Benchwork for Portable Layout

I would recommend using folding table legs.  The same type used on those 3 x 8 tables you might see at train meets or flea markets. Here's a ready made table to show you what I am talking about.  I'm sure the legs are available for sale separately.  Check out one of the hardware suppliers like Rockler.

Thank you, but I would prefer something a little more permanent than that. I would also like to be able to change out the layout height for different events. For this even they want it 2' high. Other events, we may want it 4' high. 

Four pieces of 4x8 plywood, cut down to 3.5 x 8. I'd frame them with 2x2's and then connect them as pairs, with hinges so that they close with the 2x2 frame outward. This way when you open them up, they'll stop when the frames from each board come into contact. I'd decide where you want your legs to go, and I'd build up the frames to 4" and then cut 4x4's for the legs you want to length. I'd then join them to the table using something like this, using bolts to secure it in place.  You'll need legs on the corners, and in the center (to keep the hinges from attempting to fold closed, and also to connect the two sections together).

That would be my initial attempt ... which may be more difficult then necessary.

Years ago, I took a rather unusual approach to this problem. I built modules in two styles, 2'x4' rectangles, and 2' triangles. I covered them with green loop style carpet and put Velcro hook on the bottom of my track. There was no fixed track plan. Every setup was a custom layout to fit the space. The drawback to this the setup time, first you have to get the tables up. The you have to put the track down, then you have to wire it. It's a lot of work, but the payoff comes when you see the people's reactions, old and young alike.

This one was in an empty storefront t a local mall. I kept refining the pieces to cut down the setup time.

This layout was one of the most unusual, set up at a different mall out in the common area. I wrapped the layout around a corner.

Here you can see the track setup process.

This was a test setup in my basement for the last show I ever did.

Here's a good shot of the triangles used to form the corners.

The layout going up.

The finished layout.

These aten't my kids, but they had a great time running my timesaver switching layout. I let everyone who wanted to, throw the switches and run the trains with the cab-1. The show promoters said my layout was the hit of the show.

If anyone is interested, I'm willing to sell this whole thing.

Michael, I don't think you want to mess with changing layout height from show to show. two feet is too low, it will end up killing your back to set up, and it's hard to get under. Four feet is too high. I went with three feet, and it worked very well. I could get under it to wire,, and older kids could see fine. Parents usually hold the small ones. I also had a step stool, which the kid in the last photo is standing on.

Big_Boy_4005 posted:

Michael, I don't think you want to mess with changing layout height from show to show. two feet is too low, it will end up killing your back to set up, and it's hard to get under. Four feet is too high. I went with three feet, and it worked very well. I could get under it to wire,, and older kids could see fine. Parents usually hold the small ones. I also had a step stool, which the kid in the last photo is standing on.

I agree that it is too low, but it's actually surrounded by G gauge and shrubbery on the ground, so the idea is that the general public will look down at all of it from the outside. I just used 4' as an example, I'm sure I'd go shorter than that if it was the only layout, but taller than 2'. I plan on elevating it higher for the initial wiring, then having things connect with stay cons when we get to the place. We are also lucky in the fact that I'm 27, and the oldest of the three who will be working on it, so we can crawl if repairs are needed in the field. 

Thank you for your help!

Do not simply "dump" Dan Padova's suggestion.  It is a very practical solution to the "typical" support needed for a portable model railroad.

So, you know in advance that you will be setting up in "other than typical" settings on a regular basis...but you WILL be doing some of the "typical height and configuration"...try a compromise.  Just as some consumer electrical devices have 110-120 V 60 Hz and others have 200-240V 50 Hz, there are also some devices that have the ability to accept either power grid with the flip of an on board switch.

Make your basic frame large enough to fit over the table. I would use a 1x6 horizontal rail that reaches   In fact, I would make the layout section several inches LONGER so you have room to put a cross piece to keep the layout section from shifting...we will call that the "bumper piece"...and then a 1x6 end piece on every section. 

On each end of the layout section, I would place a "leg pocket" of a size to hold the upright lets that YOU decide on (2x4; 4x4; 2x2) between the bumper piece and the end piece and the leg could be held in place with a simple bolt with a wing nut for simple attachment.  You might even use cross pieces between the legs about halfway between the floor and the top of the layout board.

From this point, HOW LONG THE LEGS ARE is up to the layout owner.  You!

If you want it at a "normal height" simply use the tables for support.

The height needs to be custom height for that specific event...buy the number of leg pieces, drill the holes and keep them available for "the next time".  You can make 6 inch legs, 18  inch legs, 27.5 inches (just throwing odd ball sizes so you realize, it is what you make it at that point.)

You know, having reread that a couple of times, I have some refinements that I would include...

The bolts would be "carriage bolts" with a hex head under a rounded top.  Drive it thru the hole you drill to "lock" the leg in place against the outer frame of the layout piece.  Audience will not get "snagged" by the square or hex bolt or the bare threads.  Use wing nuts to fasten the leg in place.

You could use C-clamps or spring loaded clamps or simply more carriage bolt/wing nuts to hold the various sections of the layout. 

I would recommend that you make a "walk around-shelf style layout" versus a flat table top layout that is 8ft by 16 ft or something similar.  There is no way at a public show that you can gracefully rerail a car that came off the tracks at the 90 degree crossing.  And physically moving a layout that size is a true challenge for one or two people to transport and set up...unless, of course, you have a railroad partner or two who will show up at every public display.

My layout is 30 inches wide around the walls with a 48"x120" peninsula in a (interior size) 15x19 storage building and I have plenty of room in the 36 inch wide "U-shaped" aisle.

OK, I will shut up now.

I agree on the folding table plan, but with a variation.  We use plastic folding tables... complete, not just the legs.  We set up the tables, then put the layout modules on top.

Above, (3) 5' x 30" tables hold up a 15' x 5' layout... plastic tables fold in half so they transport as 30" x 30" squares.  All modules are built to be 30" x 60".  I used to transport the whole setup in my SUV until I got the MTV, "Modular Transport Vehicle" pictured in the background

If we're going someplace that has tables (hotels, schools, etc) we ask if they can provide a few tables so we don't take ours.

At a Boy Scout Jamboree in CT, they had plenty of tables. (note the pile behind forum member dmasso.. he keeps popping up in my pics!)  We set up our 30' x 5' layout with reverse loops)

In all setup we use table skirts to cover the legs... cheap, table height out of the package, velcro onto layout sides.

Quick and easy setup... in the top picture, that outdoor setup takes about 1.5 hours (from pull up to running trains), including the two canopies!

eddiem posted:

I agree on the folding table plan, but with a variation.  We use plastic folding tables... complete, not just the legs.  We set up the tables, then put the layout modules on top.

Above, (3) 5' x 30" tables hold up a 15' x 5' layout... plastic tables fold in half so they transport as 30" x 30" squares.  All modules are built to be 30" x 60".  I used to transport the whole setup in my SUV until I got the MTV, "Modular Transport Vehicle" pictured in the background

Quick and easy setup... in the top picture, that outdoor setup takes about 1.5 hours (from pull up to running trains), including the two canopies!

 

 

Eddie,

I like the ideas that you have incorporated in the outdoor setup as included in the photo. Would you have additional photos available that show how the modules are constructed and then assembled when putting the display together. I’m thinking of making a display that can be used at various functions and events in our small town...as a community service. Of course, light weight modules and ease of transport and assembly on site are always important factors! 

Paul,

I'll look for pictures... I have 'em somewhere!

As I said all the modules are 30" x 60" (By coincidence the Lionel Modular stuff they sell is about the same size)  As you can see in the first picture, the 3 tables that hold it up are spanned by the 5' modules, so you don't need table surface under the whole layout.

I use Fastrack in O36 and O48 curves.  The tracks are 6" apart.  I use green felt glued to the base board.  I believe the centerline of the outside track is 4.5" from the front edge of the module.  That math works... other variations get complicated!

Each module is made of a frame that's 3/4" plywood cut into 4" strips.  On top of the frame is a top sheet of 1/4" plywood... this makes for a very lightweight module.

All track is attached to the module and I use 5" sections to join the track between modules.  The 5" pieces are added before the modules are connected with common 1/4-20 bolts to join the frames from underneath.

Here's some diagrams of a corner (corners are 30" x 30" but usually transported together as a 30" x 60" end piece) and straight module as well as a 5' x 15' setup.  You can see how the 5" joiners are on the edge of each module...no Fastrack to cut.. all standard lengths.

3rd track is for a bump and go trolley... straights on each end are for display use, and wired for a helicopter launcher.

Building lights are also attached to the boards and the buildings are transported separately and placed on top of the lights in the right places.... easy!

Setup is usually 3 or 4 guys. Once layout is together, I do the DCS and transformer to track hookups while others add building, scenery, cars, people, and the trains.

CarGuy,

Do you still camp at York?  I remember your tent trip!  I'll be at the April York with my small fold up layout that fits in the back of the "MTV", also known as our campervan!   We really enjoy camping there for the event!

Haven’t been to the York event...almost attended last October, was registered, purchased a ticket and had a hotel reservation...but had second thoughts about the 10 hour drive! Decided to pass and took a 4 day fall color trip staying at the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island instead. One of these days though...I will make it to that meet!!!

Thanks for the diagrams...gives me a better idea of your setup...wasn’t quite sure how the long panels were supported and attached? But looking closer at the photo I can see that they actually share the end table top with the end pieces and also share the center table with the long section from the other end.

Having the lights installed and just placing the buildings over them is a great idea too...and time saver for sure. Light weight construction is also on my list!!! 

If you have it available, what is the configuration for the reversing setup you used at the Boy Scout Jamboree?

Appreciate your time...

Here's the reversing loop setup.  I made 2 extra 24 x 30 bases to use for this setup... they don't have track attached, I just add the curves once the boards are in place.

I already had the two straight modules with left and right switches that I use for sidings on the smaller setups.

Smallest setup is 4 corners = 5' x 5'

Or I can do 10' x 10', 5' x 15', 5' x 25'  with (6) 5' x 30" modules.

Add 2 more 5' straights to make it 25' long.

On these modules, I used threaded bulb sockets and we add lights during setup... now I would is the 3 LED strips.  They're flat, and could stay on the layout without adding bulbs during setup.

ps. got my posters mixed up.. thought I was responding to CarGuy on the last reply!

eddiem posted:

Here's the reversing loop setup.  I made 2 extra 24 x 30 bases to use for this setup... they don't have track attached, I just add the curves once the boards are in place.

I already had the two straight modules with left and right switches that I use for sidings on the smaller setups.

Smallest setup is 4 corners = 5' x 5'

Or I can do 10' x 10', 5' x 15', 5' x 25'  with (6) 5' x 30" modules.

Add 2 more 5' straights to make it 25' long.

On these modules, I used threaded bulb sockets and we add lights during setup... now I would is the 3 LED strips.  They're flat, and could stay on the layout without adding bulbs during setup.

ps. got my posters mixed up.. thought I was responding to CarGuy on the last reply!

Thanks again for providing all of this very helpful and useful information...

They do make folding leg assemblies with an adjustable-height feature (a little sprung "button" that fits into a hole on each telescoping leg.)   Our club in Plano, TX set up a heavy modular layout with these legs for many years.  The gross adjustment range was pretty good, but I don't believe it went as low as 24" (and probably not a good idea anyway for the reasons stated above.)  Disadvantages?  This type of folding leg assembly is heavier and more expensive than the common non-adjustable variety.  Also, they don't provide for fine adjustment, such as you might need when the setup surface isn't level.  We used old-tech wood shims for that purpose, and had some "floating" legs on occasion.  With the advent of can motors and speed control, getting things perfectly level isn't as important as it used to be!