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I use plain old #4 flathead wood screws available in various lengths at any hardware or box store.  A spot of flat black or brown paint or felt tip marker gets rid of the bright galvanized finish super fast.  Unless I use 18 ga. bright wire nails (brads).  I don't think they're that bright.  No need to paint them , at least on GarGraves wooden ties.  They sorta' kinda' blend right in, at least in my opinion.

I think the Atlas screws are actually #3 and that type of #3 screws are almost impossible to find. #4 screws are much easier to find such as the Gargraves screws. Gargraves screws also come in 3 or 4 different lengths. The reason many folks use these, as I recall they also cost less.

I used Atlas screws on my layout and they worked well as long as I didn't remove them and try to re-use them in a new location that had no previous hole. Either the head or screw would often break. 

For re-using them I had much better results drilling a pilot hole before screwing them in. On first use I seldom drilled pilot holes, just screwed them in, but drilling a pilot hole for every screw would help. If you already have some, this might make them easier to use.

 Not every screwdriver works well on train related screws. I have multiple sets fromSnap On, MAC, Wiha, Moody, Vessel and a few other. Even though they look like they all should work.  A while back I bought a set of JIS screwdrivers made by Hozan. These look like a Phillips but have a slightly different tip. The 2nd smallest in the set seems to work well with the Atlas screws. I believe I got them on Amazon for under $20.00.

tynaskos posted:

Looking for other recommendations for screws  when installing Atlas O Track.  I purchased the Atlas #6094 Screws, but not having good luck using them.

Thx,

Ray

 

 

 

Small pilot hole.  Should be easy after that.  I did that for the entire layout.  I used a vinyl flex bed.  That was the impetus for the pilot hole.  The screw grabbed the vinyl if I did not drill pilot holes.

Two notes. I have an extensive amount of track and almost all of it is Atlas.

1. I found a supplier of screws that are exactly like Atlas but come in two longer lengths. USE THE CORRECT SCREWDRIVER!

2. An even better way to affix the track is Carpet tape. It is double sided. Comes clear or white. Is easy to install and easy to remove track (but slowly). 99% of my layout is held down with carpet tape and I have NEVER had a problem. DO NOT carpet tape switches, Taping the track on the three tracks coming off it will hold it and allow it to work easily. Also you can Ballast it or not. I will get up to the layout this evening and get the name of the screw manufacturer. I found them at York and use them near my removable bridges and lift gate for an extra safety bonus to the carpet tape. You never know when someone not as careful as myself removes them and might snag the track.

Greg,

To add to what you said which I completely agree with, I used either #3 or #4 screws when the layout was built and my ballast is glued down.  My layout is all flex track, so as it was being laid, pre ballasting I wanted to make sure I had it secure.  After ballasting and the glue dried the screws were removed.

John

The Atlas screws are a very soft metal.  Not readily suited for the intended purpose. Best discarded IMO.

When hand screwing Phillip+ screws in a hard to turn situation  either removing or installing,   I prefer to turn approx. 90 +/- degees then reset the driver with a  5 degree opposite turn to regain a bottom seat and then continue to drive/reset, drive reset, etc etc.

This action can preserve the X slots and the Phillip's tip.  I also frequently discard tips due to wear.  Nothing like a new tip.

My 3 rail portion is GG & Ross.  I either use 18 ga brads hand set in pre-drilled tie holes or a brad gun w/soft air pressure.  Brad fastened track is somewhat easy to remove and reset.  Screws can become a hassle after a while.

CurtisH posted:

1. I found a supplier of screws that are exactly like Atlas but come in two longer lengths. USE THE CORRECT SCREWDRIVER!

Would you mind sharing your source for the longer #3 screws?  I might be needing some of those one of these days. I have some of the longer Gargraves screws, but still prefer the #3s over the #4s. I have not been able to find any of these anywhere.

Last edited by rtr12
rtr12 posted:
CurtisH posted:

1. I found a supplier of screws that are exactly like Atlas but come in two longer lengths. USE THE CORRECT SCREWDRIVER!

Would you mind sharing your source for the longer #3 screws?  I might be needing some of those one of these days. I have some of the longer Gargraves screws, but still prefer the #3s over the #4s. I have not been able to find any of these anywhere.

When I checked my longer ones they were Gargraves and it specifically says on the package to drill ties with 1/8 drill bit so ties do not split. Hence one more reason why I like carpet tape!

The atlas screws have a smaller head than the gargraves, but they are harder to use.  For use in plywood, I drilled pilot holes and used a proper sized screwdriver (I use a WIHA PH1 size) or driver bit (#1 or PH1).  Use a slow speed electric screwdriver, keep the bit at 90 degrees and lots of pressure on the bit.  I stripped plenty of heads before figuring this out.

I use gargraves screws as well. They are much more forgiving, but more noticeable. 

Bob

I only use Atlas track screws #6094. There are 48 in a bag. I must have installed 9 or 10 bags worth on my new layout. Out of all those screws, I may have had 2 or 3 that I stripped the heads or broke thru my carelessness. I have not tried to reuse them. If I take one out, I toss it and use a new one. 

I drill a 1/16" hole (thru the wood tie if using Ross or  Gargraves) followed by a hit with the next larger drill to accommodate the unthreaded portion of the shank going thru the wood tie. I use a driver to install followed by a final tightening with a hand driver. I use a Dewalt bit, not sure of the size, maybe a #0 or 00. The screws are long enough for the tie and cork thickness plus a decent bite into the plywood subroadbed. I use multiple drills and drivers to avoid constantly changing bits.

Here is a pic with a section of Atlas track. I do not bother to remove them after ballasting. 

Donald

IMG_0747

 

 

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Last edited by 3rail

You might want to try these from Amazon.  They are a metric screw, M2.6 mm by 20 mm long.

https://www.amazon.com/Tapping...&sr=1-8&th=1

They are 1000 pieces for $35.50 + $5.01 shipping.  You can also get M2.3 mm diameter.

Jan

Edit:  M2.5 is also available.  Screws are basically half of what Atlas charges.

ebay has them too and cheaper

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M2-5-...p2060353.m1438.l2649

Last edited by Jan
gunrunnerjohn posted:
CurtisH posted:

1. I found a supplier of screws that are exactly like Atlas but come in two longer lengths. USE THE CORRECT SCREWDRIVER!

And you're not sharing this source why?

I answered your question of supplier a few comments above your question. They were Gargrave screws but ties need to be drilled before installing or they will split. Hence one of the reasons why I like carpet tape. Sorry for the confusion.

 

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