Disabled modeler seeking ideas for shelf layout

Well my shelves are (were 7'6" and 9'-0" high--see pic).1992 build but age and health issues caused me to dismantled in '08'. I used wood  braces and stained everything because that was part of the deal to use her 15x32 Kitchen/Breakfast room if I moved off her Den carpet.

  But I suggest 3/4" plywood at any level if spanning more that 16" on center between stud-mounted braces. Better quality 1/2" will work with 16" o.c. braces. Both Lowe's and HD use to carry nice black or white enameled 1/8' thick x 1-1/2" steel braces  that you could get in sizes to easily cantilever a 2' shelf on and still leave comfortable knee room underneath. One 4x8 sheet of plywood or 4 x8 foam sheet will l give you 16 running feet 2' wide (minus rip cuts). Economical until you hit the 054 corner curves. All five of my tracks are Gargraves flextrack, I had some non-standard curves--one end of the room is round and has an 0156 outer curve. Other end has non-standard wide curves also.

You have all the skill-experience to have a neat shelf layout.

 

Bruce,  May I recommend you do a search in the Forum for switching layouts?  You won't need to copy them but the discussions will give you an idea what others have found to be good lengths of spurs and distances between track switches.  Respectfully, John in Lansing, ILL

I made a shelf layout around the ceiling of my loft to run long trains on, I used simple corbels from Home Depot and 13/16 MDF cut in 12 inch planks, Any width can be cut as long as support the shelf with no wider than 16" centers. You can do the same with any sheet, whether plywood or MDF. Total cost for my entire shelf around a 20x22 room was $250 which included 2 4x8 sheets of MDF, corbels, screws ,paint and the brackets I used to suspend the bridge.

For a switching pike in O scale sixteen feet without additional switching leads is pretty tight. I'd be thinking of short rolling stock like MTH Railking Modern Tank Cars, ore cars and 50T coal hoppers. I'd also be thinking about Fastrack O36 track switches because by leaving off the ¼ curve included with each switch you shorten the space needed for each siding as well as reducing the spacing between adjacent tracks.

If you can extend switching lead(s) at one end or both by using curves onto the next wall the whole picture changes. Even temporary shelves which are removed between operating sessions would do it.

Lew

Bruce:

Consider steel L brackets similar to this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ev...cket-14804/202947675

I have (am again) using these to support some portions of my layout. Installed on every stud (16" spacing) and used in conjunction with a good grade of 3/4" plywood, these will support an amazing amount of weight. Far more than you need concern yourself with a layout with light weight in mind. (Styrofoam landforms/etc.)

An added bonus is there will be MINIMAL obstructions for your chair: You will be able to roll right up to the edge of the benchwork anywhere without hitting angle braces with your knees etc.

Hope this helps.

Andre

Bruce;

You indicate that the wall is 16 ft. wide... do you have some depth to work with as well??? If so, you may want to consider adding a switch at each end to create a reversing loop - that way, you could incorporate some continuous running with switching activity.

I hope you will keep us up to date on your build.

Apples55 posted:

Bruce;

You indicate that the wall is 16 ft. wide... do you have some depth to work with as well??? If so, you may want to consider adding a switch at each end to create a reversing loop - that way, you could incorporate some continuous running with switching activity.

I hope you will keep us up to date on your build.

Unfortunately, a few inches over 2 feet of depth is all I have to work with. I will definitely document this build and keep folks up-to-date.

Thanks to all the responders for the variety of helpful suggestions. As this project unfolds I'll document it and publish occasional updates.

Bruce:

24" of depth is PLENTY of depth to create interesting scenes and operation for a switching type layout. Here's a view of an experimental layout I messed with some decades ago. You're looking at exactly 24" of shelf:

If you're willing to cut GarGraves switches, (and use 072 on crossovers) you can tighten up the track center lines even more.

Best of luck!

Andre

I'm biased, but have you considered a trolley line as well?  Superstreets curves would fit well within your 2 foot radius.   ;-) 

Mitch 

I was thinking you could at least get an Inglenook puzzle in the space. Opposing yards so you could race? Would you have any use for a loop if it could be added and you could still reach? I'm just thinking maybe a dogebone in O-27 might be possible too leaving 3ft along each side for chair access. 9ft-ish; don't know your chair clearance. Backing to wall for reaching along it. A slightly larger, fabricated tube metal bracket could hold a 29-30" square for each end. (trade school or highschools used to be good cheap places for simple customs) Also, tube track can be bent to smaller than 0-27. I bent some down to 0-19" & 0-21. Most of my stuff can run on 0-21 but coupler knuckles bind slightly. I think 0-23/0-24" would work or most of the post war size/length cars I can think of.

Bruce,

I always suggest these 6 inch steel brackets, with a backdrop.  Not only will the backdrop hide the brackets, it will add depth and good looks to the layout.  These are 3/4 inch pine boards.

Dave, at Backdrop Junction, just emailed us that he will be closing the business when he runs out of stock.  He's a pilot, and wants to do some other things.  Reasonably priced anyway, you might find some good deals on his site, if you're interested in going that route.

Also, I recommend 1/4 inch dowels to join the boards together.  If you have one of these or can borrow one, they really add strength, and eliminate gluing.

Finally, Adriatic's suggestion of a loop (two is always better) is something you'll want to seriously consider.

Best wishes on your new project.

Jerry

Here is start for a 2 x 16 concept track plan using Atlas track developled using SCARM (Scram file attached); minimum curve 54, turnouts 54:

It uses:

It does not require any cutting of track and has 1 flextrack to be fitted.

Has room for operating accessories.

Not sure how long your 6 year old Tucker will be entertained by a switchling layout.

Here is one that I came up with one evening for a discussion of shelf layouts.  It is a harbor railroad with a ferry terminal and street running.  It incorporates a Timesaver on the end opposite side from the ferry terminal.

Jan

Jan,

Took your idea and edited to fit in my train work area and uses Gargraves/RCS track and switches, 12 by 10 with a car float as a "fiddle yard"

SCARM file attached for those 

Harbor railroads provide for interesting operations.  A few things to think about and remember are:

1. The locomotive is not allowed on the ferry or bridge.  Idler cars must be used between the locomotive and any cars being placed or removed from the ferry.
2. Locomotives will be small -- tank engines or diesel switchers.
3. You'll have provide for your own engine service.
4. You need to have storage tracks for the cars coming off the ferry.
5. You need to have storage tracks for the cars going onto the ferry.
6. A team track is a necessity for small businesses to receive and ship their goods.
7. Almost any type of freight car could be brought in on the ferry.  Consider coal and oil delivery to an elevated ramp.  Stock cars and refrigerator cars.  Produce market with ventilated cars.  Ice cars for ice house.  Construction materials on flat cars to be placed on the team track.
8. Street running is a possibility.  Many encounter street cars.
9. You'll likely need to include a freight house in addition to the team track.
10. Curves will be small diameter.  May have complex track plans with crossings.

Do a search on harbor railroads.  They are in a class by themselves.

Jan

PS. The ferry doesn't need to be parallel to the table.  Since it could be moveable you could bring it in at an angle.