I cut a bunch of ''O'' gauge ties from Walnut I had laying in my woodworking shop where can I get rail so I can hand lay my track. I did a lot of hand laying when I was modeling in H.O. Gauge.
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3 rail rail is available from Ross Custom Switches.
2 Rail rail is available from Micro Engineering in a number of different code sizes.
@Ron H posted:this is my code 48 2 rail track with weathered ties and an N scale 3rd rail and has been completely reliable.
Did you build all your switches or do you transition the third rail to match the average third rail of Ross/Atlas/Whoever switches? That looks stunning!
You are going to hand spike into WALNUT? I've never heard of anyone using such a hard wood.
Jan
I agree totally, walnut? I have done some handlaying (helped a friend on his layout), you want something relatively soft, so you can spike it. Walnut is a hardwood, harder than oak IMO, going to make it really rough to do.
@Jan posted:You are going to hand spike into WALNUT? I've never heard of anyone using such a hard wood.
Jan
About 10% of my home made ties were red oak. Had to pre-drill every one to spike them.
Some of the old southern yellow pine was not that much better; the mahogany ones were surprising good. Plain old white pine, spruce, and fir were pretty easy.
Nice thing is that once stained they all retained character and did not look like the uniform commercial polished ties
Boy I opened a can of worms thanks for all the advice in answer to BILLYo414 question I used BK Enterprises HO Turnout kits. All I had to do was spike them down on a template then pull the template out. I found it's better to pre drill for your spikes, that way if you want to change something later there eaiser to pullout. If I can't find prefab Turnouts I just use pre built T.O. s leave a blank space and drop the prebuilt T.O. in place. THANKS TRAINCHASER
@BillYo414 posted:Did you build all your switches or do you transition the third rail to match the average third rail of Ross/Atlas/Whoever switches? That looks stunning!
No most of my switches are on the other side of the layout and are code 148, I think.
See the difference in rail size.
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I've followed several threads about Hand laid rail, what tool, or tools, do you use to install rail spikes??
@Mike CT posted:I've followed several threads about Hand laid rail, what tool, or tools, do you use to install rail spikes??
At least 1 if not 2 track gauges are required!
90% of my spikes were inserted manually using good needlenose pliers to hold and drive the spikes. Anywhere that this was complicated by harder ties or around switches, pre-drilled holes for inserting spikes.
I use a series of four rail gauge bars so as to guarantee smooth cosmetic curves.
Awhile back Steve from Ross would sell his frogs separately. (if you are using tall rail of course)
The little I have done is with needle nose pliers, they work great with the flat sided spikes. Micromark I think still sells a tool that has cutouts on the plier to better grip the spikes. Kadee used to have this stapler that would spike both sides of the track to the tie with one shot (I think it only worked with like code 100 and below), I doubt they still have that, IDK if it even worked right.
What about building switch's for 3 rail ? I've had no luck finding any info on this let alone where to start.
@mwb posted:Build the same as 2 rail and add in what you need for center pick up...built in place code 148 curved switch
Thanks. That's what i thought would work. Now if i can remember what code Gar Graves rail is.
Gargraves, Ross and Atlas 3-rail track are all code 215.
