I have MTH realtrax on my layout right now but I have to take my 12 x 16 layout down for remodeling and will relocate it in another room. I run 2 trolleys and 3 trains on this layout with many accessories so not looking forward to taking it apart. I really like the realism of the Atla O 3 rail with brown ties. Who out ther has either of these? What are some pros & cons of them? Thank you for any of your feedback you can give me.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Hi Donna,
About two years ago, I built my layout with Realtrax. Then I tore it all up, sold it and replaced with Atlas 3-rail. I've never been happier. Only problem is, I want to expand and there is hardly any Atlas track available. I've read on this forum that Atlas has changed manufacturers. I have zero problems with the Atlas switches, but I don't use their switch Motors. I use the DZ-2600 motors and love 'em...I've had zero problems with them.
George (G3)
I replaced my Grargraves with Atlas and am very happy with it. It can be delicate, so it's not made for a floor layout or constant change, but, once laid, regular cleaning is about you need to do.
George: try ETO (Electric Train outlet) in St. Louis; I was there a few days ago, and he had Atlas in stock--I don't know quantities, but it seemed like a lot. He ships, but he is close to full retail on many things. I didn't check prices, but I seem to remember his being not TOO bad when I bought track several years ago.
Here are some pictures of my Atlas track
A lot depends on the visual look you desire for your overall layout. RealTrax and Fastrack are both good for a 'toy' or conventional 3 rail look. If you want to move towards a more realistic appearance then your choices are (alphabetically) Atlas, Gargraves/ Ross, and ScaleTrax. All three are great systems.
Here are some pictures of my Atlas track
Hi Donna,
About two years ago, I built my layout with Realtrax. Then I tore it all up, sold it and replaced with Atlas 3-rail. I've never been happier. Only problem is, I want to expand and there is hardly any Atlas track available. I've read on this forum that Atlas has changed manufacturers. I have zero problems with the Atlas switches, but I don't use their switch Motors. I use the DZ-2600 motors and love 'em...I've had zero problems with them.
George (G3)
Thank you George! That is helpful info.
I replaced my Grargraves with Atlas and am very happy with it. It can be delicate, so it's not made for a floor layout or constant change, but, once laid, regular cleaning is about you need to do.
George: try ETO (Electric Train outlet) in St. Louis; I was there a few days ago, and he had Atlas in stock--I don't know quantities, but it seemed like a lot. He ships, but he is close to full retail on many things. I didn't check prices, but I seem to remember his being not TOO bad when I bought track several years ago.
Excellent! I will check out ETO. thank you for your help.
I have had Atlas track for about 3 years and I really like it. I use Atlas track, switches and switch machines. I have had no problems with any Atlas items I have purchased new. I have had a few problems with some switches that I purchased used. I have both DCS and Legacy and the track performs very well with both systems. I seldom clean it as it seems to work just as well dirty as it does clean. I have some track I purchased used that was fairly dirty and needed cleaning when I got it. It worked so well it has yet to been cleaned.
My LHS has recently been getting some track items from Atlas, so maybe the supply of track will start getting better. They have changed manufacturers, they recently sent out a letter explaining this to everyone subscribing to their email updates list. I need some switches myself, and I think I prefer new from now on, so I am waiting as well.
Donna D-H,
When my twins and I started building our layout almost 2 years ago we chose Atlas O over GarGraves because to us it looks a lot more realistic. And we chose it over Scaletrax because it both looks more like main line and, at least at that time, it offered a lot more turnout and sectional curve radius options.
Having said all that, the most important feature to consider is electrical conductivity. I've gone to a lot of extra trouble (maybe overkill) crimping each and every track connector to help ensure a very tight fit so that the tiny amount of each connector that touches rail has every chance to carry current from section to section. Maybe the electrical guys can weigh in here, but each Scaletrax section has a large copper pressure clip that presses firmly against the correlating pressure clip on the next track section, which would appear to create a large electrical contact surface and very firm electrical connection from section to section. something to consider...
Peter
Donna D-H,
I look at this in a different way, IMO unless you are a rivet counter, I would stay with RealTrax or FasTrack, even for a permanent larger layout. I have little use for realism when constructing my Tin Plate layouts, however if you want to go in that direction more power to ya. Instead of changing track I would transition in and out of wireless Command Control low voltage FasTrack switches, that can be operated from a Legacy Cab2 or a TMCC Cab1 hand held remote control. IMO Atlas switches are nothing but major problems, unless you use the dz controllers, and why go thru all that when FT CC switches are 100% reliable for running all the different kinds of trains, including Tin Plate.
Atlas does have some nice Industrial Rail track, that CC FT switches work well with also.
PCRR/Dave
Not everyone believes realism when constructing toy train layouts is a step forward, especially us Tin Plate Train people.
Peter, no matter how tightly you crimped the joiners I would not rely on them for electrical connection only for a mechanical connection. Over time they may loosen up and cause electrical gremlins that may make you want to pull your hair out. Each track should have it's own electrical connection to an electrical bus. If using DCS you should follow DCS specific wring instructions.
ScaleTrax was mentioned above and it is one of the better systems for several reasons. Visually, it has qualities that are hard to beat due to the fact that it has the lowest profile (rail height) of any 3 rail system which gives our models a more massive appearance. Ross, Gargraves and even Atlas are much too large overall to be proportionally realistic. GG and Ross are just way too big and Atlas is better but the rails themselves are too big and give the track a 'clunky' or crowded appearance. Not so ScaleTrax. It's main detrimental quality is that the scale sized ties are too far apart and don't look like main line tracks. Alas, they all have a compromise in their appearance.
If you want realism in your layout Have a look at this photo which clearly illustrates what 'normal' sized rail in the real world looks like and then picture one of the other track systems scaled up - the rails would probably be close to 2' tall!
If not, then Fastrack is likely your best choice.
Atlas and Scaletrax are solid rail which means quiet running trains (some type of road bed (cork, vinyl, soft foam, Homasote, etc. still recommended). Fastrack and Realtrax are hollow rail (tubular) on a built in hollow plastic road bed which means noisy. Many have reported using carpet or other items to quiet the Fastrack and Realtrax. Road beds mentioned above may or may not fit these track systems? Scaletrax is nice, but their selection of curves and switches is pretty limited compared to most of the others.
I had already planned a layout with Fastrack when I discovered how noisy it was. I had previously used Realtrax from a couple of MTH sets I had purchased. Just had not realized the Fastrack would be as loud as the Realtrax. Fortunately I had not purchased much Fastrackt and was able to easily switch to Atlas after discovering that I was not going to like the noise. Since then I have learned from reading here on the OGR forum that many have found several ways to quiet it down considerably.
When discovering the high noise level on the Fastrack, I then started researching all the different track systems. After much consideration I had narrowed it down to solid rail, Atlas or Scaletrax. I went with Atlas because I preferred the look of it and there was a much larger selection of curves and switches available. Bought a loop of it to try out and that did it for me, I was happy. Many others here have done the same comparisons and reached a totally different conclusion, selecting something different.
So, with all these other track systems now in the mix, if you have a local hobby shop or train store, probably the best thing to do would be to go there and look at the different track types and see them for yourself (if you haven't already done that). Narrow your selections and purchase a loop of track to try out. If you like it, you are set, if not you can sell it here on the For Sale forum and probably come out ok on the sale freeing up the funds to try another track system. To me this is much better than buying a lot of one kind of track only to find out later that you would have preferred something different. I think all the current track systems available are good ones, they can all be installed to provide good performance on a layout. The choice of system is really a personal one based on personal preference.
Another thing to watch for: When I had Realtrax, there really wasn't any way that the style of track would line of the rails where the tracks joined. I had several joints I had to twist lightly with a pair of pliers to line them up. I've noticed that Scaletrax is somewhat the same way. When installing Atlas track, the rail joiner lines up the rails nicely, so you never get a bump when the trains cross that joint. Did I install wrong? Has anyone else noticed this? I'm now thinking Scaletrax for my 2nd level because I can't fine any Atlas track I need, so it's important when choosing this style of track.
George (G3)
Hi Donna.
All track systems have some shortcoming or another, so be prepared for that.
Personally, I'm not a big fan of using plastic-ballast track (FasTrack and RealTrax) on tabletop layouts because it's difficult, but not impossible, to cut down the noise. We started with Gargraves at the club and went to Atlas for all new alignments because of the solid rail and better tie size and apearance. We stuck with Ross turnouts though. My personal preference for turnout motors is using Tortoise motors because of their flexibility, even though they can be a pain to set up sometimes.
My permanent layout will be MTH ScaleTrax (because of the tie height and rail spacing. I'm tossing the turnout motors and throw switches because those area MAJOR shortcoming. Some modification may need to be done on the turnouts because the closure rails may make contact with the frog and cause the pickup roller to spark. A minor fix. Here's what the track looks like with a little ballast tossed on (a micro/display layout I did for the OGR contest back in 2013).
One piece of the puzzle this thread didn't review. Gargraves track and Ross Switches. Gargraves may be the least expensive track available. Ross Switches may be the most reliable. Both match and can be ballasted to look well. Fort Pitt High-Railer layout.
Ballast in from Brummy. A colored, rubber crumb, ballast.
Midwest cork road bed is used under the track.
ModelMaster Railroad tie brown has been air brushed on the sides of the Rail.
The Three way switch pictured, is a Ross 204 switch with two DZ 1000 switch motors.
Gargraves website Most dealers would stock Gargrave track. Dealer locator Click on the underlined phrases to access links. Both Gargraves products and
Ross Switches/Ross Track are manufactured here. Ross is a forum sponsor. 
Best wishes with your project.
I'm now thinking Scaletrax for my 2nd level because I can't fine any Atlas track I need, so it's important when choosing this style of track.
George (G3)
Just a thought, but if you can, maybe wait a few more weeks (if you still want Atlas that is). My LHS has had a few things trickle in from Atlas that they have been out of for quite a long time. A 2-rail switch someone had on order, some track sections, switch machines, #57 switch controllers and maybe some other items. I had switch machines on order for several months and they finally came in recently. Also, I believe they have all their HO and N track and supplies back in stock. I don't know, but it looks promising. I want to get some more also, but I am going to wait.
Something not mentioned here yet about ScaleTrax is the beauty of the flex track which can somewhat compensate for the limited radii in the sectional curves produced. The flex is very easy to work with (just like HO flex) and gives you almost unlimited radii.
Gargraves nd Ross are excellent but to many, are too large to give a good visual effect if you're after realism in proportion with the trains.
Donna, I am a proponent of ScaleTrax and had a nice layout using it for several years. There are several very good layouts around the country with a couple of one them built by forum members Dave & Ted Hikel and also Rich Battista. Rich has several neat videos on the construction of his 'Black Diamond RR' on his website Toy Trains on Tracks .com. His videos are very entertaining to watch and he goes step by step showing how to use ScaleTrax to achieve a great operating RR. Suggest you have a look for yourself and ponder what you see. :-)
I looked at both Atlas and Scaltrax and went with Atlas, Scaltrax had no rail joiners for the flex track and if I remember right, what they had they were some thing like $3.00 each. I would have prefered the scaltrax due to the lower cost of the track, switches and I think the turnouts included the motor.
After invested a lot in AtlasI discovered that a code 250 rail joiner works great on the scaltrx track
I looked at both Atlas and Scaltrax and went with Atlas, Scaltrax had no rail joiners for the flex track and if I remember right, what they had they were some thing like $3.00 each. I would have prefered the scaltrax due to the lower cost of the track, switches and I think the turnouts included the motor.
After invested a lot in AtlasI discovered that a code 250 rail joiner works great on the scaltrx track
Bob, Can you give me a little more info? Where could I find those 250 rail joiners? I've only been able to find insulated ones. Are they used to connect Scaletrax pieces or Scaletrax to Atlas? Any answers would get me going.
Thanks,
George (G3)
everyone that thinks scaletrax is so great,make sure you point out how many switches are made for scaletrax. theres 031,072,#4 and#6 afaik. compared to ross or atlas ,thats not much. theres much more curve radius choices in ross,atlas.-jim
I beleive I got them from Llagas Creek Railways
Regarding the limited number of turnouts, in my opion, how many different sizes do you need, all I use are #5 and 104 and 100 on the curves
One big problem with Atlas turnout's is the electrical problems, if you don't put jumpers on ever rail there is a good chance you will be burning the internal wire in the switch. Try to tell that to Atlas and they will not even responed about the question!!! there 2 rail turn outs are not much better, run a 4-8-4 through the curve part of the turnout and there is a good chance of the out side rail coming loose.
One big problem with Atlas turnout's is the electrical problems, if you don't put jumpers on ever rail there is a good chance you will be burning the internal wire in the switch. Try to tell that to Atlas and they will not even responed about the question!!! there 2 rail turn outs are not much better, run a 4-8-4 through the curve part of the turnout and there is a good chance of the out side rail coming loose.
I can only speak from my own experience, but I have had none of the problems with Atlas 3 rail switches that you describe here. The smaller jumpers may have been a problem early on, but I think it was addressed after being discovered. I have some very old switches and the wires under the switches were smaller than they are now. I have no experience with their 2 rail switches.
The only problems I have had with Atlas switches were with some I had purchased used. The throw bars, throw bar linkage, springs and switch machines needed some work. Other than that I have had no problems with them. All Atlas 3 rail switches I have purchased new have operated flawlessly, without a problem. They also came with switch machines.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
