Atlas track without sub roadbed

My club (Florida Citrus Model Train Society) used Atlas track on painted 3/8" plywood decks for their modules, which are 48" long by 31-1/2" deep, perimeter framed with 1x4's, standing on 2x2 legs. Since all of the modules are built w/o roadbed, I have no real comparison, but I doubt if the noise level is much different, especially if tracks are screwed down and ballasted with both types of construction. I do know that using extruded styrofoam board as a layout deck rather than plywood can be much noisier. A friend has both types on his HO layout, and there is an audible difference when the train crosses from one surface to the other. The foam is much noisier.

Bill in FtL

All I can tell you is I ran my Atlas O track temporarily on plywood and the noise was almost enough to ruin the experience. Once I put Homasote down and then put tile underlayment under my track(to lift it up so when ballasted it looked more prototypical) the trains were so quiet I could hear the click...click...click as the wheels would hit the switches. Amazing difference.

Home layout had green carpet on 1/2 inch ply with Homasote roadbed covered with grey carpet. In keeping with the carpet layout idea.  The sound of the click clack was fantastic.

All else was extremely quiet.

By the way, the stuff under the ties is roadbed. Subroadbed is an additional layer that would be put under that for a more realistic effect.

An example is HO track laid on HO cork roadbed on O cork roadbed. There is a realistic stepped effect.

i had the same experience as virginian....instead of tile un. ,i use cork.-jim

Ive a question about Atlas track.

Is there a connector track that will connect Atlas track to

Lionel O gauge Tubular track??

Do not... I say DO NOT.. place track on bare plywood.  As Virginian noted, the result will ruin the experience -- and you may never even run the trains much as a result.    And what fun is that!

Some of the best sound-proofing methods I've seen usually involve some type of carpet buffer between the roadbed and plywood material:  either carpet itself or carpet under-padding.  You KNOW you've achieved the desired results when you only hear the "clickity-clack" of wheels over the rail joints (when you silence the Railsounds, of course).  

David

Yes, Atlas has adaptors.  Makes it really simple.

http://shop.atlasrr.com/p-2566...iners-6-blister.aspx

I run my Atlas O Track (38'x20') directly on 3/4" plywood. I have to turn the sound off on my trains so you can hear the accessories. and you can hear the click clack of the wheels on the rails. I also don't screw down every section of track, just the curves. 

For us old dudes, we still remember the old style phonograph players.  The way the sound was generated was a needle dragging on the groves in the record!  What has this to do with the topic at hand, well SCREWING down your track to a PLYWOOD table is making your PLYWOOD into a sound generator!  YOU WILL NOT LIKE IT!  I temporarily screw the tracks down while the GLUE is drying then I remove all of the screws.  I use either foam or cork or some sort of underlayment that is glued to the plywood.  I have even used that cheap crumbly foam stuff for under carpets! Once the layout is built the next biggest sound deadener is DRAPING or SKIRTING your benchwork.  This TRAPS the sound under the layout.  Have fun!   Russ

thanks!!!

I have some Atlas track directly on 1/2" plywood on Mianne bench work right now. It's definitely louder than with no roadbed, but I think it's still quieter than Realtrax on plywood. I haven't had my Realtrax out for a while though, so memories could be off a little there?

To me it doesn't get too bad until you have a long train going above maybe 25-35 smph, then it gets pretty loud, and of course, more trains more noise. I am using Flexxbed, but I don't have enough to do the whole layout yet, got to order some more here pretty soon so I can get that all installed.

I wouldn't recommend a permanent layout like this, would definitely put something under the track, no matter what kind you have.

I probably did a little bit of overkill on my layout, but the result was very quiet running trains.

First I cut some floor underlayment and glued it to the frame work.

Then attached the plywood with minimal drywall screws on each corner, one or two on each side and one in the center.

Then glued the 2" styrofoam on top with Liquid Nails For Projects adhesive and used Woodland Scenics foam roadbed under the tracks.

Here is a cross section of the construction: Frame, underlayment, plywood, styrofoam, foam roadbed and track.

The roadbed and track are fastened to the layout with Two-Sided Carpet Tape.  No screws at all to hold the track.  Trains are as quiet as a church mouse.  With engine sounds off just the clickety-clack and a few squeaky wheels is all you hear.

My layout with Atlas O track is extremely quiet - my tabletop is 3/4" MDF and noting else.  All of my track is screwed down; some of it is under Flexxbed and some is directly on the tabletop - all is quiet.

Brian,

That is very clever and one of the most effective ways to isolate the deck noise transmission. Not over the top. I will add that to my knowledge base.

I have found a use for a product in permanent layouts. It is 2mm floor underlayment intended for use under laminate or hardware wood floors. Its sound absorption qualities are very high, but it won't work well on top of the deck. It would be perfect for this application.

Thanks!

Well done!!!

Moonman, if the 2mm floor underlayment doesn't work well on top of the deck, where does it work, under the plywood/mdf ? 

Mike 

It works for me on top, because I do winter. Alaska and Polar Express. I use white felt over it, fit like a pool table cover with 3M 80 spray adhesive on the perimeter. I did test it with white glue and typical scenery material and it seems to hold. I would just be concerned about the flexing.

I have FasTrack LCCA modules.

I happen to have a flooring distributor nearby that carries the product. Home Depot stopped carrying it and I don't like their current products. Product brochure attached.

My Atlas track is laid over 1/2" homasote  glued to 1/2" plywood, all trackwork is ballasted using glue only, no screws. It is relatively quiet. After installing curtains around the bottom of the benchwork, the sound was noticeably reduced! good luck, Clifford

That's interesting, I hadn't thought of that. Another good thing to know about track noise reduction.

Just starting to lay track and hoping it all fits on the benchwork.  Wondering whether it would be better and/or easier to use homasote over plywood, then lay track over it in one shot, then wire.  If cork/flexxbed, I'm anticipating having to pick-up track and then lay the cork/flexxbed under it, then wire.  I'd appreciate some thoughts on this.

Thanks, Mike     

I have found it easier to lay the track over the Homasote, without using cork or foam roadbed. The track may not be as prototypicaly high, but still very realistic! Here is an example.

I used Mianne bench work at 40" high. Then laid all the track then wired it. I can't get under the layout without help, so I got a little mechanic's stool on wheels and I sit on that and scoot around underneath. It's just high enough that I clear with a slight duck at the cross connections. Can't do it for an extended period, but I can do it long enough to run a wire and stick it up through the top for connection to it's track or device.

I am using Flexxbed and didn't have enough to do the whole layout, or the funds to purchase the rest of it at the time (Christmas and some trains I had ordered depleted the budget for more train items for a while). I just wanted to get some trains running at the time. So now I have to go back and put it under the track when I get the rest of it. I don't think it will be that difficult, but my preferred method would have been to do it all at the same time. Getting ready to finish my road bed order and start that pretty soon.

I have not tried Homasote, but from what others have said it might be just fine to use that with no road bed and just put track right on top? Leave the wires a little long to the track feeders and if you don't like it you could always add the cork or other road bed later (as I will be doing), not ideal, but doable. 

I would opt the other way and just put cork roadbed on the ply.

Here's Norm Charbonneau's layout in progress. and a video of the test run. What do you hear?

of course, you could cut the homosote into roadbed. as Elliot does for his layout.

No real need to cover the entire deck with the stuff.