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Finally decided to add a 'round the ceiling loop to my 12' x 12' train room.  Of course this would have been a whole lot easier if the layout wasn't already there, but...

 

Here's the start - I cut a 3 1/2" wide 3/4" plywood loop that will be cut into 4 quarter curves, connected by similar strips of straight track.  Those will be easy after cutting the donut for the corners.  Used a router with a board attached to cut the circles (like a compass).

 

I'm using O-27 track, with 42" curves at the corners... just a basic square with rounded corners (unless I decide on a passing loop on the back wall)

 

The supports will be brackets similar to the ones pictured:

 

 

loop

 

Thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated!

 

Ed

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Alex,

 

dat'sa nice!

 

My train room is a 12' x 12' basement bedroom with 8' ceilings so I'm going to put the track about 11" below the suspended ceiling.

 

Bill,

 

That design is a lot of work!  I may do the wall switch part, but the plexiglass is amazing....I'll put my cheaper trains up there and skip the safety net!  Thanks for the link.

 

I did decide to re-do my corners out of 3/4" select pine from the 'depot.  $56 and a few hours later, I have a new set of corners.  I used the same router setup, but the pine cuts easier and only minimal sanding was needed.

 

I got (4) 42" corner curves out of (2) pieces of wood 12" wide by 6' long.  The width is  3 1/2" so it is a perfect match for the 4" (really 3 1/2") clear pine boards I'll use for the straights.  The pine looks a lot better and will stain better too!

 

Here's some pics:

 

36" by 12" (11 1/2") blank, with router ready to go

routstep1

 

After the second cut. It looks like the width varies, but it's an "optical illusion" - I measured it 3 times!

routstep2

 

With a 42" loop, sitting on top of the original plywood loop..straights will come later

rout3

 

Ed

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  • routstep2
  • rout3
Last edited by eddiem

I really love your suspended track.  I just put up a ceiling track in my spare room this weekend.  I am using 72" curves and was going to use MTH Realtrax.  Due to quirks in the room design some runners (upon which the tracks will sit) are off a few fractions of an inch.  When I lay pieces of RealTrax on the runners to see if they will sit properly on the runner I notice the track bed seems, in some areas, not to sit perfectly in the middle of the runner. My question is this: Since I already bought my Realtrax curves, can I join them with MTH ScaleTrax flex rail where the aberrations occur?  I do not know if the two different types of track can be joined without inhibiting the electrical current.  I realize the Scaletrax has no "ballast" base like the RealTrax and will have to build under the ScaleTrax to keep things even.  Or, do I swallow the cost I made in buying the 72" RT curves and buy ScaleTrax or Atlas 0 3 rail flex track so I can bend the track to follow the variations of the runners?  I am not concerned how realistic the track looks like as it is mounted on the ceiling.  Thanks for any advice?

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