has anyone upgraded an early challenger to ps2?

It should be pretty straightforward.

You put the tach reader and tach tape on one motor only.

Loads of room in the tender for the PS-2 boards.

Rod

thanks for the reply Rod, would any sound file do the job>?

Many sound files exist for that locomotiove.  You should load the most recent.

Yes, I did one several years ago.  There are 2 issues as I remember:

1. Part of the body at the socket for the plug from the tenbder had to be cut away or ground away with a Moto-Tool to accommodate the new socket and I had to be careful because, as I remember, there were a couple of spots on the socket that could short to the frame.

2. Smoke unit:  The original smoke unit was defective and MTH replaced it under warranty.  The new unit has a slightly different shape and, after much aguish, we found that as the two sets of wheel flexed on rises in the track, the flywheel rubbed the smoke unit.  So there was a difference in the smoke unit when I upgraded from the original.  There was no guidance on the smoke unit and PS2.  The smoke unit I upgraded had to heaters in series that I had to rewire in parallel, or maybe vice versa.. I don't remember which.

I used the BigBoy sound file because no Challenger file was then available.  Sounds great--has a fine whistle.

Loco as upgraded is excellent.

RJR,

thanks for the suggestions, they are very helpful. As far as I know the smoke unit isn't a problem and I know exactly what you mean about cutting  the frame out to accomodate the interface board for the teather. I've been reading a lot of threads about the lack of PS 2 upgrade kits and how hard it is to get one, so this may all be for nothing and my poor engine will become half of a bookend a very nice bookend though. Love  the sound of bigboy, the double chuff and the throaty whistle is like no other, funny, I was thinking of using that  file instead of the challenger ones available now, here's hoping.

Joe, my Challenger had no sound.  With sound, it was PS-1.  If you look at another ongoig thread on PS smoke units, GGG has described the smoke unit that was in the Challenger.  Not clear in his description is that one of the 2 wires must be relocated to the other side of the board, to feed the other side of the parallel connection.

RJR and Chris,

    Really like this forum the info and interest you guys show is great. I fully understand what you are saying about the smoke unit, I did a couple of upgrades 5 years ago for other people and recall the smoke unit issue with PS 1 engines, wasn't exactly sure what to do, but from your threads I remember how to alter the smoker and wire the elements in parallel. I recall the "diode" issue too, I think I wound up putting a piece of friction tape over them, rather than cutting the slot any deeper. Thanks so much for the help, if only  MTH can come through with the kits, I decided to  go with PS 2, its tried and proven, rather than chance the latest and greatest PS 3.  My biggest concern with the RK Challenger was room enough for the wiring in the boiler section and that it could move freely w/o catching on the wires. It gives me confidence knowing other like you have done this conversion.  Thanks.

Joe

Marty, thanks for the reply, to tell the truth I am considering using a big boy sound file. I know I'll catch **** from the prototypical crowd, but my son is nuts over the big  boy sounds and this engine is for him. As always any advice is always appreciated.

Joe

I rarely use the smoke, but I think it does puff in sync with the drivers.

Joe you will never get bad words from me.  I am a fan of doing whatever you want as it is your train.  FYI, the Imperial Big Boy from a few years ago has a killer sound file and it was running as a passenger extra.

I admire the super scale layouts of today and know what it takes to build them.  Myself, I am a toy train guy and can live with situations like yours very well.  Enjoy yourself and have fun.

marty, just got done previewing the Imperial BB on youtube, you're right the sound is fantastic, that one will deffinitely be my download, just need the parts now. A friend of mine says he has the jim barrett dvd on upgrades of ps 2, will be a refresher course for me.  nice to know there are knowledgeable people i can contact via this forum in case i get stuck. thanks again to all.

joe geiser

Jim Barrett did a great job on that and he made things very easy to follow.  We are very lucky to have guys like Jim Barrett and Barry to give good advice. 

I had to upgrade a S2 turbine that had the restricted port for the 10 pin femail PCB.  I did not want to grind, so I moved the back bottom diode to the the top.  I then cut the back of the PCB off (the smaller portion that protrudes with the last diode) with nipers (Scored it with a razor then nipped it off).  There is plenty of room on the top for the diode.  The first diode doesn't interfere.  This was a simple fix and much easier than grinding.  I also found that the spacer provided to raise the PCB doesn't work well with the location of the diodes on the current PCB.  G

One other issue is tracing down all the lights and determining what is a 1.5V bulb, what is 6V off a Constant voltage board (and can be used with the PS-2), and what is off track voltage and 18V.

Normally for Steam, the head lights and reverse light are 1.5V off the PS-1 board.  Most other lights are 6V off a Constant Voltage board or two.  Or 18 volts off track power like the PS-1 smoke unit is.

Remember the PS-2 lighting has a separate board ground, and you can not allow a light that is grounded to the frame to be connected to the PS-2 light circuit.

On the Class A I did, you need to trace all the pickup leads and wires in the shell/frame.  For the Class A the headlight was on a CV board that was hidden at the front of the engine in the frame.  The CV in the shell only controlled the fire box, cab light and markers.

One of the shortfalls of the steam kits is that engine lighting is limited to a head light because of the wiring harness and the PS-2 board in the tender.  You can have headlight control, but all other lighting is off the CV board or track power with no DCS control over it.  G

O yeah Friend Must go for the PS2 Because it more powerful and full of features your really enjoy working with it so go for it...

 _____________________

quote:

"I cut the protruding tab after I move the diode, ensuring I did not disturb and traces.

Hope this helps".  G  

Hi G,

Your post and pics were extremely helpful, after reading I felt I could do the whole job w/o further instruction, especially liked the diode swap instead of grinding the frame idea. As I mentioned above I got this in kit form someone who took it all apart in an attempt to fix it, he lost interest and I  got a free train, I mention this because I did not see a CV board so maybe thats MIA and I'll have to replace it. I plan on putting this think together first, to find out what all is missing, so when I order the kit I can get the parts needed. Question, if the headlight is replaced with PS 2 can't I replace the marker lights, cab and or firebox glow lamps with 1.5 volt bulb and draw off the headlight tap? would make things easier. Thanks again  for your help

Regards,

Joe

adam stuart,

thanks for the words of encouragement, PS 2 it is!

Regards,

Joe

Joe, my Challenger was a no sound model.  I do not recall there being any CV board.

All the PS-2 lights are 6V.  The jumpers for LED markers are something less and pulsed DC.  The board with the kit goes in the tender, so there is only one lead for the head light.  You can run 2 bulbs off the circuit.  Usually there is a CV board in the shell if there are cab lights, number board or markers and fire box glow.

You can put in 18V lights from track power, they will just always be on even if you shut the engine down.  G

G,

    Took a closer look at the marker lights, they are back lit with a regular bulb (I'm guessing) shining through a piece of green plastic mounted over the two holes in the boiler front. No lights in the cab or firebox. If all goes well with the upgrade may takcle putting  in some extra lighting, can never have enough lights.

Joe

RJR,

    You are right, no CV board, I checked the boiler shell and marker lights are lit with general back lighting, not seperate bulbs. I got a hold of the box and this engine only had a whistle, model # was RK 1107 from 1996, I think this was the first articulated engine MTH made. Sure would like to breath some life into it again.

Joe

That's the loco I have.  When converted, it's an excellent runner.  Worth the effort.  I do recommend the BigBoy sound file (if it's the same as then), since you get the articulated sound (8 chuffs/rev & going in & out of sync) with a great whistle.

I think this was the first O-Gauge articulated other than custom made locos.

One suggestion:  take care in inserting the bulb into the headlight, to make sure it's forward and stays there during reassembly.

Thanks to all your good advice and pics I was able to start the upgrade. Smoke unit has been modified, fan and elements are good, gutted the tender ( wasn't much in there)installed a charging port, all I need now is the PS 2 upgrade kit. While I'm waiting I decided I like the look of lighted number boards can anyone help me get a part number or tell me where to look on MTH's site. I have included a pic of a similar engine with the board attached to and just above the existing marker light. If I can't buy one from MTH I can make one from brass sheet stock, but would need dimensions of an actual # board. So if one of you has something similar to the pic I would appreciate the dimensions

Regards,

Joe