Dz 1000 switch machine reviews

Please show how you have them wired. I’ve been using the DZ1000 since they were first introduced. Very reliable for me. I have 34 on my layout. This forum will get you fixed up.

never had issues with the DZ-1000s. Again, how are you wiring??

some issues with the earlier versions of the DZ-2500s that have been corrected with the DZ-2500Cs.

Ditto Rod.

Have a couple dozen on my Ross/Gargraves layout.  Nary problem #1 with the DZ1000's.

Also, replaced a few DZ1000's with manual throws.  Simplified the wiring (that under-table stuff gets old real quick after 75 years!!!), and I realized that several switches were less than an arm's length from the table edge...good job for a walkabout!...and I have 50+ buttons on the $#%& TV remote!...I get tired of pushing buttons...except when talking with the neighbor about...nope!...moderators don't even want the word mentioned!

Oh yes, back to the DZ1000's...  I really like their low profile on the layout.  Much less obtrusive than some of the other switch power.

KD

I have a number of DZ 1000's and they have not been problemsome.  Can you show us the wiring diagram you are using. If you have had several switches that don't power up, it is most likely how you are wiring them.Once you know how they work , you most likely will not have issues again. Why not post the way you are trying to connect them. I'm sure this group can cure this. Bill Park

We have about 300 DZ1000's on our layout   They are the easiest and most reliable that we have found   Here is the wiring diagram from Ross  Try connecting the motor and button on a test bench to get it working and then duplicate the wiring   This is a little dated as the motors dont have setscrews anymore and the newer ones have pigtail wires but the connections are the same

I have wired a couple of them at it was pretty easy. Are you using the controller that came with the switch?

A couple of questions that may help debug it:

1)Are you seeing the led's light up on the switch motor? If you don't, then check that the middle terminal on the switch is seeing power, maybe the power connection doesn't have 12-14 v. I would take the wire out of the switch or disconnect it (if pig tailed to the wire coming out of the dz1000), and check with a meter. If that has power, then redo the connection into the switch, and see if that helps.

2)Likewise, is the ground side on the controller end really grounded? Same thing, take the ground wire off the switch, verify it is getting ground back to the transformer/power supply ground.

The other question, is this just a vanilla DZ1000 wired the basic way shown? Are you using the dz-1008 relay for example, or do you have the switch wired for non derailing? If you are wired for either of those, I would try the switch with 'generic' wiring as shown in the diagram someone else posted and see if it works.  Did you just try the one switch motor or was this across the board? DZ1000' are pretty reliable from what I can tell (I have a number to wire, I wired a couple just to see how bad my wiring skills are.

apologies if I am waking the wrong thread for this -

There is a sale on DZ-1000s Switch Machines with the Remote @Hobbylinc

$20.39 each

http://www.hobbylinc.com/z-stu...rical-accessory-1000

@Cachow I must ask, what happened with your switch machines?

Beware that the Z1000 machines on sale at www.hobbylinc.com are the now discontinued early versions, and their shipping charges are exceptionally high. I was about to order 15 of these which can be shipped for $15 in a USPS Flat Rate Box and they wanted over $30 in shipping charges. Just a heads up.

Please provide a clear photo of the underside of the layout in question showing the overall approach to the wiring involved.

@romiller49 posted:

Please show how you have them wired. I’ve been using the DZ1000 since they were first introduced. Very reliable for me. I have 34 on my layout. This forum will get you fixed up.

It would be great to see photos of your layout. 😀

These switch motors have a built in ( throw completed- cut out). Unfortunately if for some reason the throw is short/or incomplete, it has to be manually move to complete the throw, and reset for the opposite throw.  Higher accessory voltage seems to work better, IMO.  Mike CT. 

@hokie71 posted:

@Cachow I must ask, what happened with your switch machines?

Nothing happened to my switch machines, I don't currently have any connected to anything. 😉 - I'm planning to start building a table in the next year. I have a LOAD of Gargraves and Lionel from my grandfather. I helped him build a large table back in the late '70s, early '80s. I do have dozens of twin coils that were taken off his old layout. In my memory we had no end of headaches with the twin coils and the loud snap they provided didn't seem terribly 'model railroad', we also played heII with trying to mount them underneath the table (in the end they were all top mounted) and then there was the occasional smoked coil that always got a little exciting. So, I'm looking into what's next as I start to plan/build.

Tell me, what is the disadvantage with the older Z1000s?

Please pardon my rookie mistake. I just now realized that you weren't asking me about my switch machines 🤪

Have you wired the non-derailing feature ?  If so,  is the isolated section cut at both ends ? Two cut per isolated section.

Also, if the controllers are mounted on a conductive surface.  The LED/sockets extend beyond the rear plain of the controller allowing the pointy LED/sockets to short on the conductive surface.

@shorling posted:

Have you wired the non-derailing feature ?  If so,  is the isolated section cut at both ends ?

Check the switches diagram up about 9-10 posts.  It answers your question, I think

Jackson (modeltrainsandparts): How can you tell the older version DZ-1000s from the new?

See bluelinec4’s post above.  The older DZ1000s have set screws that secure the wiring to the switch machine.  In my experience, you need a jeweler’s screwdriver to tighten them and sometimes it is difficult to get a secure connection.  In short, they were a pain to wire.  The new ones have a hard wired pigtail which is a vast improvement.  As stated above, the wiring diagram is the same.