Benchwork Question

I would put locking casters on all the legs, and build the tables with extra cross-bracing to ensure that they stay plumb, square and level when they are jostled about. I would use simple hook-n-eye hardware to fasten them tightly to each other. These can be easily fine-tuned to make a tight connection.  The places where the wooden tables meet can be equipped with a few pieces of 2 x 2 trim to make simple alignment guides.

I would arrange the track such that the places where the track crosses over the gap are designed so that the track has short transition pieces (6" or so) that can be placed and removed when the tables are connected and disconnected.  You can reference the modular layout specs for examples of how to do this. Modular clubs do this sort of thing all the time.  Use wire jumpers from one table to the other for track power. Don't rely on the track itself to provide electrical reliability. See next:

I would arrange the wiring with male/female multi-conductor plug/connector combinations, carefully labeled, with enough slack in the wiring to allow ease in plugging and unplugging.  Automotive trailer plugs and sockets accommodate the correct wire gauges and provide enough circuits. Google "Hopkins 7-BLADE (not 7-pole) trailer connectors" and you will find what you need. They are cheap, easy to manipulate, and reliable. If your layout requires more than 7 wires between the tables. use a second or third pair of connectors.

Use "no tape" "red tape" and "white tape" etc, on the pairs of mating parts to avoid having the coal loader start up when you intended to throw the switch to the factory siding, or to make sure the little man doesn't throw the milk cans out when all you wanted to do was turn on the street lights.

Thanks! Great advice, just what I needed. Now of course, I've a long learning curve ahead of me.

C'mon back whenever you need to. We're all here to help. God knows there aren't many other things to do right now. It's gonna be a long winter...

Connect the tables with C-clamps. Where the track crosses the joint, dont screw that piece of track down, but screw down the tracks on either sides very well. If you need to undo it, just pop the clamps and pull apart. This is basically how modular railroads work.  If you think you'll be opening this up a lot, over time, you'll probably need to re-crimp the shape of the rail around the pin as all of the in/out tends to make the rails get loose.

Another (more advanced) option is to fix the rails in place on either sides of the joint and then split the track with a dremel. This is best done by putting a brass screw into the table underneath each rail then soldering the rail to it. If you have both sides soldered into place and then cut the track loose, it'll all go back together in alignment. I'd recommend doweling the tables so your alignment stays the same each time.

Some people will just screw down the ties real well, but the rails can still move around if you do this.

3" diameter rubber wheel locking casters (Menards of course ) have made it effortless to move my 12x12 L shaped layout around the basement.  Alternative to trailer connectors is to use barrier terminals between sections with jumper wires, not as quick to disconnect and labeling wires is a must.

@Mick60 posted:

3" diameter rubber wheel locking casters (Menards of course ) have made it effortless to move my 12x12 L shaped layout around the basement.  Alternative to trailer connectors is to use barrier terminals between sections with jumper wires, not as quick to disconnect and labeling wires is a must.

You can fix the disconnect/reconnect problem with a couple of multi-pin quick plug connectors.  That is what the modular rr clubs use for the layout modules.