Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

A “close enough” rule of thumb is 1/4” rise per 2 linear feet of track = 1%. So a 2% grade will rise 1/2” in 24” of track. 

You want an 11” rise, so it will take 44 feet of track on a 2% grade to do that.

A 2% grade on a real railroad is very steep. However, on the model we can go a bit steeper without encountering too many operating problems. 3% or even 4% is doable on the model. Any steeper than that will cause problems.

Last edited by Rich Melvin

It depends on the layout and trains involved too. Grade requirements just aren't that cut and dry across the board.

2-2.5% for more protypical models sure isn't wrong over distance.  But one set of #110 postwar Lionel tressels are about a 5% grade.  These were ment for short fast climbs with only a few light cars, like you'd see on small layouts. (and trolleys laugh at 5% fyi, hardly slow down)

I.e. 5% for a short climb is ok; Once the loco is up and level again, the number cars still on the grade is the limiting factor/added weight over them all being 100% level.

It takes two #110 sets, one set with bases shimmed about 1/8",  to get to near 2.5%.   

Your grade also has to transition slow at top & bottom or you'll nose dive cowcatchers, uncoupler tacks, and scrape drawbars on the center rail, or overshoot rails with lead flanges up high (jump off the hill).  Steam is more sensitive to transitioning imo. 

I.e.  11 pc track, 1% 1% 2% 2% 3% 4% 3% 2% 2% 1% 1%  11 track÷22%= 2% average.

1 % 1% 2% 3% 4% 3% 2% 2% 2% 1% 1%  ; same average but may have some advantage with more of the 2% grade later up the grade, depending on where heavys are in the train and given loco's traction on a given grade. (flat and grade traction vary)

Overall it's an interesting challenge when steep, even though not as easy to just throw something together to run that way.

I'm running a 5% to 7.5" over about 15' and overcame most traction issues by applying one strip of two sided tape for winter window plastic along an outer rail and detacking the topside with fingers/cloth. A strip lasts a few years, peeled and replaced in 5 min..  It can't be seen easily either, being a transparent tape and all.  (worked way better & longer than expected)  This lets me pull a dozen loaded hoppers with a single pullmore motored, mid sized loco (modern E-33 rectifier, GP, etc). (test your worst under load real quick)

Also note, the % suggestions are from "level".  Any deviation from level by your bench work also throws a curveball at the math. Don't forget to add that to your measurements if you're shooting for max grades (always best to use a level vs measuring "points" anyhow.  I use a digital level.. some of the best money I spent; avoiding conversion math with a single button really speeds things along )

Add Reply

Post
The Track Planning and Layout Design Forum is sponsored by

AN OGR FORUM CHARTER SPONSOR
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×