Anyone replaced the tender-locomotive coupling/connector on a PS-3 loco?

I've never lost those, but I think I'd probably just order them from MTH.  You could certainly make an old-fashioned drawbar and tether to join them, there's nothing special electrically about the drawbar.

 I actually just added that to an old PS1 upgrade on an Allegheny. Time will tell how it holds up.

 I just got back from vacation so my mind is still flying. I think it was just a screw post and a spring? Mine was a hot rodded version of my own so.....

 I would check around the speaker of that engine and any others. My PS2 diesels pick up everything before I know something has happened.

I have a Mohawk with the same coupler I agree it's a very cheesy way of doing. MTH could have made a better coupler for sure.

I must be missing something. Isn't just the stepped screw missing that holds the drawbar to the engine?

Pete

Put Bullitt on it!

Barry, read what Lee wrote, he was suggesting a replacement with a standard tether.  And there is nothing electrically special about the "wireless" drawbar, it's just six wires that are in a printed circuit.  It's obviously different mechanically than the old style drawbar and tether.

I've thought about a deign that let the wireless bar float while an attached metal bar like you suggest Lee carries the load. The PS3 wireless draw bar has numerous design problems and simply doesn't work very well IMO. I much prefer the PS2's when I can find them. Am on travel now but will look when I get home and see if I at least have the parts you need. After that will give more serious thought to your design challenge.

Thanks.  I have three of these so this can sit on the shelf for a while while I think of exactly what to do about it, but I do want to fix it right: these MTH ATSF Hudsons are my favorite locos.

Barry, take another sip of your coffee and sit back.   I was just responding to his post, not suggesting it was a good idea.

Barry, why do you persist in this?

Lee said:

Regardless, it seems make I should just replace the whole coupler and connector plug.  Frankly these couplers seem a pain to deal with and they seem like they are fragile.  Has anyone "re-engineered" the coupler with just an old style metal bar alone, and then connected the wires with a standard 24V plug connector?  Clunky and old fashioned, but given how much this puppy will probably run, maybe saving me problems down the road.

I replied:

I've never lost those, but I think I'd probably just order them from MTH.  You could certainly make an old-fashioned drawbar and tether to join them, there's nothing special electrically about the drawbar.

What part of this confuses you?  I stated what I would do in this situation.  Then I stated how what he mentioned would be possible to accomplish.  Finally, I made an accurate statement about the electrical characteristics of the drawbar.

Why do you have your panties in a bunch over this?

Good morning

Interesting topic here. I think the wireless drawbar needs improvement and I like Lee's idea of separate drawbar and separate electrical connection. I also wish they would improve the electrical tether on the A-B-A units I think that is worse than the steam locomotives.

Just my opinion

Clem

I agree MTH's solution is flawed but its also the best looking one out there. The problem I see is excessive pressure needed to seat the connector. I would have used a connector needing less force but modify the post with a spring loaded ball to retain the drawbar. More expensive to make though.

If you are intent on going back to the old system of separate tether and drawbar, the connectors use 2mm spacing in both directions. They are readily available from Digikey and other sources. I get my 10 contact (PS2 type) connectors now from Digikey and make my own tethers and loco connectors. 10 offering more options for TMCC upgrades. You can get similar configurations in 6 pin.

My only gripe with MTH wireless tethers is I wish they would include a shorter drawbar and not force you to buy a set of three if you want and can run closer coupling.

Pete

Its not a good idea unless you accept the information I am acting on, which strongly indicates me I would be replacing the thing anyway within the year.

Several good friends with Premier locos have told me they have had problems: when you run these a lot, after a while the electrical connection where you clip the square plug up in under the tender deteriorates and begins to need a jiggle every so often, and it gradually gets worse until it won't stay in connection. 

I have limited info, yes, but in addition the electric connection seems fragile to me.  Better to replace it now, with a robust if perhaps not as esthetic plug now.  

I think you could actually come up with a pretty decent looking tether arrangement if you desired.  I do like the look of the wireless drawbar, but they are a PITA to work with.  I typically lay the locomotive and tender on their side and connect it up, then roll them up and set them on the track.  They're fine if you leave the locomotive on the track all the time, not so fine if you regularly take them off.

I know this probably won't help but I bought about 2 months ago a MTH 4-6-0 PRR Broadway set. from day one the connector would be loose and not allow the engine to start up. or it would start up then when I went to move either forward or reverse it would cut off by going into shutdown. in talking to legacy station about it since it was new they gave me a new droawbar stating the drawbar needed redesigning and this was the replacement. now who knows if that's true. but I have a new drawbar here

I have a few PS3 engines using the 6 pin connector.  My Crescent Limited Pacific snapped the plastic on the connector after 4 months, disengaging at the worst times...  LOL

I ordered another 45mm drawbar and in the meantime used a small black zip tie to hold the connector.  This seemed to do the trick and no one could really see it anyway.  

All's well that ends well.  Patrick's Trains read the post and telephoned about an hour ago.   He is getting me the parts.  In the mean time, since I normally only run two of these Hudsons at a time, this wounded loco can go on the shelf and just look good while I await the parts and fix it then.

I am very impressed with Patrick's Trains.

Lee, I talked to Jeff Strank at MTH and they are going to send the parts out. Your Hudson will soon be healed.

Thanks

Pat

www.Patstrains.com

Pat, I hope you found your lost pup.

Ive been following this thread with great interest. MTH has introduced many WOW features to O gauge. Smoke, lights, sound, and detail are things we love and look for in engines and like to talk about as well. Tethers are utility features. If people are talking about these features -- and the PS3 drawbar has been discussed many times on this forum -- it is because they are problematic and flawed in design. The wireless drawbar is a "Whiff" by MTH. Hopefully they recognize this and will come up with an improvement that can be retrofitted to existing engines.

Also, for all my respect and gratitude to Barry for his past help and his book I find that he occasionally shares a common characteristic of my own when I deal with peers at work. That being a lack of patience when it comes to dissent or incomplete comprehension of a course of action that my established expertise tells me is the right way to go. I am occasionally reminded by my boss that this doesn't always make me popular. Where I work, that's just tough beans. After 30 years, I've earned the right not to worry about other peoples feelings too much. On an open forum though, the words you post are who you are so I try to so I'm a lot more careful.

S

 Well since the problem has been solved and if I may add...

I find that Barry is actually quite easy to work with on problems. He is thorough and does not waver much. He does understand and I laugh when others complain about his stubbornness.

 Now we all have people that we bash with at times. I think John had made a simple statement that needed to be retracted. Of course he just bashed Barry for correcting him. Ah well, who am I to point out flaws? 

Sorry Joe, but I don't see where anything I said needed to be retracted.  The mystery here is how you managed to construe that I was bashing Barry, I don't know how you arrived that that destination.

Interesting post, and I am glad Lee is getting the parts.  One thing I think needs to be considered if going to a wired tether on this engine is the access ports don't really support it.  I have found that vertical loop is necessary especially on tight curves.  So unless you want to go with 6 loose wires and some connector plug in the middle of draw bar, you would need to cut out access on the engine and tender to have a tether setup like the PS-2.

As far as connector goes, many folks don't have problems with the drawbar, but they are easy to damage the tender side connector if attached blindly.  The best way to connect them is to lay them on a towel on the side and connect while you can see what you are doing.  It will lock in place.  I think too many folks connect these with the engine on the track and can't see the connection as it is made.  Either the connector is not snapped into place, or the side of the connector gets distorted and than doesn't hold well.   G

Laying it on it's side and connecting it is exactly how I finally figured to make the connection for these drawbars.  I haven't had any issues once they're connected, it's just getting them connected that's a PITA.

Pity it is a PITA, but it is - a gigantic one.   I don't like it at all on the bigger MTH steamers.  On the 2-8-8 or the 999 4-4-0, its okay if still a pain.  But on the biggfer locos, once you get the connection made (in itself not the easiest thing to do) you have to pick up loco and tender together to set them on the track: they weigh a lot and the loco often has a lot of delicate parts and that coupler itself looks and feels as if, if you aren't careful, you could twist it apart right then and there.  I'm always a bit nervous doing it.  

You are so right Lee, I just grit my teeth and do it.

#1) I must be doing something different. I connect the engine while it's on the track.

2) I don't see....

take another sip of your coffee and sit back.   I was just responding to his post, not suggesting it was a good idea.

or

Why do you have your panties in a bunch over this?

 I would expect more respect from a poster who digs for info here and asks questions from others, than who replies like this.

 If you just answered back to Barry, that would be different.

All is well that ends well.  Patrick;s Trains saw this thread and ordered and sent me the parts.  It is repaired now.  

I really appreciate Patrick doing that.  I'll buy all future locos through them if they carry them.  

All's well that ends well Lee, glad to see you got it back on the rails.

Lee, now you can design and drag a magnetic car behind the engine, following the original route and find those parts in the tunnel  G

Lee, once you design and build the car George has suggested you can take a shot at designing a BRASS magnet car...    

Best,

Dave 

Sure, I sincerely appreciate it.  BTW - if you have any MTH Imperial Triplexes coming, set one aside for me.  25.5 inches, 24 drivers: has to be some kind of record.

Best regards, 

Lee