Dog-bone track question

Unless you already have the switches, dual track is cheaper, less things to go wrong, more kid friendly.

More track is almost always cheaper than switches.

Thanks - the area for the straight track is the narrowest on the layout so was hoping for a single track. But cost is also a concern, so will see if I can fit in a dual track.

I went with 2 dog bones and I like the results.

The train travels in a different direction on the same track and kind of

makes it look like the layout is bigger than it really is. It helps eliminate the

boredom of a train going around a circle in one direction.

 

My switches are wired for non derailing and are within a couple feet of each other.

So maybe put the switches at the base of the "U" and then the 2 loops.

 

Just a thought.

I changed my layout about 5 times after the initial design, but that is half

the fun.

Thanks, Stoshu. I don't have full use of the two sides of the  U so am putting it along the back side - a 12 ft wide by 3 ft deep section, most likely using 027 curves to preserve middle space for a village. That is why I like the switch idea - but have never used them. Do they switch automatically each time the train passes?

Well here is what I did.. I guess it's not really a dog bone, More like a 

reverse loop I guess, but you get the idea. The switches are wired for non

derailing. So yes they switch automatically. Use the basic concept and run with it.

try setting this up. It's a simple experiment with switches. From there it can grow...

 

I've always liked that schematic. It doesn't even need controllers as long as you use non-derailing switches. Every alternate cycle the train goes the opposite direction around the loops.

Just what I had in mind. I use Atlas O 3 rail - what non-derailing switches would you suggest? 

I agree, it's a really good simple automatic variable-routing scheme. If more train sets provided the track to set this up it would hold interest better than a basic oval.

DL&W, AtlasO offers a non-derailing circuit board to go along with their turnouts, and will work fine. Bargains on AtlasO switches can be found, but may take some perseverance on your part. I picked up a pair of O-36 turnouts for $60 from eBay. If you make a listing in the "Wanted" section of the forum, a fellow forumite might be able to help you out. For turnouts with built-in non-derailing, Lionel O22 and RMT SuperSnap switches would both work. Both use tubular track and will mate with AtlasO track using the appropriate pin connectors.

If you use FasTrack manual switches, this eliminates the electrical complexity and reduces the MTBF.

MTBF	Mean Time Before Failure

Manual switches for a loop-to-loop scheme would be tedious. Many starter train sets have fancy electronic locos but they won't include more track for layout variations? A loop-to-loop layout with non-derailing switches gives a kid/hobbyist the possibility of easily setting up a single track railroad between "terminals" to create the impression of a train actually travelling somewhere instead of chasing its tail on an oval.

Why? 

 

They provide the same function as the remote FasTrack switches for continuous reverse loop operation and have no electrics/electronics/motors/gears/solenoids/contacts to wear out.

 

Here's a video - the steam set is running on return loops w/ manual switches:

 

I didn't know that the FasTrack manual switches had a "non-derailing feature". I haven't personally used any FasTrack. Thanks for the info!

 

http://www.lionel.com/media/se...ents/71-2017-250.pdf

 

Ace and Rob,

 

I believe a choice of better words will settle this dispute, and clear some of the confusion. When I think of manual switches (which I'm sure Ace is also thinking of, since has been experimenting with O-27 track plans), I think of my marx and lionel switches with points that can only change direction by throwing a switch by hand. Running a train against the alignment of the points will cause a derailement, since the points won't move.

 

The type of turnouts we need to discuss are those with free floating points, which is what is in Rob's video. Free floating point turnouts can be controlled manually, electronically, or by the force of a train moving through the points. A manual turnout can become a free floating point turnout by removing the throw rod mechanism.

 

Two things to think about when using free floating point turnouts: First, if using a turnout with a non-derailing feature will make the train susceptible to derailment if the force is not strong enough to push the points to the correct direction of travel. This happens most to steamers with leading trucks if the trucks don't carry enough weight. Second, free floating point turnouts without a throw rod will require monitoring as the points may move out of position, causing a train to pick the points, and again, derail.

Lionel has addressed both of these issues.  The points move over with a "feather touch", and also are held in place with an over-centering locking spring.  It's a delicate balance, or so it would seem, but it works perfectly.

 

Not sure - there are plenty of wheelchair rides available in a nursing home.