coal and crash the helicopter.  She has a lot of patience.  I like the new plan, but I now have too many the 022 switches and not enough of the 65 and 66.  I have a couple that don't work so I guess I will have to work on them.  Kathryn

Kathryn,

Plenty of knowledge here on getting the switches working again. Places to get parts.

Railmodeller is in ongoing development, much like SCARM was early on. The work around for a cut track is to use a piece of Atlas or Gargraves flex track and the flex track tool to create custom length straights or half or quarter curves.

What you need to know when you build is that a certain track will need to be, say 7" long, so that you don't have to do the measuring again.

See the last post by RM Support.

I was looking for a thread that had a prototypical scene. Local coal companies had a ramp and a large concrete bin. A small building for operations.

A coal delivery truck and a tractor to load it and perhaps a bagging station. No luck yet. It looked really nice and some included photos of an actual ramp from PA that hasn't been torn down yet.

Here's a thread with the coal loader catching the coal from the ramp and loading to another car. (scroll down through the thread) Use the advanced search feature for the forum and you will find lots of great ideas.

There is also a great thread on Lionel Dealer Displays to see how they put a lot of accessories on a layout to market them in a dealer's shop.

Have fun with your treasures from the past. It would be cool if you posted a build thread. Those are enjoyed by all and you'll make some new train friends.

Kathryn,

I agree with Carl, Please post a build thread. It really gives the rest of us ideas as we plan and build. Plus its fun to see what everyone else is doing on there build. There is so much talent here, you will get great input and praise on how your layout comes along.

Where is the best place in the forum to start a build thread?

I guess we will start here.  Most of these trains belonged to my parents and misc family members.  Some prewar, but mostly post war American Flyer and Lionel. I attached some photos of when we started to take things apart.  It had been 5-10 years since anything had been running.  As you can see mom had a mix of lionel tubular, gargraves, fastrack... and yes the wallpaper was awful!

I am sorry for not responding- All Forums>Layout Building Forums>Track Plans and Layout Design or in the general 3-Rail Forum.

So, it's fine here. Just edit the title with a date when you make a new post or update.

That looked like a decent layout with lots of fun. I'll guess that you never paid attention to wallpaper.

Thanks for the photos.

We moved everything.  Thank you to my husband who took the table apart, got it down the stairs and managed to get it back together at our house.  After a lot of forum reading we added a layer of homasote and a quick coat of dirt colored paint. I think the track is about where it will be. Thanks for the help Dave and Carl.  I have moved a couple of things since this photo but it seems to work with temporary power.  Before I add more permanent power I am debating the roadbed options.  If I don't use roadbed what is the best way to anchor the track? My Greenberg book talked about nailing it all down which seems like a lot of little bitty nails.  Any suggestions? 

Looks nice. Is the top layer Homasote? I'm thinking nailing down or screws will make the table top beat/echo like a drumhead if it is plywood, we have used screws with rubber washer under the head against the ties and/or rubber/foam pads under the ties. If the track joints with the pins are snug and tight it helps with electrical continuity.

It is 3/4 " plywood with a layer of Homasote over the top.  The original plywood was pretty damaged from age and stuff being glued to it so it was easier add a layer over the top. 

#3 x 1/2" roundhead Philips screws should work. Be gentle when tightening as one only gets one or two installs with Homosote.

Nails will hold it, also, well more like brads. They can be removed with pliers.

Mainly the curves and the tracks around a switch will pin it in. Sometimes fastening a switch will cause it to bind.

I have power!  Finished soldering drops yesterday and actually put an engine on it.  Switch power will be this weekends project.  I dug out a track cleaning car and got it to turn.  Something about that smell brings back memories.  I haven't nailed anything down yet.  I added a couple of track clips but things seem to be staying in place.  I have one back to back switch that seems a little rough, but I think it will be alright. Off and running!