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The photo shows my original plan for adding an upper level, 12" above my table.  After doing the mock-up in the photo, I realized the support uprights would be an access problem for the lower tracks, even if I changed the shape and reduced the size of the supports.  

My goal is a double loop of O72 Atlas track, and I already have most of the track.  The mock-up in the photo is 16" wide 1/2" thick MDF.  Iʻm now considering wall mounted brackets, and reducing the width of track base to the minimum needed for two loops.

I am planning to change from 1/2" MDF to 3/4" plywood to maintain stiffness.  Wall studs are 24" behind the drywall.   For aesthetics and scenery Iʻd like to avoid under shelf brackets, using either "floating" or above shelf brackets.    I searched and reviewed quite a few existing topics on shelf layouts and have learned from them.  I have not seen where anyone has used "floating" brackets.  I have seen a few where top mounted brackets were used.   The problem with both floating and above shelf brackets would be ability to support weight, sagging over time, and difficulty leveling/adjusting.  Anyone have thoughts or suggestions?

2nd Level

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I have done what you want to do. Here are some of my suggestions

Check out lower level track before putting up support posts. Check for clearance to the back wall curves with steamers. Then check out clearances of the posts on the lower. Easier to fix now than later.

You will not have access problems with a 12 inch clearance. After you complete the second level, the only access issue should be track cleaning and derailments of the lower level. I have 6 to 7 inch clearance and have no problem with cleaning. derailment access is marginal at 7 inches.

I used dimensional lumber for my posts: 1.5 inches by .75 inches with a base similar to yours. I put them on either side of the two track upper level. Single track upper level, I used one post dead center. Post are spaced about 16 inches apart. Half inch plywood use for platform. Posts are secured the posts from the top side with screws thru the support base. Upper level is secured to the posts for stability. A right angle drill adopter from harbor freight is helpful. All the posts have been moved over the years so you should make them easy to move.

I painted my plywood and supports light gray to simulate concrete. The lower you place the upper level to the lower level, the less the background will be noticed. less scenery to do. wiring to the upper level is attached to the under side of the upper level and routed to the wall. in free standing areas, route the wires on the back side of the posts. paint the wires if desire to hide them better.

Paint the bottom of the plywood before assembly. Nothing ruins scenery like raw plywood. Raw wood on post also.

IM001462IM001463IM001464

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I've used these blind shelf supports.  They are designed to be set into  drilled holes in the shelf material, but 3/4 stock will be too thin especially if using on wide shelves.  You could rest the shelf on top of the bracket and use small pipe clips to secure the shelf.

MDF will tend to sag between supports over time.  I'd use the 3/4 ply

https://www.rockler.com/i-semb...-blind-shelf-support

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