E-33 Rectifier - MTH 30-2519-1 ~ Burn, Baby, Burn...

The white stuff is hot melt glue used to hold the inductors in place. It is not from the relay.

Actually, your caps are failing, see the dome on top of the 330uf one, a common failure item.  I'll bet money the brand of that failing cap is WINCAP.  Anytime you see the top of an electrolytic cap that isn't flat, that's a sign that pressure is building inside.  The score lines are safety pressure relief, if the pressure gets too great, they will separate.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Actually, your caps are failing, see the dome on top of the 330uf one, a common failure item.  I'll bet money the brand of that failing cap is WINCAP.  Anytime you see the top of an electrolytic cap that isn't flat, that's a sign that pressure is building inside.  The score lines are safety pressure relief, if the pressure gets too great, they will separate.

Okay, so my first thought on a failing Cap(s) seems to hold true.

I'll take a closer look at them with a magnifier.

Assuming Cap replacement is in the cards, might this be worth the cost and effort, and would one try to isolate the bad one, or just replace them all...???

Any idea on what the cost to replace Cap(s) might be thru a MTH Service person...???

Should I just screw the Caps, and go for a PS3 Upgrade...???

Is there something else going on, causing a Cap to fail, or is it just age setting in (this engine came from the year 2000 Catalog), so we're talking almost 20 years old.

Any additional feedback is appreciated...

Once it smokes it's done. PS2 5V boards (what your locomotive has) are know to die like that. A MTH tech can get a replacement PS32 board with 5V connectors for your locomotive. The board set runs about $200. 

You can use the PS32 board in that, let me know if you need one, I just got a couple in.

As Lou says, it's unlikely you'll fix it, those boards are dropping like flies.  I have revived a couple, but i have a box of around 25-30 dead ones, and that's not all I've pulled, I tossed about 30 of them a few months ago.

It's "possible" to replace that 330uf cap, but it's difficult.  You need a long thin tip iron and you pry the boards apart a little to reach the inside lead.  If I ever see one with the WINCAP brand that's still working, I replace it on the spot.

Gunny,

Yep, it looks like that 330uf Cap is the culprit.

Upon further inspection, it's flat cap is slightly bulged on top, while the rest of the Caps are flat to the horizon.

I might just attempt to replace the Cap myself. I mean at this point nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Worst case, I gut the innards and turn it into a nice Dummy, or I bite the bullet and go for the PS32 Upgrade.

Thanx...

Yep, the caps are only pennies, I keep them around for other projects anyway.

When it overheats and starts melting wires that has nothing to do with the CAP.  It has a direct short across AC input and or PV to ground.  Make sure you inspect wiring thoroughly before installing new board.  G