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Need some advice. As you can see from the picture attached, the surface of my layout shows a grid. I used foam board pencils but overlooked that pressure to mark it would also leave wonderful channels in the top. Was great for planning/validating placement of track, etc., but of course, paint doesn't fill in the dents. Also, you'd think at my age I would realize that when primer is suggested, I would use primer...nooooo, I'm too smart for that. Well, even after two coats faint black lines show through.  I used sculptamold to fill in the valleys caused by the tapered foam board (I didn't realize it came this way...) but after that experience the thought of spreading that over the entire surface seemed out of the question. So, I've read about using a very light skim coat of Hydrocal, or or some other plaster to do it. I thought of joint compound but in all these cases I worry about cracking.  Oh, another solution I used causing an issue: foam board joints. I decided to use Tyvek tape thinking that would be best to assure no cracking. I still believe that's the case, but it doesn't paint easily and it stands out when painted. One final point. My benchwork is MIANNE (7x16) which I love but it does have a bit of motion when you lean on it.  

 

So here's the advice I need: (1) what would be best to use, Hydrocal, plaster, joint compound, something else and (2) if I take that approach, am I likely to end up with spider cracks galore over time?  

 

Thanks,

Ed

IMG_1516

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  • IMG_1516: Annoying grid
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Ed,

Will the final layout include a lot of hills, valleys, tunnels, scenery etc.?

I ask because, if so, I wouldn't worry too much, at this point, about the integrity of the flat surface as most of it will be covered over or gouged into to make depressions.

Even a basic layer of ground foam would probably hide most of the grid line depressions.

If you do want to fill joints, I would think best to use something that dries firm but has a touch of flexibility to it to avoid cracking. Hydrocal strikes me as too hard and brittle.

Woodland scenics makes a flex paste that might be a good option.

Mike

 

 

Graz, Mike, thanks. I've attached a 3-D of the layout (the bridges are on the upper level.) and I do plan to add hills, etc., so I think the observation is good. I did look at flex paste but wasn't sure if i could dilute it and how much coverage a bottle would give me. No info on that in the site.  I'll check out True Scene as well. Anyway, I'm going to push on...thanks.

 

7x16 -v3-OGRR Forum 2 Levels_CrossLayout

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Originally Posted by Larry Sr.:

Hi Ed

 

It's probably just the light reflection on the layout. But did you remove that thin plastic coating off the foam board prior to painting????

 

Just checking.

 

Have fun

 

Larry

the paint is 'eggshell' which probably adds to the shine. I tried again this morning to find a plastic coating but I really can't find it so I'm assuming it does not have one.  The paint dried quickly but remained slightly tacky for a day or so.  It doesn't rub off, etc from the foam board but does from the Tyvek tape. I guess no good deed goes unpunished.   Or is it for every action there is some quirky reaction in layout building?

thanks for the recommendation Mike nd chessie. I would suggest that you put down your track and contours (hills etc) and then go from there A contour could be a simple mound of cardboard or a full hill. Not many places are perfectly flat unless you are in Kanas

Fusion fiber is very clean so doing it after track is down will not be an issue.

ok Ed

 

Probably a different type than I used. This is a shot of one side of my rebuild . I used about 12 sheets of the pink stuff and it was on both sides of some of the smaller thickness sheets (1 inch)).

 

I didn't want you to think I was fooling  with you.

 

The 2 inch , I think was only one side. The black printed side.

 

Cheap latex paint dried fast on all of it.

 

 

 

You have a nice start there. Please keep us posted of your build.

 

 

Larry

 

 

 

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Larry,

Hah...I think you should change your ID to Pink Panther.    That's a very impressive build...I will have something on the far corners, big enough to hold a few action accessories and houses. Not sure if they will be mountain like, or what.  My intent is to connect those two "Islands" by bridges or something along the back, to also accommodate a trolley and a loop that will cut diagonally across the entire middle of the layout. I'm not sure whether to buy or build a plate girder bridge. I think those are very cool with the platform and railings. Also they do not obstruct the train in any way and keep the space about as open as possible below.  Problem is, cost for prebuilt bridges, and I'm not sure I can tackle a scratch build of that magnitude.  Well, more than you probably wanted to know, but I do intend to post as progress is made.  Thanks for the help and encouragement.  I hear the theme to Pink Panther playing in the background...my signal to sign off.  

 

ed

Originally Posted by wsdimenna:

thanks for the recommendation Mike nd chessie. I would suggest that you put down your track and contours (hills etc) and then go from there A contour could be a simple mound of cardboard or a full hill. Not many places are perfectly flat unless you are in Kanas

Fusion fiber is very clean so doing it after track is down will not be an issue.

Thanks for the tip on FusionFiber. I will use it. I looked at a video on YouTube and it's certainly a very useful product.

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