Attaching plywood to Mianne Benchwork

Drill pilot holes into the benchwork

In those situations I always used a small pilot bit to drill a hole for receiving the screws.

From the Mianne website. #2 Most FAQ.

2) Q. How do I attach the layout to the benchwork?  

A. We suggest attaching a plywood platform for a base using the hardware included with your kit. This method will allow you to easily remove the layout from the benchwork at a later time. Anyone who has ever tried to change a layout or had to move a layout can appreciate this easy method!  

Apparently there is attachment hardware.  

Parts list shows:

I would contact Mianne.  Click on the underlined phrase to link the Mianne website.      

Easy answer for me. I used the supplied hardware that came with it.

Thank you all. I will contact Tim, as that hardware was not in the kit I purchased.

I don't mean to hi jack this thread but to those that used the supplied hardware.

Do you have any tips on using them?

My first attempt to secure my top to the benchwork was very awkward and unsuccessful. 

Thanks!

Mark

Easy answer for me. I used the supplied hardware that came with it.

Same here, I only attached at the posts,works fine and is quiet.

Douglas

Is 1/2" plywood top as suggested with 1/4" cork sheet a good combo for quiet sturdy operation with ScaleTrax?

The included hardware is a plastic angle clip similar to the one banjoflyer posted above. Both holes are elongated for adjustment. Along with the angle brackets, they supply 1/2" long, Phillips, pan head, sharp pointed screws that are self drilling into wood, no plot holes required. The assembly instructions show where to locate them which is on the legs, then you fasten them to the plywood top. You can install these on the legs before installing the top, then you only have half the amount of screws to install from below. You can also position the brackets even with the top of the leg and framework to insure the top is held tight to the framework.

All fastening of the 1/2" (or larger) plywood top is done from below the layout, not down through the top. This allows you to take it apart at a later time (if you ever re-locate) with minimal disruption to the items, track, buildings, scenery or whatever you have fastened to the top during the construction of your layout. It is a very well designed and thought out system.

Yeah, I'd just echo what rtr12 has mentioned. I put mine together a while ago and as I recall it was pretty easy. Although I did not put the bracket clips on the legs before the plywood top which is actually a good suggestion now that I think about it. It's a little tight working in the corners underneath but very doable.

I had an issue of two pieces of plywood not really fitting together snugly where they met at the "seam" so I took some small wood screws and carefully put them in from the top to get a tight and secure fit. Worked fine. Just have to be careful when drilling in from the top. I only used two I think.

Hi John • I drill a pilot hole, and use Exterior Deck Screws. Deck screws will not strip out, going in or out or break off. They are sold in several lengths.

Good Luck

I stand corrected; I do have those plastic angle pieces with my kit; I'm sure this will give a lot of you a good laugh, but I thought those were to go in the corners where the I-beams join together without legs. Good thing I didn't install them yet.

Thanks again

John 

Plywood?

I haven't used that stuff since the 1960's 

I used 2" pink foam on my Mianne bench work. Used wood glue to keep it in place. It is sturdy and plenty strong for I run scale steam and diesel locomotives. Makes a great base for scenery also.

What do you use instead of plywood for the base?

Album #57 of 58 –

https://steves3roscale.shutterfly.com/pictures/3168

1/8” lauan door skins over 1x2 T’s in a ladder configuration.

(Lauan, Philippine mahogany) Cheap, light weight and strong.

I had to give up the heavy stuff when I went portable in displaying layouts for train shows.

Everyone has pretty much covered the main points... Use the mounting hardware Mianne provides.  Make sure you check the deck of the Mianne benchwork to assure that it is level and that there is a nice level transition from one piece of plywood to the next.  I used 3/4" plywood for the table base.  Make sure that you place your carefully selected (looking for defects and lack of warpage (I looked warpage up in the dictionary... It's actually a noun!)) sheets of plywood as quickly as possible on the benchwork as they will tend to warp if left standing on edge.

As far as what is placed on the plywood, I used 2" foam sheet as I plan to do quite a bit of contouring of the land(creeks, gulleys, etc.).

The doors skins are a laminated product, a ply wood. Nice approach.

I use 1 x 3 and rabbet (well, half of one) the top inside edge and drop in 1/2" birch or commercial poplar (when I can get it). Similar result. Lightweight and sturdy module.

The material used for surface application needs to have exterior grade glues/adhesives for our application. IMO.  Some of the lesser grade luan boards/plywoods available at competitive prices/big box stores, tend to de-laminate/come apart when scenery glues/water is applied.  I've used MDO board and exterior grade A/C plywood for my layout.  A/C implies A grade one side/C grade the other side.  Exterior rating implies the adhesives used will with stand moisture to some degree.   Both the MDO and A/C have a very, very nice work surface. IMO.   Mike CT