Fastrack noise reduction

A lot of modelers use Homasote.

You're living the impossible dream of killing off Fastrack noise with simple solutions.  While I'm sure that a layer of Homasote will help, not nearly as much as you think with the plastic echo chamber on each piece of track.  Lee Willis was fighting Fastrack noise some years back and filled each piece with spray foam.  That was the only decently effective method he was able to come up with.

I've used pink styrofoam, Homasote,Woodland Scenics Track-Bed and carpet padding  . The carpet padding is the cheapest. Some modelers paint the carpet padding. Search "carpet padding " on the forum for ideas. You will not eliminate the noise completely. I use cheap indoor outdoor carpet over carpet padding now and the noise level is acceptable to me.

I'm about to try this rubber cell material from HD.  will let you know how it goes when I get a chance to put it down.

I bought a segment of two thicknesses, I am trying 1/16 and 1/8".  I was planning to lay it down as a complete layer on the table, rather than just under the tracks.  My thinking is covering the whole board will muffle more noise.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ru...2-128-0125/304363423

That being said, I am about 98% certain I'm also going to convert to Gargraves and RCS switches now and sell my Fastrack and O-36 switches etc...  due to noise, better looking track, and untenable issues with the O-60 switches (O-60's not for sale they seriously suck) constantly derailing, been fighting this for a couple of years, no matter who I buy them from (LHS, Trainworld), its like everything that was made, was made to derail, tongues not bent right etc. not being thrown far enough to meet the rail.

But I digress, will let you know in a couple days when I get the sheets under the track.

@Daniel Bobrovsky posted:

That being said, I am about 98% certain I'm also going to convert to Gargraves and RCS switches now and sell my Fastrack and O-36 switches etc...  due to noise, better looking track, and untenable issues with the O-60 switches

Well, Ross/Gargraves will also make the noise abatement issue tons easier, that's another bonus of converting.

Fastrack is without a doubt, the noisiest of track systems, but many people use it for the simplicity of setting up. Any type of foam & or carpeting as a base will help reduce the noise. Noise level also has a lot to do with how fast you like to run your trains. The faster, the noisier, no matter what track you use.

Even with Ross, Gargraves, or Atlas track you should use at least one form of sound deadening material. If you are looking for quiet running, NEVER, just lay the track on the plywood base. I prefer homasote or carpet padding on the plywood & then any of the foam roadbeds available.

That home depot foam looks promising, I think I’ll check it out.

I used sill foam and cut out pieces to go into the cavity.  Once laid then ballasted the track and it quieted the track greatly.  However I recently added an elevated level and used gargraves track on rubber roadbed and it so much more quite.  I also have not ballasted that section yet.  I am contemplating replacing a lot of my fast track but I hate to do it because I love my FastTrack switches (16).   I have used my first gargraves switch with TMCC and it has worked great.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ow...Gasket-1FS/202084452

@ironman1 posted:

Fastrack is without a doubt, the noisiest of track systems, but many people use it for the simplicity of setting up. Any type of foam & or carpeting as a base will help reduce the noise. Noise level also has a lot to do with how fast you like to run your trains. The faster, the noisier, no matter what track you use.

Thank you all for the help.

I solved the noise problem by selling all mine at swap meets! Went back to traditional on carpet. Wow what a difference!

AC

I'm using 2x4 wood frame layout construction, rubber wheel casters on legs to floor, 1/2" plywood glued with silicone caulk and screwed to frame, 2" rigid foam glued to plywood with silicone caulk( both sides painted so no warping) 1/2" thick black soft foam (like air conditioner filter black foam) bottom glued to rigid foam with Elmer's White Glue, 1" plastic wall anchors glued into rigid foam board with Gorilla Glue, and finally Fastrack placed on top of the 1/2" thick soft black foam screwed down with 1-5/8" drywall screws into the plastic wall anchors through the track screw holes. Unconventional but has seemed to work quite well to reduce the unwanted noisy Fastrack drum roll noise. Still building the layout but the one loop I do have completed and running is much less noise than I had expected.

I did put down a sheet of Homasote yesterday and it did help.

Does it matter which side of the Homasote is up?

I will probably add some additional padding and have a grass matt on top. Next I need to pick my layout and purchase track.

Thank you all for the help.

While I haven’t tried it yet, I was thinking foam adhesive tape, cut to fit, might help. It comes in various widths and heights.

PC, I started with a relatively large Fastrack layout (14x20, five separate loops).  I used Homosote and foam based on recommendations on the forum - Homosote on the main level and sill foam (blue stuff, 4.5” wide) on the elevated loops.  And it was still unbelievably loud. Rail sounds were irrelevant because they were completely drowned out by the noise from the track - even a low speeds. Admittedly, my basement floor is wood (although, I do have a rug under the bench work).  I tried ballasting large sections of the track with no meaningful change.  I did not fill the roadbed with foam as others tried - it would have taken months and tons of cash to do so. In the final analysis, I ripped it all out and sold it off. I replaced it with Atlas and the difference in noise level is night and day.

I suspect carpet and/or carpet padding could work if that fits within your scenery plans.

That’s my experience.  Others on this forum have built fantastic layouts with Fastrack. YMMV.

Best of luck with your new endeavor. Layout design and construction are my favorite parts of the whole process.

If noise is a concern don't use Fastrack.

@MichRR714 posted:

If noise is a concern don't use Fastrack.

+1.

I'm (almost) surprised that this is still a conversation, in that the noise level of FasTrack is well known. It's kinda expensive, and factoring in the additional cost of whatever you use to deaden the sound, it becomes really "pricey".

As far as "convenience", I find it's just as quick and easy to throw down an oval of Gargraves; looks good, no plastic roadbed noise and is available in many radii (is that a real word?) and no shortages due to overseas manufacturing.

Mark in Oregon

I've mentioned this before, but I  use a foam product that works fairly well. It's basically a thin roll of foam that is very cheap ($10.00 for a 50 foot roll), and I've found it quite effective in quieting my trains to a degree. I got the roll at Home Depot, but any home improvement store will sell it. Also, some people add ballast to Fastrack. See Sean's layout (Sean's Train Depot on You-Tube) or Chris's layout (RBP's Trains on You-Tube). The ballast seems to help, too.

@Dylan the Train Man posted:

I've mentioned this before, but I  use a foam product that works fairly well. It's basically a thin roll of foam that is very cheap ($10.00 for a 50 foot roll), and I've found it quite effective in quieting my trains to a degree. I got the roll at Home Depot, but any home improvement store will sell it. Also, some people add ballast to Fastrack. See Sean's layout (Sean's Train Depot on You-Tube) or Chris's layout (RBP's Trains on You-Tube). The ballast seems to help, too.

Post a picture or a product name, thanks.

@Mark V. Spadaro posted:

Post a picture or a product name, thanks.

It sounds like sill foam. It comes in 50’ rolls.

You all have given this newbie alot to think about and I thank you. It seems that fastrac is a major pain with noise and there is no reasonable solution. Alternative track type are expensive. I do have plenty of O guage tubular track, 36 and 42 inch curves, straight track, connectors and 4 36 inch remote switches. I think I will give the tubular track another shot making sure the track is clean (no rust) and fits well together. I will start with a simple oval and add the switches. I have a design in mind with a train yard and city setting. I also have several Plasticville structures along with several accessories.

Once I get my grass matt I will do a rough layout and see if it makes sense. Thanks again.

That's what it is, Rider. The roll I have is pink, but yeah, same stuff. It works pretty well, plus it's cheap.