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I noticed that here are numerous postings of using foam board over plywood for layout designs, but am wondering if any forum members have used only foam board for a portable layout such as a Christmas one.  I design such a layout circa 2000 and used it every year until this past Christmas when I decided to redo with different track.  The original layout was 7'X5'.  Now I'm working on a replacement that is 7.5'X5.5'.  Bigger is always better, right?

The old layout and the new have 3 equally cut sections to make transporting/storage feasible.  I made the layout with two layers of 2" foam board glued together.  In the back third I cut out a hole to accommodate a Christmas tree stand.

Now my question: are there any other forum members that have tried this or are doing it?  Would like to know about any thorny issues or special tricks required to make it work.  I've certainly had some interesting issues to overcome, such as imbedding wiring so that is hidden within the bottom of the foam board and attached with removable connectors for disassembly.

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I built my 2nd Christmas layout using a similar technique just this past season.  I built a 5' x 8' display.  The first one had the tree coming up through the table.  This one has a smaller tree sitting on top of the foam (i use a cardboard base to keep the tree legs from sinking into the foam).  I use white styrofoam board, not pink or green.  It's cheaper and it's texture allows the rock face to be easily made.

I constructed mine to be 4" thick but not solid.  The foam is 2" thick.  I use 6" wide pieces around the edges to build up to the 4" thickness.  I also add pieces for extra support and the middle where the tree sits is solid.  This allows for easier wiring.  For track wiring, I punch holes in the table to keep the wires as short as possible.  For the building lights, they all run out the back in the spaces where the thickness is only 2" and there is a gap between the foam board and table.

Mine is also cut into 3 sections, 1 - 2' wide piece and 2 - 3' wide pieces.  That configuration just worked out better in my situation.

 Edit:  I should have added that this original design was from a CTT issue back in the late '90s.  I believe it was not on a table in the original article.  I specifically liked the rock face so I used the idea for my table layout.  The only thing I would say is for something not on a table, you would need to figure out a way to hold it together if you cut it up.  On the table, it fits inside the table edges so it can not move.  I also use 6 penny finish nails through the track ties to keep the track from moving.

Tony

 

IMAG0289

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Last edited by Tony_V

Bill,

The only issue that comes to mind is that over time it may become dented from bumping it and such. Well, maybe two. Possibly, the track screws coming loose with nothing to get a good bite. Some have made a hole through the foam, put a cable tie, the small ones, through the track screw hole with the head in the screw depression. Then, attach a second on the bottom and gently snug it. It might be tight, because the smalls are usually around 4" long.

have you tried taking some small copper tubing or a pencil and pressing it into the foam to create a wire channel? or just gouge it with a screw driver, press the wires in and tape over it. Same for the connector-just gouge a hole.

 

Tom & Tony,

Thanks for the photos.  Nice layouts.  I, too, got the idea from that late '90s CCT magazine.  In that article, the size, I think, was presented as a 4X6.  But I went to 5X7 because I wanted a "G" scale layout.  Kept that for a few years, but got bored with it due to lack of expansion capabilities, as it could not handle more than one engine/train and there was room for only two buildings - a train station & gas station.  So, I was able to change over to "O" scale.  The first track I used was modern era "O" gauge and post-war 022 switches, but the track metal is thinner than the original and did not keep the rail spacing correct.  Then, I tried Gargraves track, but had trouble with derailing due to a not very good mating between switches and track.  Next, I changed to 031 Ross Custom Switches which worked quite well and freed up some real estate.  Only problem then was my tinplate Blue Comet engine would not make it thru the switches.  Also, Gargraves track did not want to stay in place and I was constantly moving it back in place as well as pushing the sections together.  I did not/do not affix track to the board.  That was one of the issues I had.  All track, accessories, and buildings are removed for storage.  Thus, the new layout in progress (see pic below) will have Lionel Fastrack.  The imbedded roadbed stays together and remains flat on the board.   Of course, I had to bite the bullet and purchase two pairs of Fastrack switches with command control and the Lionel Legacy control system to operate them.  The switches are controlled by the remote.  Saves a bunch of wiring to the transformer.

My layout is placed directly on the floor.  To keep the three sections together, I used a strip of thin plywood with a one inch dia. dowel about 3" long screwed to each end and bridge 4 of them across the sections.  Works o.k., but getting a tight hole fit is a challenge.  I managed to get some pvc pipe with an inside diameter of about 1" and sank that into the foam board.

Also enclosed are pics of the earlier "G" and the "O" scale layouts.A WORK IN PROCESS 1A WORK IN PROCESS 2G LayoutO Gauge

 

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  • A WORK IN PROCESS 1
  • A WORK IN PROCESS 2
  • G Layout
  • O Gauge

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