First Layout (6 x 13') (Updates w/Pics)

Your table is certainly a generous size and gives you lots of possibilities. Your access isn't so good with two sides of a big wide table against walls. A double-oval is a good start for what you want. I have a few general suggestions:

 

Your layout will look a lot better if you do basic ground cover on the entire table before laying track - even if it's just brown or green paint.

 

Relocate switches to where they can be more easily reached without having to climb on the table.

 

If you have an S-curve, try to put at least a carlength of straight track in the middle (crossovers excepted).

 

Consider adding another reverse loop so you can turn trains either way without backing up.

 

Don't be in a hurry to nail your track down. You may want to rearrange your track plan after a while.

 

Switches are expensive. I find long sidings more useful than short spurs.

 

You have a big table so keep tracks at least five inches from table edges, so derailed trains can't fall to the floor.

 

You may want to cut access hatches in your big table, after you decide on a more permanent track plan.

 

Now go ahead and put some track down to run trains, and be open to future changes! 

Thanks for the tips Ace!  Those are all good suggestions.  I will tweak the design in SCARM to see if I can implement them.  

 

One quick question:  What is the difference between a Siding and Spur?  Is it just the length of the "branch"?  I wanted to get a long siding right up in front as my staging area for changing trains or rolling stock.  Then I wanted another to keep a train in waiting, that is the what spur in the middle is for...

 

Here are some pics of my benchwork construction.  Sorry for the skew...I am a notoriously bad photographer.  

 

I was surprised at the date stamp on the photos...it was '08.  I didn't realize it had been mothballed so long

 

I like the layout however, you might need two access hatches .  You wont be able to reach all the way to the back.  I have a 6x12, but I can walk around all sides  it is still a pain in the neck to work on the scenery in the center.

What is the difference between a Siding and Spur?

A siding has a switch at each end, so a train can go in and out without backing up. Depending on your trains and track, you may or may not have reliable operation backing a longer train in or out of a long (one-ended) spur, especially with a bunch of curves.

Longer reverse loop tracks can serve as both train parking areas and alternate routes for variety.

 

That's a good sized table! You might want to lay a smaller test loop for starters and see what the train noise is like. FasTrack on bare plywood might be kinda noisy. For a kid layout you might put carpet on the table which would be easier to climb around on for access, it would reduce noise and the track wouldn't slide around.

I would move the Crossover to the front. You are going to have derailments on it sooner or later. I would also double it up so you can go in or out in both directions.

 

Another reversing loop would be good but the only place I see is making the entry into the rev loop a wye. This involves backing the train through one side of the wye in one direction but can reverse in either direction.

 

I foresee a need for about 3 access hatches, but those can wait until the track plan is finalized.

 

And For Fastrack on a tabletop, a noise abatement layer is a must.

In order of preference for me; A layer of Celotex Soundstop, Acoustic Ceiling tile, carpet pad or homosote will save your hearing. Don't go with Sheet Foam, not much help there.

First, I'm jealous of the space. I'm limited to 5'x10'. Like you, I'm building a toy train set rather than a model railroad. My plan is a slightly modified for FasTrack plan that Ace had earlier posted. It's a great plan because the trains can run with the switches unattended and includes plenty of reverse action so you're not just watching the train go clockwise over and over again. I tried to limit the number of expensive remote switches and through the use of crossovers was able to put together a layout that only requires two remote switches. The rest are manual since they're at the front edge of the table or on a return loop. I also only plan to run fairly short trains, not more than 5 cars, so I can get away with a 4.3 percent grade (in red). The big plateau in the upper left that the return loop sits on is just sheets of pink foam insulation stacked up and carved. The back of the tunnel will be removable so I can access that big long O72 tunnel. The front track is only 1" from the edge of the table but I plan to add some trim to give it a more finished look and serve as a catch wall. So far we've yet to have a train derail despite my 6 year old letting the train zoom around full throttle.

 

Right now I have no sound abatement. It's just track sitting on some green felt. Noise hasn't been too bad though it helps that the table is very stout, being framed in 2x8 with 1/2" plywood on top supported by 1x4s. Also the area under the table is used as storage and I think that keeps it from becoming a big drum. 

 

I would follow all of the tips Ace lists. Also with SCARM don't worry if things don't match up perfectly in the program. They didn't for me but on the table everything snapped together just fine. 

 

I've got a 5x12.  I just threw down regular dark green indoor / outdoor carpet (from Home Depot).  I think it looks nice (if going for the toy look), is easy to work with, & does a pretty fair job at dampening the noise (I don't nail down my track). 

 

 

That looks nice Don.  Whats the incline on your slope there?  I thought I was too small to really have a rise...

 

 

I like your layout.  There is nothing wrong with having only
1 reverse loop on a small layout.  With help like yours, you can't go wrong.  You may want to invest in a layer of 1/2" homasote and green paper for sound control and a workable platform.

Also you don't need access hatches if you are willing to kneel on your layout.  Your helpers seem to do ok.  I must say I've never seen anyone with a square in their hands on any jobsite I've ever been on as cute as that.  Put 'em to work!  Have fun

Just some ideas, trying to avoid using a lot of expensive switches and still have some variety to run multiple trains. The wye and reverse loop arrangement is something I use on my own layout - I actually have two concentric tracks in my loop. You can park trains there and head out in either direction.

 

 

This one has reverse loops long enough to park trains on, and the switches are all up front for better access.

 

How do you create the blocks so two trains can run independently under Ace's layout?  The switches are connecting both tracks so it's not obvious to me as a new person.

You can buy a Fastrack Block Section or the cheaper way is remove the center rail jumper on the smaller piece like in my video.  You would need two, to isolate the inner loop.

 

The 2 outside loops can be made inde pendent of each other by leaving or ceating a gap in the center rail.  I like the original plan with the crossover moved to the front.  What are you waiting for?

What a great thread. 

 

Ok I took some of the suggestions and modified the plan a little bit, moving the crossover to the front.  I know how to isolate the loops (and the spurs), but did not include the blocking track in my plan.  I have some short blocking I can use there. 

 

The table-top is covered in sound-board (I believe this is similar to homosote) which is painted green.  I plan to add some "cut-out" rolling hills in the background using solid colors (purple and dark green).  I want to put a large cut-out hill in the north-east corner (which is under some stairs) and run a pair tunnels through it.

 

 

I like Ace's track plan the best.You will regret not having a DOUBLE crossover when it'a all said and done.Just being honest.

Ace, I couldn't see the 2cd image in your post.  Is it different than the 1st layout?

 

Thanks.

 

-m

 

 

Ace,

I sent you an e-mail about your terrific track plan.

Bill

 

Morglum,

Good luck with the layout. It looks like you have a couple of good helpers!

Bill

I thinks it's about 5%.  Guessing about 100" or so of rise to get to the tallest trestle (which I think is 5.5").  My MTH PS2 (with speed control) engines handle it well, but even my conventional engines do well on it (get up, & not too fast going down... assuming their load isn't too big).  It's kinda nice in that it provides a "double reverse" too.  Attached are the two parts to the inner block.  My outer block (not shown) is just a simple loop (not connected)... but with an extra foot like you have, should be able to connect with a few switches. 

 

 

Ok here is the latest I worked up in SCARM.  This incorporates a version of Aces's reversal loop. 

 

I don't know if I am pushing the edges.  My table measures exactly 72", and I am at 68" at the widest spot...

 

-m

 

Morgan, what a great layout. Adding Ace's Y-to-reverse loop is a great idea. The only thing I'd add would be a matching switch over between loops so that you won't have to back your trains through to change outer to inner loop. And maybe another small siding inside the inner loop just before the "Y".

 

Excellent!

 

Bruce

Just not a fan of that one.  Too busy for too little gained. I like plan 1A the best.  Backing a train to reverse it isn't a sin.  Your long sidings are more important than that extra loop inside.  And your smallest curve radius just got a lot smaller.

Here is my latest plan.  I added another spur, and tried to clean up the spacing.  I am feeling like it's getting a little busy.

IMHO, if you want to run multiple trains and reverse them in a small space, busy is impossible to avoid, but can be made to look less so with the proper landscaping so trains are not seen all the time. I think this plan gives you a lot of operating capability. To make it look less busy, I would try to hide some of the 3 tracks from the back of the reversing loop to the back of the layout with a mountain or raised urban city.

Remember too that you added the spurs for rolling stock storage. With that in mind, neither one serves any other purpose, so they help convey that "busy" look. I would probably turn the bottom one into a siding rather than a spur. I would straighten the top one and front it with a row of buildings to basically hide it. I'd also consider making it a siding too. I just don't see you backing trains into/out of either of those spurs.

Also, you really do need to add another crossover next to the current one. Once your train comes through the current crossover, the only way to get back to the inner loop is to back through the crossover and that is just asking for trouble.

This could be a way to provide access to and from the outer main without backing up, with the addition of just one crossing piece. It's not perfect from a railroad operational standpoint but it saves the price of two switches.

 

Thats a slick looking idea Ace.  I'll see if I can work it into my plan.

Here is an update on my Layout.  We painted some mountains and added them over the backdrop.  The color scheme matches the new GG1 girls set I got from Pat's Trains.   I have some christmas tree lights taped to the back of them for a twilight effect.  The photo's don't do it justice...I'll have to try with a real camera. 

 

I am experimenting with a new elevated reversing loop.   It doesn't do everything my initial plan does, but it has the advantage that it uses the track I have on hand.  (If I could just stop buying engines, I could afford some more track/switches!)  I will post a SCARM diagram later.

 

 

I love the whimsical mountains and the lights. I'll bet I can coax my granddaughter into helping me do something similar when I get to that point.

 

I've been getting multiple email requests for track parts lists for some of my track plans. While I appreciate the interest, I would like to encourage people to customize their own track plans according to the track that they want to use and the space that they have available for a layout.

 

I use AnyRail free version of track planning software, which I find fun and easy to use. However it limits me to 50 pieces of track, which limits me to mostly smaller layouts, which is actually my main interest. When I draw smaller track plans with all the individual pieces, I try to include enough notes to indicate what the pieces are. When I post the pics here, you should be able to click on it for a larger and more legible image.

 

I've drawn some of the larger track plans as rough drafts, without showing all the individual pieces, and I like to encourage people to learn to use a track planning software so you can tweak these plans to best suit yourself!

 

If you are a newcomer in the hobby, it may be best to just start with some basic ovals or figure eights before embarking on a major layout design. The great thing about sectional track is that it is relatively easy to change around.

 

When I have time, I will try to post some more ideas for smaller track plans.

Slowly making progress.  I am finishing laying track, and beginning the wiring.  

 

Since my plans call for an elevated curve right at the edge of the table, I put together a trestle type railing based on the "Drywall shim" method I read about in another thread.  I used 1/8" hardboard (since I had some) instead of the shims.  It ain't pretty, but after some painting it shouldn't look too terrible and it should hopefully help prebvent disaster with any de-railing event right at that spot. 

 

Here are some pics and the latest plans.

I've been running trains for the past few weeks which is nice.  I decided to add an inner-loop composed of 0-31 Realtrax and a short bump-and go trolley line.  After that I got down to adding a few buildings.  Here are some pics with all these updates.  

 

I might move the trolley line a little more to the forefront, and a add a few more buildings.  

 

My outer loop has a "slow spot" right around the north-east corner.  I think the power signal is die-ing there so I might drop another wire to that block there.  I also need to add some labels to my control panel.  

 

Other than that, I am starting to feel close to complete and am thinking about a Phase 2 addition.

 

-m

Morg,

   You are one good father, your little girls will remember what you built for them, for

the rest of their lives.

PCRR/Dave

Here is the rough draft plan with the curves labelled. I am using the free version of AnyRail which limits me to 50 pieces of track, so I can't draw it all out with individual pieces. Note that the grid lines are spaced at 12" apart. If you have AnyRail, it should be easy to reconstruct the plan for your own space. Thanks for your interest.

  

I am a Mac user so this is my rendition in Railsoft of Ace's layout. I did have to use a 072 Wye section to make it work. I was also able to condense it down to  6'x12.' Does anyone have any suggestions to make it better? Am I overlooking anything? Since I operate conventionally where do you think I should put electrical blocks? Thanks.

Ace and everybody that posted on this thread I'd really appreciate you constructive criticism of my modifications to Ace's plan. BTW it was done on a Mac in Railmodeller.