fastrack and post-war accessories question

@PChepurko posted:

I have been working with O gauge tubular track and have had many problems. I am again considering switching to fastrac. I have several post-war accessories i.e. 145 gateman, I know Lionel makes a fastrac insulated track. However I am not sure how I would get this to work with my accessories. Any suggestions? Thanks.

The fastest and easiest is to use optical sensors made by MTH, they have timing relays built in look like track boxes and can be placed anywhere. On eBay: MTH Scaletrax Infrared Track Activation Device 45-1028

Rob,  thanks for posting that video,  I made my own insulated track sections just like in the video. It is actually easier to do than tubular track.   The only "hard" part is hooking up a wire to the insulated rail. Lionel sells the power wire,

here it is on Amazon:

I made my own using the Philmore Female Terminal No. 65-402 1C.  However, I don't see it listed anywhere.  The important data is the 22-18A WG wire size, the size of the terminal is .110"  I did see some on Amazon that have that dimension.  If you are able to solder, these are easy to make.

Hope this helps,

Thanks for the help. The video answered all my questions! Now it's time to get some fastrac. There is a train show at the Wayne, NJ Pal on Sunday I will go to. Maybe I can find a deal.

P.S. If anyone has fastrac they want to sell please let me know.

The above video was very helpful and I did buy and install the fastrack insulated track. What I noticed when I bought it is that it consists of three pieces of straight track. One 10" section has wire which attaches to the accessory and the other two 5" have a break in the outside track.

So it occurred to me that since I need a insulated track on a curve, which Lionel does not make, I could take two curved fastrack, remove the outside rail, cut it and then put it back in the fastrack.

Sounds simple enough, right. What do you think? Thanks.

If you have a dremel type good with a cut off disk no need to remove the rail, just cut a slot in the rail and you are good. That is what I did and it works great.

@PChepurko posted:

The above video was very helpful and I did buy and install the fastrack insulated track. What I noticed when I bought it is that it consists of three pieces of straight track. One 10" section has wire which attaches to the accessory and the other two 5" have a break in the outside track.

So it occurred to me that since I need a insulated track on a curve, which Lionel does not make, I could take two curved fastrack, remove the outside rail, cut it and then put it back in the fastrack.

Sounds simple enough, right. What do you think? Thanks.

Just be sure to remove all of the ground straps "inside" the isolated area under the track. Otherwise cutting the rails will have to effect.
By cutting the rails...You can make the isolated area as big or small as you want.

If you use a 10" insulated rail (you cut it, or it is precut on each rail end) to activate an item, say a crossing gate, the gate will go down as long that the outside rails are grounded - the 10" distance.

But in real life, things like gates and warning lights come on well before the train gets there, and then stay down

until after the train's last car leaves past the down gate. Plenty of "safety" margin for our 1/43 car and driver!

For more realistic operation, cut/insulate one side rail on a track well before the gate, and cut one side rail on a track rail well past the gate, and the whole section will be insulated....making the gate come down before the train gets to the crossing and the gate not coming up until after the train passes. It works for the train that passes in either direction.

Good safety protection for your 1/43 car and driver -no collisions on your layout! Your whole insulated section can be as long or short as you want to make it. Just a thought.

Thank you all.

@cngw posted:

...cut/insulate one side rail on a track well before the gate, and cut one side rail on a track rail well past the gate, and the whole section will be insulated....

@cngw,

Your very close, but unfortunately not with Fastrack.  As @Jayhawk500 mentioned, immediately above, it has one or more bridging straps on the underside of each piece of track.  These connect the outside rails together and must be removed or the whole section will not be completely insulated.

Mike

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

@cngw,

Your very close, but unfortunately not with Fastrack.  As @Jayhawk500 mentioned, immediately above, it has one or more bridging straps on the underside of each piece of track.  These connect the outside rails together and must be removed or the whole section will not be completely insulated.

Mike

Mike, I had no idea. Old tube and Realtrax is what I am use to. I guess the FT idea is good for not losing a ground while trains run. Thanks. Greg

Thanks