in airplanes we have a master switch that kills all electrical at once.
I just wondered if anyone has used an emergency button that would shut off all power.
|
in airplanes we have a master switch that kills all electrical at once.
I just wondered if anyone has used an emergency button that would shut off all power.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
in airplanes we have a master switch that kills all electrical at once.
I just wondered if anyone has used an emergency button that would shut off all power.
The TMCC CAB-1 remote has an Emergency Halt button. My layout also has all power running through a power strip / surge protector with a single ON/OFF switch.
These probably aren't what you're talking about, right?
George
My transformers and TIU's are plugged in to power strips, that are controlled by a wall switch, that's my Kill switch.
I run optokills in my gassers, but the layout has a master breaker right next to transformer that kills all power. Just Incase the kids get a little crazy with the throttle.
I have a rather cumbersome layout to move around quickly. Even though my DCS Emergency Off has worked 100% of the time, I often wonder if I go to use it some time in the future will the remote give me the dreaded TIU not found or some other error which would not kill the power.
I have been thinking of placing a few of these buttons strategically placed around the layout.
But I've just been thinking... doing is a whole other subject.
Ron
I have a big powerstrip with a smaller one plugged into it .One switch turns everything on and off. This powers 2 Z-4000,s 1- ZW ,and 2- Z,s.
Everything is plugged into a surge protector/power strip with a master switch on it. That is all I use.
I was just rearranging some things on my control panel, including moving wiring terminal blocks to a more hidden position. That hidden position just so happens to be the spot where my right knee is when I'm sitting there. I've already fired my knee right into that spot multiple times to yank wires out killing the action. Anticipate another terminal block move in the coming days.....
Lutron Electronics (where I work) makes a 15 Amp relay module with cord and a j-box mounted 16 Amp relay module. Both work on our Clear Connect RF technology. So I have a single Pico remote control that turns the entire layout on and off.
Dad has a Pico for each main section of the layout and a single master Pico that does the whole layout. Too often the trains will end up in reverse when the grandkids hit the orange button...
Yes, I have 5 control panels with 10 power sources on one circuit along 135 feet of linear around the basement wall point to point layout with one red illuminated kill switch centrally located.
Yes, definitely.
We have four on the club layout. Push a red button and power to the entire layout is cut off at the 110VAC source. We've only hit one once intentionally as I can recall. However, we've had a couple of visiting kids hit them on a few occasions. No words have to be said when they see what happens.
Yes I have a master power switch, but the room is so large and my arms aren't 40 feet long. I need a better way than having a master "power person" stationed by the switch. Even though I use TMCC, the halt feature doesn't work because I don't use any of the Lionel power equipment. What I really need is local kill switches to power down just the section where a derailment has occurred.
My Lionel ZW-L runs all my track, and I have it programmed on my Legacy remote, so the Halt button kills power to all the track instantly. And yes, a switch on a power strip is under the table edge as well that will do that and the accessories as well. That is where I normally power everything up for a session, but I control the ZW-L power levels through the Legacy remote.
Several people have reported using a switch such as this to remotely turn off the power
I use a thing I got at Lowes intended to time and turn off Christmas lights, but it has a remote as well to turn on and off manually - similar to the WoodRiver device, but much less expensive (~$20). It supposedly handles 15A. I can kill layout power from anywhere in the room.
TMCC halt button has never failed me.
And the bricks are plugged into a single power strip.
Just the button on power strip for me
Same thing, power strip. Found this nice Belkin metal power strip that uses standard outlets at Home Depot. The outlets are spaced far enough apart that wall warts won't interfere with each other. Unfortunately no longer to be found at HD. Oh and even though it has surge protection, does not interfere with TMCC.
Deal with those red emergency stop buttons is being able to control 120Vac and still be to NEC electrical code. But yes, use them at work (not for 120Vac, they are on 24VDC PLC type circuits).
GV,
Barry B and I long ago in a thread started in the DCS section, discussed seveal remote packages and Barry found and recommended using the Etekcity Remote Outlet Switches, the 5LX comes with 5 remote programmable outlets, and 2 remote controls, I bought 2 packs giving me 4 remotes to place around the full layout, works like a charm, I have one on the main and use several others for stuff like the Christmas Tree lights, outside lights, and platform housing lights, this set up works like a charm, especially for immediate train shutdown. You maybe still able to reference the old thread using the OGR search.
PCRR/Dave
I've seen one on a layout (Fellow forum member's.) and he very strongly suggested I do the same when I get to build mine, which I plan to do.
My ZW and accessory transformers are plugged into a powerstrip which plugged into a Wireless Outdoor Outlet Receiver. It is sold to be used for Christmas lights. It comes with a Fob that has a on/off button. It is a handy quick way to turn off all power.
Steve
I use the same master pilot switch that Dewey showed. It works great.
I just use the DCS emergency stop on the remote, shuts down all track power
All power (trains, switches, & accessories) is routed through two power strip/surge protectors which are plugged into a wireless receiver, that is grounded and plugged into a grounded wall outlet. I have a fob on a lanyard which is always around my neck so, if need be, I can "kill" everything in an instant. When operation is over, I just lay the fob at the same spot on the layout until the next time trains are up and running. The entire layout is wired for TMCC. Rarely do I even touch the transformers, whether beginning or ending an operating session. Works like a charm and has done so for eighteen years.
Its on my list of things to instal
Yep, I use one of those wall plug/remote set-ups similar to several above. $15 at Home Depot.
I have a small remote control switch that is portable and turns my entire layout on/off.
I have two sets of three remote control outlets (also from Home Depot), with two remote controls. Five of the six outlets are for local power supplies, strategically placed around the layout (33-ft x 38-ft) to feed accessories, lights, and signals.
The sixth remote outlet supplies power to the two ZW-L's that power the track. I carry with me the control for that remote outlet 'main power', and more than once have used it to kill all track power.
Alex
Yes I have a master power switch, but the room is so large and my arms aren't 40 feet long. I need a better way than having a master "power person" stationed by the switch. Even though I use TMCC, the halt feature doesn't work because I don't use any of the Lionel power equipment. What I really need is local kill switches to power down just the section where a derailment has occurred.
Our layout has a high-current latch that's triggered from two green (ON) buttons and four red (OFF) buttons, the mindset being emergency stop should be more accessible. A similar setup should work nicely for you. A zone approach would also work well, but we opted against that because Murphy's law states that you'll be at the other end of the layout when something goes wrong. Basically, the latch needs to be able to support a 20-AMP 110VAC circuit.
Remote-controlled power outlets would also work well provided you have the remote handy.
Matt, I've actually considered something like that. The only drawback is, when having an operating session, the master kill concept is very disruptive. That's why I'm leaning toward the local solution.
BTW, as of right now, it looks like my wife and I will be out your way and plan to hit the club's open house on Sunday May 17th, probably mid to late afternoon, on our drive between SD and LA. I'll keep you posted.
YES! Learned the hard way! Bought mine at Lowes, put the remote on a shoestring and wear it around my neck, I have two power strips plugged into it, one push and the entire layout is off.
Uncle Al
GV,
Barry B and I long ago in a thread started in the DCS section, discussed seveal remote packages and Barry found and recommended using the Etekcity Remote Outlet Switches, the 5LX comes with 5 remote programmable outlets, and 2 remote controls, I bought 2 packs giving me 4 remotes to place around the full layout, works like a charm, I have one on the main and use several others for stuff like the Christmas Tree lights, outside lights, and platform housing lights, this set up works like a charm, especially for immediate train shutdown. You maybe still able to reference the old thread using the OGR search.
PCRR/Dave
I believe these only handle 10A Max per outlet.
YES!
Even tho I have DCS and could use the Red button on it;
I bought a power strip with remote on/off at Home Depot.
Works great every time. Cheap protection for the layout.
Also has some outlets that are not switched off for lighting but I'm not using those.
Emergency E-Stop Circuit and Circuit Breaker Protection:
I have constructed a Dual Channel circuit protection panel with built in remote "E-Stop" circuits. This panel provides for two channels with a 10 ampere circuit breaker per channel. Along with the circuit breaker protection I also have a "remote" E-Stop circuit which allows a "shut down" of all power to 2 input channels of my MTH TIU. I can have 4 (or more) E-Stop "pushbuttons" located around the perimeter of my layout which allow for emergency shutdown of power to the layout.
Note 1: I power 2 input channels to my TIU from an MTH Z4000 and a separate Z750 brick for AUX power to the TIU. The E-Stop circuit includes a relay circuit which "trips" both TIU input channels whenever an E-Stop button is pressed. The E-Stops allow immediate shutdown of power to the track without the need to shutdown the TIU using the controller. A built in Reset button on the panel restores power.
Note 2: I also have individual circuit breaker protection for the TIU outputs to the track using another custom made panel.
I also use a wireless remote to "trip" these same circuits.
On my control system I have incorporated a wireless device into my emergency track power shutdown system. For my control system track power can be interrupted without the need to disable my DCS system.
Note: This system just removes power to the track. Since my TIU is powered separately using the AUX input the DCS system stays "live" unless the "aux" power is removed or via shutdown from the DCS remote.
The Westek model RFK306LC is a convenient wireless controller that can be used to shutdown power to track and other accessories. The Westek model is a controller that is operated using a wireless remote control pushbutton unit.
My emergency shutdown system also includes 4 E-Stop control stations mounted around my layout. Any one of these buttons will also remove track power.
Westek Model RFK306LC Device Description:
Conveniently control devices via remote control with the Westek Outdoor Wireless Remote Receiver Kit. This receiver kit uses wireless signals to allow you to turn connected electrical lighting and equipment on and off by the simple push of a button up to 80 ft. away. This kit includes a remote control, a plug-in receiver and batteries.
Available at Home Depot
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership