Elevating Fastrack up to 8 "

33' for 2%, Half that for 4%

RBB,

I'm a little renegade when it comes to some of the *standards* of the hobby but my rubber-tired locos would easily pull 5-8 cars up that ridiculous  grade from the lower to the higher. I don't have the ability to measure at the moment, but recall that run being about being about 5 feet. 6 at the most. Just keep the heavier cars behind the loco. If you have the space, I would encourage you to make it as long as possible. This branch up from the lower yard was also not a "daily driver" . Good luck! Hope that helps.

(I also used to MU a helper on the rear when I moved heavy stone cars from the real marble quarry....not in the picture. I have a cool video of that somewhere).

Bob

Personally I agree with John, you'll need at least 17-20 feet of run length.  If you don't have that much, either make your upper level an isolated loop, or just stick to one level.  No matter how steep you make your grade, remember that you'll need a GRADUAL increase at the bottom, and also a gradual levelling-off at the top.  Otherwise you'll have unreliable operation, and pretty soon you'll just stop using that track which defeats the purpose of building it.  My $.02.

I agree with Ted that the gentle easing into and out of the grade will make operations much better. I have a point to point layout with 3 elevation changes in each direction, each about 7".  I did have however have a good size area to help keep the grade under 1%. At the beginning and end of the grade, the locomotive wheels all need to pretty much stay in contact with the rails. Without a subtle transition, there will be issues keeping all the engine wheels on the rails impeding smooth operation.  Another $.02 worth.

Thanks to Bob, John, Bill, Bob and Ted for your replies, Very helpful to my decision making process.  Going to the Mad City Model Railroad show today to see what there is to see. Given my tight layout space I think adding another level is my best option, although it should be interesting to have that level go though another room as a faux tunnel.  Looking forward to further participation in the OG Forum.  Another project will be to put lights in my elephant and lion rail cars.  Probably  need to replace at least one truck on each car to add a center rail pickup.  Oh well, for another day.  Thanks, Craig

Also, thanks for the pic, Bob.  Some great ideas there for me just starting out. Wish I had more space but for me O gauge was the way to go, so I'll just do the best I can with the space I have.

@RBB&BC posted:

Also, thanks for the pic, Bob.  Some great ideas there for me just starting out. Wish I had more space but for me O gauge was the way to go, so I'll just do the best I can with the space I have.

Just re-thing since reading other comments: my harshest up-hill grade is about 6 feet, but I forgot to include the approaches. They do have to be gradually, as Ted and Bill said. Otherwise, the couplers become disengaged due to height differences caused by abrupt the grade change.

Having said that, the entirety of my lift is probably closer to 10-12 feet when including the looped ends.

2% grade = 2/100 or .02

2/100 = 8” rise

8” x 100/2 = 400” or 33.33 feet

4% grade will be half that or 16.67 feet

@RBB&BC posted:

Also, thanks for the pic, Bob.  Some great ideas there for me just starting out. Wish I had more space but for me O gauge was the way to go, so I'll just do the best I can with the space I have.

Welcome to the Forum fun!

Thought I'd add my experiences. I have a 4x8 layout and wanted two level operation. I was able to fit two grades up and down on either end to switch trains between both levels. I quickly realized that one grade was just too steep for more than an engine and one car to make it up and I eventually eliminated the grade and changed the track plan. A big issue with grades is curves since they add friction and drag on the train as the wheels go through them. Mine was 027 curves on a steep grade, a really bad combination.

As others have said, allow enough room for smooth transitions at both ends. Steam engine pilots tend to sit very close to the rails and will bottom out and short at the bottom of a grade. If you can keep the grade to about 2% average you should be fine.

I have to ask why the upper level has to be 8" high? The biggest modern cars are about 6" tall from the rail head so you may be able to lower the whole thing which will easy your grade problems too.

Bob

I was wondering the same thing, 8" is unusually high for a 2nd level, I always used 5" as the height.

For a 4% grade up to 5" is a run of about 10 1/2'

My three level layout has steep inclines.  I have 6 1/2 inches between levels.  Each incline is 8 feet long including both straight and curved track.  Even my prewar trains can climb the inclines.  My 1950's engines with Magnatraction can pull four automatic milk cars and a like vintage caboose anywhere on my layout.  Anything with traction tires also perform well too.   One difference though, I run vintage Lionel tubular track.  With inflation rampant, I think this opinion is worth 5 cents.

Bill

Thanks to William, Bill, Bob and others for your helpful comments.  My longest straight section is a bit over 6 ft.  so my approaches would be challenging.  I have some circus rolling stock that stands just over 5 1/2 inches from grade to top of circus wagon ( on a flat car) so I could get by with 6-6 1/2 inches of clearance.   After reading all the comments I have decided to just build an independent 2nd level around the edges of the first level. That will give me the visual interest I am looking for and allows me to run a 3rd train.  Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience.  Craig